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Thread: Calling anyone with body work experience

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Hudson, WI
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    Default Calling anyone with body work experience

    So, today I was going to start a little project - remove fender flares, sand down below the trim, and coat it with bedliner. Anyways, I started to remove the flares, and other than the screws around the bottom edge of the flare, it seems there are little tabs that go through the fender and attach with a nut on the inside. I can't seem to figure out where these nuts are...are they under the inner fender well or what?

    Here is a picture of my truck to show the type of flares I am talking about.


    Anyone have any insight on the subject of getting these flares off?
    James

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
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    13,586

    Arrow

    They should be held on with 3M double sided tape. Nothing a little laquer thinner or acetone won't handle. They should go back on easily with the same method.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Little Neck,NY,USA
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    Default

    From the factory the flares are bolted on, you need to remove the fender to get at the nuts. To be honest, I pulled a fender to change a flare but I didn't take notice if it could be done by just removing the fender liner.
    On the Suburban you need to remove the interior side panels to remove the rear flares.
    William

    97 Chevy Tahoe 2Dr 6.5 Kennedy Exhaust Pipes w/Homemade Resonator and Flowmaster Muffler, Turbo Tech intercooler and Kennedy/Westers computer
    01 Sunline 2363 Travel Trailer

  4. #4
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    Jul 2006
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    Hudson, WI
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    Default

    wow...pulled a fender? GAY.

    3M tape or bolts...I don't know who to believe, haha.
    James

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    IL
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    242

    Smile

    pull the fender to get to the bolts and most still have the 3-m tape also best of both worlds have fun
    2003 CHEVY 4500 DURAMAX/ALLISON 14'
    SERVICE CRANE BODY 16,500 LBS 14.5 MPG
    1998 K3500 SRW CREW CAB TRANSPLANTED 6.5TD ELECTROINC INTO, HEATH COMPUTER, 40+HP INJECTORS, 4" EXHAUST, VACUUM ELEMTINATOR ON TURBO,UPGRADED COOLING WITH ALL GM PARTS,NO VACUUM PUMP, SST OIL COOLER LINES MADE LOCALY FRACTION OF THE COST, 3" TOURBO/BOOST GAUSGE ALL IN ONE, ADDED GEAR DRIVE GREAT HELP WITH STARTING TIME DOESN'T JUMP AROUND ANY MORE, INTERCOOLER 3" INLET AND OUTLET COOLER 12x24x4, ALSO ADDED MANDEL BENT CROSS OVER, HAD TRUCK REPAINTED AND OPUT ON ALUM FLAT BED

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Hudson, WI
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by redbird2
    pull the fender to get to the bolts and most still have the 3-m tape also best of both worlds have fun
    oh lord...that does not sound fun at all.

    how about the rear ones? fender liner or what?
    James

  7. #7

    Default leave em alone!

    Your truck looks great now!
    I worked in a Chevy body shop in the early 90s. These flares will eat your hide to remove the set.
    There is nothing to gain by spraying bed liner under the flares.
    Sidehackbob
    78 93" flh
    98 80" flt
    93 K2500 6.5 TD auto K&N, straight pipe, 276K
    78 K25 292+.080 ported headers 4bbl mucho rusto
    79 F150 2wd 460 balanced ported, performer, 780 Vac, headers, duals, jacobs, mucho rusto 225K

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hudson, WI
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sidehackbob
    Your truck looks great now!
    I worked in a Chevy body shop in the early 90s. These flares will eat your hide to remove the set.
    There is nothing to gain by spraying bed liner under the flares.
    well, i can see rust starting under the rear ones as it is, so i figured i'd remove them, and fix what rust is there before it spreads
    James

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
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    Default

    For the rear you remove the inner fender to get at the bolts, for the front remove the fender itself.

    It may be futile however, so far as I know, nothing short of new sheet metal will stop rust, once it starts.
    1994 K1500 Silverado ext cab short box
    stock L56 6.5 TD, F intake, 4L80E, 3.73 gears
    10149599 block, D-Tech PMD on 5288 pump
    Goodyear Wrangler silent armour 265 75 R16 E Pro Grade
    Bushwacker fender flares
    410,000 km

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,310

    Default

    Hello

    Rust is nasty, especially if you live in salt country.

    Remove the flares as has been described above.

    Use copious quantities of warm soapy water to get rid of the salt.

    Follow up by removing any and all loose rust and then treat with more soapy water and a rinse.

    Now treat all the rusty areas with a product called "Rust Mort"

    This stuff is great. It soaks into the rust itself and turns the rust into a Black Oxide that is paintable.

    If there is any orange or untreated rust it will continue to spread if not treated.

    The big issue is to treat the area once the rust is killed with a material that will not allow further penetration of the salt laden spray during the winter.



    Hope this helps

    Robyn
    Last edited by Robyn; 05-12-2007 at 11:54. Reason: addition
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Good grief, you gotta pull the fenders to get those flares off? I thought these trucks were made by chevy, -not ford! Ok, rant over......

    I'll second Robyn on the rust mort, -it is great stuff, -and really works. I resurrected a '73 chevy cab (and we all know there was lots of rust to deal with), and used that stuff in areas where it wasn't practical to cut and weld patch panels, it worked excellent. As extra proof that it works, I know where that truck is today, -and there isn't any sign of rust-related paint problems, -and it was done over ten years ago.

    Another product that I used to seal up the treated/repaired spots was PPG "DP" epoxy primer. It ain't the cheapest stuff, but it adheres and seals very good. And because it is a catalyzed product, it is very durable. Not that it matters, but when using the PPG epoxy primer, no sealer is required for top-coating or base-coating, -it's that good.

    The newer version of the stuff is called DP/LF. It isn't quite as good as the old stuff, but is still some of the best stuff you can buy.

    My .02
    1994 K2500, 6.5, NV-4500, 4.10's, T-Master, GM4 at 18, Cranked DB2 at 5 BTDC, 599 block .020" over, decked .010", ARP studs, 18:1 Mahle marine pistons, SCAT 9000 steel crank, HV oil pump. Dual-stat/130GPM, C2 boost/pyro, 3"x4" Exh, ATA I/C in process.
    NO MORE DS4, NO MORE PMD'S! I RELOCATED MY PMD TO THE TRASHCAN!

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