Moderator-Towing Forum
Drilled/slotted rotors
I put new brakes on the front (rotors, pads, calipers, hoses) of my Tahoe around 10,000 miles ago. The rotors are warping again. I'm thinking of trying some higher quality drilled and slotted rotors, to see if they will last longer.
Any suggestions on where to buy, what kind to buy?
Thanks,
Casey
1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter
Enthusiast
You should look at new calipers instead. I imagine you are already running vented, because that is the way to go. Slotted rotors came to be as a way to vent the build up of gases between the pad and rotor. They have been obsoleted by newer pad material, although are still used with extremely soft, aggressive pads. Cross-drilled rotors will increase your stopping distance quite a bit because all of the holes significantly reduce the swept area of the rotor. Additionally, the holes reduce the strength of the rotor. Their main purpose is to allow for the largest possible pad and to keep the sprung weight down.
Basically, if you continue to warp rotors, check other areas before going to a rotor that will decrease your braking performance.
Jeffrey Todd
_ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _
'96 6.5TD GMC Suburban 2500 4x4 - 300,000 miles, JK remote FSD, Dual Thermostats
Proud Deplorable
Are they truly warped or do they have "fat spots" where pad material has been deposited on the rotors? I burned through brakes on my LD 2500 in about 20,000 miles but never had a warped rotor.
The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!
If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?
Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510
Moderator-Towing Forum
Good question. I have a pulsing sensation on my brake pedal and the steering wheel shakes a bit when applying the brakes. I haven't checked for sure, but I was assuming warped rotors would be the only culprit.Originally Posted by JohnC
Casey
1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter
Proud Deplorable
Some pads will transfer material to the disk. the longer they sit without moving the worse it gets. The same process promotes corrosion on the disk which gives a high spot.
The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!
If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?
Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510
Moderator-Towing Forum
Hmmm.....I drive my rig around 45 miles every day. Doesn't have much time to sit.
1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter
Enthusiast
rotors
I used Applied Rotor Technology rotors on my 94 6.5TD Blazer, with good results -- long life, etc. Cryo-stabilized, etc. If they're still in business, they make to order, so it might take a couple of weeks. Performance Friction pads worked well.
My newer gas 2-door Tahoe has Powerslot rotors, seem to be fine too.
HTH, FWIW.
--
Dave
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