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Thread: k20 suburban 12 inch lift

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    3

    Default k20 suburban 12 inch lift

    Hi I'm new here, but I've owned a few 6.9 idi trucks a 7.3 idi and 2 different 1995 p-pumped cummins, still have the 4wd.
    I've just purchased a 1985 suburban 3/4 ton 6.2 with less than 100k on it. I purchased it with the intentions of lifting it. This will be my first time playing with anything but a body lift and I did have a few questions.

    How high can I go without needing new driveshafts made? I have located a few sets of 12" lift springs on craigslist in my pricerange and don't know if thats to much.

    I know at that height i will need a dropped pitman arm, but what about the other steering components?

    Will my stock d44 axles be able to handle 42-44 inch tires and an eventual turbo. I've already turned up fuel a bit less than a 1/4 turn, I had to it, it was really slow.

    What are your experiences with going this high?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    3

    Default stuck then broke

    well I popped the transfer case tonight. I thought it was gear driven, guess I was wrong. Gonna start taking **** apart tommorow. I had a long recovery tonight and alot of body damage so pretty mad at the thing.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    363

    Default

    For what you want to do, you would be best to ditch the current running gear in the Suburban and convert to something stronger. The running gear you've got in the Suburban was just not meant to take the abuse you plan on doing. Take a look at my signature at how a Suburban should have been built.
    1990 ¾ ton 4x4 Chevy Suburban
    -Cummins Diesel - 12 valve - factory rebuilt
    -6 speed bullet proof manual transmission - NV5600
    -Gear Vendors Overdrive
    -Upgraded Holset HX-35 turbo
    -NP205 iron transfer case
    -3.73 gears

    1982 ½ ton Chevy Suburban
    -6.2L diesel - high nickle crack free 1982 block
    -Stans headers
    -Ported heads
    -Timing gear
    -4 speed automatic
    -3.08 gears
    -30 mpg on freeway

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    3

    Default

    So did you have to modify driveshafts to put your np205 in place of the 203? was that something you did before the cummins swap? I'm not trying to spend a whole bunch of money, I'd like to keep everything under 2k. Will a 205 off a 4 speed marry to my trans? I'd like to do the 4 speed to but I don't have the master cyl and clutch laying around and 4 sp. 205 combo is cheap. lots of body damage too. I found 4 inch springs and I can always just get different shackles for the rear. maybe just do that and a 3"body lift. not looking for a bunch of flex, or a decent ride. I just want bullet proof. I'll keep the d44 til it breaks too.

    your suburban sounds like my dodge 2500

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NH & Eastern NY
    Posts
    205

    Default

    I have a 6" HD lift (Superlift) with springs in front, 2 inch add-a-leaf and 4" blocks in the rear on my 83. Drive shafts are stock, but the kit requires dropping the transmission crossmember down and placing a 1 inch spacer between the front driveshaft and transfer case flange. It does require re-locating brake lines with new brackets, a new pitman arm and new steering arm.

    This whole set up is bad for the frame and transfer case. Not to mention that the motor and transmission are tilted at all times. Chewed up many U joints, and this truck was driven pretty easily on the street only. The HD springs have no compliance, so its completely useless off road.

    A 12 inch lift will require much more steering and brake modifications as well as drive shaft mods for extension and clearancing. Don't forget your anti-sway bar(s) too. If you do go for 12" of lift, there is no good way to keep the factory designed geometry. Go with a commercial designed cross over set up.

    If you caused that much carnage already, 44" tires will shell out the axles on it quickly. If it has the original running gear, you have a 10 bolt front axle, and 9.5" semifloating rear 14 bolt.
    2012 Chevy 2500HD ECSB, 6.0L gas, auto, 4x4, LT
    2003 F450, 7.3L PSD, 6 spd stick, 2wd, dump truck
    1983 GMC K2500 pickup - working on a Cummins 5.9L swap
    1987 GMC K3500 Dump, 6.2L diesel, TH400 auto - project plow truck

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