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Thread: Check Engine light

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    5

    Default Thanks for the info and the links

    Thanks. I cleaned the MAF sensor. I also serviced the Air filter while I was in there.
    I Bought some Sea Foam and also some Diesel Kleen.

    I figured I'd try both. Been getting recommendations on both so why not. I drove the truck about 110 miles today pulling a 5th wheel Camper.
    The truck performed fine. Plenty of power and cruised right along
    The check engine light is still on. I figured I'd let it go through a few cycles or what ever it is the computer does and see if the light goes out.
    If it does not I will read the codes again.
    I tried to clear the codes with the code reader I got but it does not seem to do that. It has an "Erase codes" feature but I guess it only erases the codes in the Code reader, not the truck.
    If the light doesn't go out after a few days I will disconnect the batteries and see if that clears the codes.
    Then see what new codes I get when the light comes on.
    Thanks again I will look into the online links.

    BTW I was reading one forum where it said having an aftermarket straight through exhaust like Magna Flow can cause false EGR codes. Is this true?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,586

    Arrow

    You can clear the codes without a code reader, or waiting. Disconnect BOTH Batt - (negative/ground) cables (or all), and connect one of them to a Batt + cable (leaving BOTH negative battery posts/terminals connected to NOTHING, do not short circuit the batteries), connecting only the CABLES together, not the batteries. Leave for 30 minutes to an hour. Reconnect the cables and the codes/light should be clear. Just disconnecting the batteries can take a day(s) to clear the computer.

    I've heard of, but not personally seen that I can recall (I've seen conditions that could have been, but not proved), an "open" exhaust cause EGR issues. Theoretically it is possible, as the expected manifold pressure change may not be sufficient enough to satisfy the computer with less exhaust back pressure. If the Cat is gone, it could be a more likely issue. If you reinstall the original exhaust system and the problem continues, then it isn't the exhaust system.

    The additives may not help with EGR issues, as they leave the cylinders as gas and soot, just like the fuel (which is a problem in the first place). You can remove and clean the EGR valve manually, though.

    Also, make sure you have sufficient vacuum to operate the system (test the vacuum pump/system).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    5

    Default Thanks --- update

    P2563
    Probably a soot-fouled vane position servo, caused by excessive use of a power programmer (excessive fuel, causing excessive soot fouling, Edge is the usual suspect). The dealer (or competent shop with the equipment) can "exercise" the servo and reset the position. At worst, the servo may need replacement. Not the turbo.

    This seems to be the only issue now. I have not found anyone yet to "exercise" the servo. I'll repost when I do.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,059

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Robinson View Post
    I also serviced the Air filter while I was in there.
    Is it a K&N filter? It is rumored that excess filter oil will cause problems with the MAF sensor.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

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