If I get the facts right, you have new IP @ 117k, & have relocated the FSD to the wheel well, and now have 135k. If its a new pump then internals should be OK, but FSD could be suspect even after this low mileage, sorry to say (but that may not be the culprit).
I'd start w/all grounds in engine compartment, then under dash (incl. to PCM). Undo them, brighten them up w/wire brush, & tighten using a no-ox grease. Sometimes an internally corroded (can't see it from the outside) battery cable is the culprit, so if you suspect that you'll need to bypass or replace the cable; usually you can see some small amount of corrosion on the copper that is exposed, or at least a bulge or crinkle in the insulation a few inches from the exposed end.
If that doesn't get it, go to connections:
Did you make you own extension harness? If yes, I'd check all elements to see you're gettin full contact, all connections are 100%, etc.
Undo & check 15-pin connector by fuel filter, make sure all pins are clean & seating.
Then (you'll be glad you've got remote FSD now) undo FSD from heatsink & remove plastic caps from back (2ea.) & tighten the 1/4" nuts (finger tight using a bare socket then 1/8th turn); reinstall caps & FSD & check starting.
Good luck.
\'95 P30 Motorhome 16,500gvwr, 26,500mi<br />New Ipump @ 25k, boost, EGT, homemade remote FSD cooler