Also plug in the block heater,any heat will help
Did you by chance test the glow plug system while you have some plugs out?
Enthusiast
Also plug in the block heater,any heat will help
Did you by chance test the glow plug system while you have some plugs out?
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Enthusiast
If it's not misting any fuel out of the glow plug holes as others mentioned, I don't think that's my first priority. The plugs and relay have maybe a dozen starts on them.
Enthusiast
checking the glow system and block heater are just as important as getting fuel.
it will not start without heat,it will not start without fuel.
Kinda a symbiotic situation.You need both to get the engine to run.
Why not rule out one of them if you haven't figured out the fuel by now with everyone's help at least you could report back the 8 glow-plugs are good and the glow-plugs are getting power.
At least you would be one step closer
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Enthusiast
Got back to the truck and removed the stop solenoid cover. So how does it look inside?
Looks fine to me. And solenoid itself,
Ok too. Plunger pulls in solid with power at the terminals but nothing when I put ground on the housing. I think there is some corrosion between the terminal and housing where a screw bolts it down. In the IP I didn't hear it click as firmly. Will clean it up and try again.
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Be very sure when you reinstall the Top of the IP (Solenoid) that the linkage fits in correctly.
Activating the solenoid should make a distinct CLICK
If the solenoid is not in correctly the engine will go to FULL FUEL and NO WAY TO SHUT IT OFF ....!!!!!!!
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
The metal filings stuck to the solenoid don't look very promising...
Looks like a lot of debris inside the pump as well
Look at the glow plug system yet?
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Enthusiast
I'm glad you came to this site for help. A bunch of VERY experienced folks here to help you get your rig going.
I've been around this style IP all my life. (A version of it is used on the John Deer 4020, six cylinder vs. 8 cylinder, but the same basic unit.) If it were mine, I would do three things now.
1. Change that shut off solenoid. They aren't that expensive. Heed Robyn's advice about installing correctly
2. Follow the procedure to check for fuel at the glow plug holes as described above. I agree that it could take a few cranking sessions to achieve this. I might pull a couple more glow plugs just to ease the load on your started/batteries and to make sure it doesn't start quite yet.
3. If the above works and you get evidence of fuel at the glow plug holes: Stop, Check all of your glow plugs now as described above. You need to do it sometime anyway! I hear what you are saying about being almost new. Like Casey, I also have had to change all 8 at one time due to accidental extended glow time.
Keep us in the loop, we want to see you succeed!
Dave
Dave, N9LOV
Member #242
Dave's Diesels:
Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
'97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
'02 GMC
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This is also a perfect opportunity to confirm the fuel shutoff solenoid works. Just pull the wire off and confirm the fuel stops pumping out of the glow plug holes.Originally Posted by DieselDavy
The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!
If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?
Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Yukon....Good call on the metal filings.
IF IT WERE MY CALL.....I WOULD GET THAT PUMP TO A QUALIFIED SHOP and have it looked at.
Where all the crap came from..... ?????
May be the IP ate itself....Possible lift pump failure......If there is crud in the filter you need to figure out where it came from.
The IP is constantly sending fuel back to the tank....So the entire system can be fouled.
With metal in the IP....THE STUFF LIKELY traveled to the injectors too.....
I WOULD NOT even try a restart....Find out where the junk came from...Clean up the mess...Flush the system and get the IP and the squirts in order....Then move on...
Check the filter and see if there is junk in there....
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
That's not metal, or at least doesn't feel like it. For not being open at least the 13 years I've had it and who knows how long before, I thought it looked ok. Anyway, I now know what the solenoid clicking should sound like and maybe there was just a weak ground. I'll clean that up, put it back, and see what happens. Any danger if it starts with 3 glow plugs out?
Enthusiast
I doubt that it will start.I would bet hard earned money on the fact that yes those are metal particles just by the way the magnet has attracted them.Plus the orange sludge doesn't belong inside an Injection pump.It should be spotless inside.Anything you see inside the injection pump has already been forced inside you injectors
If it didn't start before taking the cover off the pump,removing it and replacing it would have not achieved anything other than seeing the crud inside.
You need to follow the troubleshooting tips you have been given to try and find out why it will not start.
If it was my truck and i saw that pump apart...
I would...
Step 1 remove pump and replace with a know good used one, or have it rebuilt.Maybe pull the injectors for cleaning and testing if you are sending the pump to a shop
Step 2 while waiting for the pump rebuild clean the fuel system.
Step 3 check and verify the glow plug system including checking each glow plug,at this point there should be no glow plugs in the motor
Step 4 check and verify the block heater works.Charge and check the health of your batteries
Step 5 Plug in the working block heater, install good IP and injectors
Step 6 crank until mist is seen coming from glow plug holes,if you haven't changed the pump double check the shut off solenoid works by disconnecting the power wire to the solenoid and crank to verify there is no new fuel coming out the glow plug holes
Step 7 replace the glow plugs and start the truck
That would be my course of action.
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Just a warning.....Do your initial testing with all the glow plugs out.....Spin the engine with the plugs out until you get fuel mist....Disconnect the power to the IP
Crank the engine ...YOU SHOULD NOT SEE ANY FUEL MIST.
IF YOU SEE FUEL MIST WITH THE POWER OFF OF THE IP....THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE SOLENOID NOT CONNECTED CORRECTLY
Trying to run the engine will result in the engine running away and destroying itself...../Getting the cover back on has to be just right.....
If the fuel stops when power is removed...Replace the glow plugs and go for a start.
RH side plugs are easy to get to...
Remove RH front wheel/tire....Unsnap the rubber flap on the inner fender..
Plugs are easy to reach through the hole in the fender....EXCEPT #8
#8 MUST BE REACHED FROM UNDER THE RIG......Not bad though...
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
It started fine a few months ago. Cleaning the terminal and ground to the stop solenoid and replacing it is the first thing I would try. Making sure that works is a whole lot simpler than removing and replacing the pump.
Enthusiast
Go ahead
You be you and we will keep trying to give you advice,till all has been given
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Enthusiast
Thanks.
Enthusiast
looks like a long story...
better make a bunch of popcorn
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Enthusiast
Got back to the truck today. I see all the fuel in IP as pictured in post #44 has disappeared. Did it drain away somewhere or just evaporate? Only had a piece of cardboard over it.
Anyway, put back the IP cover and stop solenoid after cleaning the grounding, and bolted back on the air intake. Went to start it and for the first time in 6 months it felt like it was trying to start. So I put back the glow plugs I had previously removed, and tried again. After a half dozen tries, it finally started up and in a few seconds was purring like a cat.
Thanks a lot for those that suggested I test the glow plugs, remove ALL the glow plugs and crank it over, or even to remove the IP itself and get it checked. (sarcasm) I prefer to do the simplest and most logical things first, and a stop solenoid issue would be at the top of the list for a crank no start. Unlikely that ALL glow plugs would fail at once, and even if they did, there should still be some inclination of it starting. And unlikely an IP issue when it ran fine previously. If it had I problem, I'd think performance would have deteriorated or the engine would have shown some smoke. Anyway, thanks for the advice about the stop solenoid.
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