6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

[Robyn]

Be safe

[3and3oneton]

So, I'm back from work and sorting through parts and pieces in more than a little dismay. Turns out the coolant pump backing plate from the 6.2 does not line up with the new water pump, so I had to order that. The dipstick tube off the 6.2 doesn't want to work on this 6.5 either. I haven't quite figured out how the AC compressor and alternator brackets off a 93 bolt up to the engine, I'm hoping when I actually have the compressor and alternator on hand it will make a little more sense. Tomorrow I'll start mocking up the turbo and make sure I understand all that. I'm still waiting on an injection pump and the associated parts and pieces. Unfortunately not a lot of progress to report.

[3and3oneton]

I think I've got the new brackets sorted out. Took them down and had them powder coated, got them home and tried putting them on the engine...and...discovered I needed to grind some metal off the power steering/tensioner pulley bracket for it to fit around the new dual t-stat housing. Now it wants to be re-powder coated. bummer.
So, another question, can I re-use the flywheel off the 6.2 on this 6.5?

[Yukon6.2]

You will probably have to find a flywheel.
Most 6.2's have a 2 piece rear seal.And 6.5's have a 1 piece rear main seal.
So the flywheels are balanced different because of the change on the crank to accommodate the 1 piece seal.

[3and3oneton]

not the answer I was hoping for.

[3and3oneton]

Here is a picture of things mostly mocked up. I am still waiting on the the injection pump, injectors and fuel lines, and new motor mounts.
Another minor hiccup I encountered was the alternator for a 6.5 with the serpentine pulley has a different plug in than the 1985 wiring harness. Motion auto supply here in town had a pig tail for the new alternator and it appears like it will be pretty simple to splice it into the existing wiring. Also with the Banks kit, once I clocked the turbo so the intake hose lined up with the plenum, the oil return line won't line up with the fitting at the mechanical lift pump. It was going to be a bit misaligned anyway as the kit was designed to use the mechanical pump and I have opted to remove it and use an electric one.
I am curious if any body has a reason why I might regret using a 6.2 vacuum pump in the valley as opposed to a belt driven one. The Haines book I have for this says
"Some 1984 and later 6.2L models with the stanadyne model 80 fuel filter system, and all 6.5L models, use a belt-driven vacuum pump. The oil pump drive on these models is also different-an oil pump drive replaces the gear driven vacuum pump." The bit about the oil pump drive being different has me a little worried.
Thanks for all your input and help. I'm out to work for three weeks tomorrow, hopefully the injection pump and stuff will be here when I get back so I can finish this thing up. I got about 3 dump runs waiting on this truck to be running.

[Robyn]

Looks great.

The oil drain just has to allow the oil to flow out of the turbo and get back to the pan.

Get creative and use some braided hose and fittings to gitterdone.

The Oil pump drive is the same from the block mating surface down as are the vacuum pumps.

Some drives had nothing on the top of them, some had a pulse generator/signal sender for tachs or ???

Any of the above will work dandy.

Using the belt driven vacuum pump is handy, plus it leaves more room in the rear valley area to get at stuff.

I would not recommend the 6.5 fuel manager (Any of them) Get a Racor 230R2 fuel filter water separator and if need be fashion a nice bracket to mount it on.

In the old square body there is loads of room under the hood to mount it in an easy to access spot.

These have a water bowl on the bottom with a drain cock and a primer plunger to reprime the system.

[JohnC]

The oil drain just has to allow the oil to flow out of the turbo and get back to the pan.

Without any restrictions! There's a lot of oil going through there and if it can't flow freely, under gravity pressure, then it will smoke. (Don't ask me how I know this...)

[Robyn]

Good point John

YUP...

Gotta be an easy run back for sure.

The Turbo shaft end seals are a closed hook end type ring similar to a tiny piston ring and sit outside of the oil drain groove.

If the drain area is flooded the seal will pass oil and as John says SMOKE WILL BE THE RESULT.

[3and3oneton]

Thanks for the info, I am all about knowledge somebody else learned the hard way! I had thought a braided line set up would be my solution. I'll check back in later next month.

[3and3oneton]

Hi All,

Home from work and back at it. So maybe someone can enlighten me about these two LH exhaust manifolds (photo should be attached). The rusty one is the one that came off my 6.2, the shiny one is the new one I bought for a 6.2/6.5. They are not at all the same thing. Everything I am seeing that resembles the original one is being sold as a humvee manifold. The exhaust crossover tubing that came with the Banks kit almost lines up with the original one, about a 1/2" short front to back and 1/2" misaligned up and down. It's not even remotely close with the new one. What am I missing?
Also, I've got an electric lift pump with a pre-filter. does that need to be mounted low so head pressure from the tank can feed it or can I mount it high against the fire wall? To mount it low in the frame will require me cutting the hard line to fit this set up in, which will end in diesel all over my driveway I'm thinking. That's all for now, Thanks!

[arveetek]

The top manifold is for a Naturally Aspirated 6.2L diesel engine used in the 82-87 "square body" style trucks. The bottom manifold is for a Turbocharged 6.2L/6.5L diesel engine used in the 88-98 body style trucks. Either manifold will fit the engine, but it's the body style and exhaust routing that makes the difference.

Casey

[JohnC]

Blow the fuel back down the line and into the tank, then it won't siphon when you cut the line.

[3and3oneton]

Thank you both.

[3and3oneton]

allright...

first I've got a picture of a sensor thingy on the old 6.2 and the corresponding port on the new 6.5. What is this sensor/sender?

and two pictures of what I believe to be the port that will supply oil to the turbo?



thanks again for all the help.

[DmaxMaverick]

The first is a coolant temp sender.

The second (port) is NOT for the turbo. It's the Crank Position Sensor hole. If your engine is MFI (mechanical injection), it will need to be plugged, or a sensor installed (working or not). Some of the replacement timing covers will have the hole, but needs to be "knocked out", like an electrical panel boss. If the hole isn't all the way through, just ignore it. I doubt this is the case with your engine, as it is already completely assembled. Check carefully.

[3and3oneton]

coolant temp huh? there's a sensor/sender unit on the radiator that I was thinking was my coolant temp. maybe that is a transmission fluid temp? I think that if this was an automatic the tranny fluid has a path through the radiator. Not sure of that though. Thank you.

[3and3oneton]

there shouldn't be any pressure pushing against the crankcase position sensor should there? Being as that port isn't threaded could a guy get away with jamming a rubber plumbers plug type of thing in that hole and calling it good?

[Robyn]

The rear right coolant sensor is actually an ON/OFF temp switch that controls the cold case advance and the fast idle on the IP.

When the engine is cold the switch is closed and the cold advance and the fast idle are activated and at around 120 F coolant temp the switch opens and the advance drops to normal timing and the fast idle solenoid allows the engine to drop to normal idle speed.

As Maverick mentioned about the port up front... If the port under the red caplug goes through... then stuff a used crank position sensor in it.

Or you can fashion a little steel or aluminum plate with a bolt hole in it and Silicone seal and bolt it to the cover using the threaded hole in the cover.

Either way just get it oil tight.


Check your rear sensor off the old engine, and if it will pass current cold and opens at about 120 F then use it.

The cold advance switch can be tough to find at the parts houses so use yours if you can.

If it shows open cold (room temp) its toast.

The sensor in the radiator is likely either a temp switch to turn on the auxiliary electric fan, or possibly trip the low coolant light.

I recommend against the rubber plug.

Cut a small piece of steel or alloy plate that will fit over the port drill it and bolt it down after applying hitemp silicone to the surface.

Does your 6.2 have a similar sensor/switch on the top RH rear port in the head.
About 85/86 they added a glow plug inhibit switch that looks just like the one for the advance on the Right rear.

If you have both...don't mix them up as they are different.

The glow inhibit switch can be jumpered at the plug and forgotten as they are a PITA

Good luck

[3and3oneton]

I understand you to be referencing two sensors on the rear right side; glow plug inhibitor and a cold case advance/fast idle for the IP. The old 6.2 did have a sending unit in that location, I don't recall unplugging any wires from it though. At this point my glow plugs are controlled by a toggle switch in the cab, so if it's a glow plug inhibitor it's probably a moot point for now. Would a mechanical IP have a cold case advance/fast idle sensor? Would I have both these sensors somewhere rear right, or just on or the other? Unless I'm missing one, I've got whatever goes rear right, oil pressure sender at the rear left location and the temp sensor front left.
this is where it gets interesting, getting into parts and pieces I didn't even know existed. Thanks again for all you all's help!