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Thread: Please check my timing gear parts list and questions...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Polson, Montana
    Posts
    115

    Exclamation

    I am getting ready to replace my timing chain with a set of the timing gears from Diesel services. Is the following list of items complete with everything I need?

    1.Dual Idler Gear Drive from DSG Canada
    2.Timing cover gasket set from DSG Canada
    3.Harmonic balancer
    4.Water pump
    5.Front crankshaft seal seal
    6.Harmonic balancer puller
    7.RTV sealant
    8.Thread sealant

    Questions:

    1. I also want to replace the crankshaft pulley, but I can not locate a part number anywhere. Does anyone have the number??

    2. Am I correct in my thinking that the chain replacement can be completed without removing the injection pump and manifold?

    3. All sources I have indicate you should scribe a mark on the injection pump flange and front cover to align the injection pump, before removing the cover. Is this the mark that is already there, indicating whether or not the timing is advanced/retarded???? Or, is this an additional scribe I need to make??

    4. What sealant should I use on the front crankshaft seal seat??? RTV??

    Thanks for any help!
    Mike
    1985 K20 Suburban 4X4 <a href=\"http://www.karensphotos.com/suburban\" target=\"_blank\">www.karensphotos.com/suburban</a><br />6.2L \"J\" code<br />TH400 3-speed Auto<br />3.73 rear

  2. #2
    catmandoo Guest

    Post

    list looks pretty complete and yes you can change gears without removing the pump and there is a scribe mark from the factory but if the timing has been changed it could be off to one side or the other if so just make a new one,as for the pully does it have the dampner style,i don't believe they did.my 84 didn't that i remember.guess you got my curiosity up now i'm gonna have to go look.haven't driven it in about 2 yrs.and i didn't use any sealer on my seal,but if you want to the rtv is fine don't use too much though. also a little trick when i do t-chains i will drain rad remove lower hose ,pull out the bolts on the waterpump just the big 15mm headed ones on the sides,these go into the waterjacket so water will run out of them,jack the back end up and let set awhile then when you let it back down the water level will be below the threads,to keep water from running into the pan while you have the front cover off.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Scappoose, OR, USA
    Posts
    117

    Post

    Mike,

    You will need a tool or really long bolt to re-install the damper pulley. The bolt that holds it in place is not long enough to grab the pulley and draw it onto the end of the shaft. Do not tap the pulley on with a hammer. This is hard as hell on the center main bearing that has the thrust bearing.(If your center main bearing doesn't already have cracks in the webbing then there is no reason to **** it off by beating on it with a hammer.)

    You will need to get a longer bolt that you can use to get the pulley on far enough where the stock bolt will work. The thread size is something like a 14mm fine thread. The other option is to get a short bolt of the same thread size and weld a longer bolt to the other end by placing the bolt heads back to back. If you have an old 6.2L block, you can use the bolt out of it. If not try your local hardware store. I had a hard time finding the 14mm fine thread. However, the 14mm fine thread is a common oil pan drain plug and you should be able to get that at NAPA. If you still have no luck, send me an email and I can loan you the tool I welded together. I don't use it that often.

    TimK
    85\' GMC Sub, 4x4, 3/4Ton, 6.2L Diesel<br />67\' Land Rover Series 2A, 2.5L Diesel<br />00\' VW Beetle, 1.9L Diesel TDI <br />90\' Range Rover - soon to be Diesel<p>So what do you do with gelled Diesel fuel? Smear it on toast and have another cup of coffee until it gets warmer outside.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
    Posts
    304

    Post

    Originally posted by mdregister:
    1. I also want to replace the crankshaft pulley, but I can not locate a part number anywhere. Does anyone have the number??
    There is a pulley for sale in the Classified Ads section at the top of the page. Look through the parts section it has been a little while sense it was posted. The seller will probably make a good deal with you or at the very least give you the part number and he also has pictures of it.
    •1982 GMC K2500 Cummins 4bt/NV4500/NP208

  5. #5
    catmandoo Guest

    Post

    tim ya thats one thing i forgot,i have a special tool for installing balancers,got it from snap-on years ago and it works great and comes with about 6 american thread ends and 6 metric ends,to fit pretty much anything you might be working on.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Monte Vista, Colorado
    Posts
    139

    Post

    Make sure you have the instructions that are supposed to come with the gear drive set. They were not included when I purchased mine and I didn't know they existed.

    I went to the local GM dealer's parts counter and had them look up the PN for the harmonic balancer for my engine, then ordered it from GM parts direct, total cost was under $100 IIRC. As a side note, the PN they gave me matched the PN that was on the back of my old balancer.

    It is a good idea to use tap on the bolt holes to clean out the old sealer.

    Some engine assembly lube on the timing gears won't hurt.

    If you plan on power upgrades in the future, now might be a good time to install a higher volume water pump.
    1983 K5 Blazer, bored 6.2, 4911, 6.5TD heads and injectors, Gear drive, Banks system, Dual t-stats w/ high flow water pump, D60, 14BFF, Rear Disks, 4.10s, 37\" Swampers, Warn M8274-50, Bad paint and almost no interior

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Polson, Montana
    Posts
    115

    Post

    Thanks for the replies everyone:

    WTHIF-you have mail.

    1. Is there any reason a new (not remanufactured) harmonic dampner would not be ok from my local parts place?? They have a new unit for the same price as the oem.

    2. I have a balancer puller/installer with the 14mm x1.5 attachment. Isn't this the right one for the balancer?

    3. I can not seem to locate a "better" water pump than the OEM. I was going to go with a new unit from my part supplier for this as well. Any other sources?
    1985 K20 Suburban 4X4 <a href=\"http://www.karensphotos.com/suburban\" target=\"_blank\">www.karensphotos.com/suburban</a><br />6.2L \"J\" code<br />TH400 3-speed Auto<br />3.73 rear

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