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Thread: Brake Rotor Removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    69

    Default Brake Rotor Removal

    Need to remove front brake rotors (1994 K2500, 8600 GVW, 8 lug wheels) for resurfacing. Brakes look more like what manual describes as a K3500 style. Seems like hub will have to be pulled off to access rotor. Anyone seen this style brake?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    302

    Default Check with whomever will resurface the rotor

    Yes, your front brakes are set up the same as a K3500.

    I know most, if not all, Chevy/GMC dealerships in my area can resurface rotors with removing them from the truck. They have a lathe they can use with your truck up on a lift. The dealerships went this route to cut down on the labor cost involved in removing and reinstalling rotors, especially on trucks like our 3/4- and 1-ton variety. I'm fairly certain we even have a few Pep Boys shops that can turn rotors in the same manner.

    If you remove the rotor from the truck, some shops require it to still be attached to the bearing hub and others may require the rotor only. I'd call ahead to whomever you plan on performing this work.


    Andy
    1994 K1500 Blazer: 6.5L TD/4L80E: 'F' intake: Kennedy chip: Kennedy 3.5" exhaust: Heath Turbo-Master: 2/0 battery cables: Lubrication Specialist oil cooler lines: Fumoto drain valve: Amsoil dual bypass remote oil filter kit: Fluidampr: 137k miles

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Like 93 Burrito said. My truck is the same way. You have to remove the axle nut, caliper, then I belive it is 4 bolts on the backside of the knuckle and the hub and rotor assembly will come off. Then press out the whell studs and the rotor comes off the hub. Or if they can be machined there are some places that have on the car lathes. I have one at my shop. And I am a small 3 bay shop. So you could call around and see if some shop in your area has one. But if they need to be replaced a machine shop shouldn't charge to much to swap rotors for you. And make sure when you are done you torque the axle nut. I don't remember the exact number but I thnk it is around 200 ft.lbs..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    302

    Default

    4 bolts on the backside of the knuckle: torque to 133 ft-lbs
    Axle nut gets torqued to 160 ft-lbs


    Andy
    1994 K1500 Blazer: 6.5L TD/4L80E: 'F' intake: Kennedy chip: Kennedy 3.5" exhaust: Heath Turbo-Master: 2/0 battery cables: Lubrication Specialist oil cooler lines: Fumoto drain valve: Amsoil dual bypass remote oil filter kit: Fluidampr: 137k miles

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zionsville, IN
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Man, if you are just having the rotors turned, find a place to do them on the truck. If the hubs have not been off before, you are looking at a big job to get those things out. Those 4 bolts will be rust welded in, and the hub itself takes a long time and a lot of PB Blaster to wiggle it loose.
    Jeffrey Todd
    _ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _
    '96 6.5TD GMC Suburban 2500 4x4 - 300,000 miles, JK remote FSD, Dual Thermostats

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,319

    Default

    The trucks are notorious for have warping problems and generally resurfacing is not the answer.

    To get the rotor off is a snap.
    Remove the wheel
    Remove the large center axle nut.
    Remove the caliper and tie it up out out of the way.
    Remove the bolts on the backside of the hub, Use a 15mm 6 point socket as these bolts can be rounded off and then the job gets real interesting.

    Now the hub and rotor assembly has to slide out of the housing.
    This can be nasty if the thing has coroded.
    Use a large slide hammer with a three legged foot that fastens to the lug studs.

    Some good bangs should see the assembly slide out.

    Be sure to keep the seal assemblies in place (clean and lube well before replacing the hub)

    Also clean the bore of the hub well and place neverseaze in the bore when you replace the bearing assembly.

    Now take some time and examine the bearing, if its noisy toss it now and save the grief later.

    The assembly can be placed on a block of wood and the studs removed with a large club and a brass or aluminum 1 inch rod.

    Toss the old rotor and clean the hub flange and replace the rotor and then the studs in the reverse order.

    Once the studs are back in be sure they are seated tight.

    After the assembly is all finished and the lugs are tight, run a few miles then recheck the lugs to be sure they have not worked a little and come loose.

    The studs can wiggle the last few thousandths of an inch during that first drive and this needs to be paid attention to.

    ***Note **** all jacking and blocking precautions to be observed *****

    Good luck

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Russell, Ohio
    Posts
    280

    Default

    Robyn
    Thanks for the detailed procedure! I'm going to have to do that first thing this spring. My rotors are so warped the thing bucks and jumps like a brhama bull when I apply the breaks. I've been dreading this job, but with the steps in hand, I'm in business. Thanks again for the insight!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,319

    Default

    Happy to help

    This is not a really big deal. Did one a few weeks ago on a friends 94 Burb.
    Yessssss they do hop and jump around for sure. Its a nasty trade mark of these rigs

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Use a 15mm 6 point socket as these bolts can be rounded off and then the job gets real interesting.

    Good luck
    That's for sure, had to drill one out once, PITA x 2. You can soak with PB blaster or your favorite penetrating oil for a couple days before. Hard to get at though. If the bolts with the 15mm heads are OK then it is an easy job, just time consuming. Try to clean out the rust and dirt real good before putting the socket on. I broke two 15mm sockets on one job I did.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    156

    Default Rotors

    Just a thought,but I found rotors very inexpensive to buy as I had a lack of rear brake problem that was burning up my rotors at a high rate.I bought a set of slotted/drilled rotors in the end and so far so good.I believe it was under 100bucks for both of the oem style at local auto parts.For the amount of work to get off I figured a better route
    98 c/c l/b 4x4 dually 6.5td i/c,boost cntrl,boch h/f,4in straight ex,boost/pyro guages &h/f air

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Fort McMurray, AB,CA
    Posts
    70

    Default

    My suggestion is to replace the rotors with new and not the cheap jobber line. I have had several of those come back in a short time frame with warping problems. I think it has to do with the design of them, how the studs pull on the inside of the rotor and the hub flange is on the outside.
    Joshua R. L. Certified Journeyman Automotive Service Technician

    1997 K1500 6.5T, DSG gears 'n' girdles 364k
    1997 K2500 5.7, 428k
    1999 K2500 6.5T, 514K
    1961 Apache 10 SWB panel, work in progress

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,319

    Default

    Well for whatever its worth.
    My Gm's have all had rotor problems and I have replaced them with the Chinese made stuff sold by NAPA and have never had one of those start giving issues to date.

    The first 95 Burb I bought warped the rotors within the warranty and were replaced by GM. They lasted until the warranty was over then went away again.
    I bought the replacement stuff from the NAPA store and never had another issue.

    Just my experience with this issue.

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    3,093

    Cool

    I've got the same bucking on my Tahoe, and I've been needing to replace my rotors as well. This thread will help me out a bunch.

    I've been sort of dreading the job a little, as this will be my first IFS 4x4 rotor replacement. I'm used to replacing rotors on the 2wd trucks, which is much easier.

    Thanks guys!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

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