Just died and won't start

[Cold water]

OK, just got back with a scanner. Needed to by one anyway.
Two codes, both refer to the trans. P0843 & P0875. I'm guessing they are probably left over from when the trans was serviced a few months ago.

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

Disregard the DTC's you posted. Both are transmission pressure faults, likely due to the service. In any case, they will not cause a running engine to stop, or prevent a start.

Your fuel priming function sounds normal. Pumping the primer will/should harden after pumping, but will relieve once the engine is cranked (started or not). It will not stay hard to pump if the engine is cranked any significant amount. Once it has lost prime, it will NOT self-prime, and it will stay that way until you get a successful start. If you are pumping the primer a "few" times, it may not be enough. Some of them require as little as 10-25 pumps, while others can require 100 or more. Make sure you are fully priming. The primer pump should become nearly impossible to fully depress before it is "complete".

You described "idled down and died". This sounds like a fuel supply issue (electric/electronic issues are almost always on/off, with no transition between them), and there will normally be no DTC to indicate a problem. Either the fuel system is blocked, or air is leaking in. I suggest you begin by checking the simple things first.

Fuel filter. They can, after a little time of running (especially with significant climate/season changes and temp cycles), loosen or leak at either of the seals (large housing seal at the top, smaller water sensor seal at the bottom). It is simple to R/R the filter. If it's new (like 4K or less), remove and reseat it. The plastic filters are more prone to issues and require greater care to ensure they are properly sealed (and stay that way).

Fuel lines. If they have been recently replaced, any/all connections are suspect. Also check the entire route to make sure a new line isn't pinched or kinked (they often do not get replaced to the exact previous location). Check all the connections and clamps.

[DmaxMaverick]

I'll add.....

The FIRST thing to do with any drivability problem is to remove any electronic power devices (such as Edge) or programming, if possible. Often, they can cause or contribute to issues, and can hinder efforts to correct some issues. So, if you haven't done that, do that.

[Yukon6.2]

Just tossing this out there...
When was the last fill up? And was it Diesel?
Diesels will just die when they get to high concentration of gas in the diesel

[Cold water]

Hi everyone,
I appreciate the advice so far. I cannot see any leaks under the truck or in the vicinity of the fuel lines. I returned the truck to stock by removing the Edge programmer. I just finished replacing the complete fuel head assy. Yes this included a new filter. I also added the spacer and replaced the two short rubber lines since they were looking a little dry rotted and cracked(WIWIT). I did this from the top side so I had to remove the inter cooler piping for ease of access. When I was finished I primed the system multiple times and I am pretty sure I removed all of the air from the system. Yes, the truck has fuel in it and no it does not have any gas in it except for the 1.5 gallons of gas/oil mix in the bed for the chain saw.

I am still perplexed with the old girl. Once I prime the system how long will it hold pressure if I do not turn the key and try to start it? Why has the battery idiot light also suddenly quit working(same day)? How can I test the glow plugs to make sure they are turning on? Yes, the wait light comes on and goes off after a few seconds. It was in the sixties today.

I did find something interesting today. I did not think this truck had a block heater. GM states that these trucks do not need to be plugged in over 0 degrees. When I removed the inter cooler pipe I found a cable with a three prong 110 volt end on it. I bought the truck from my cousin in '09, who bought it new in Utah.

Again, I really want to thank everyone that has responded and those that hopefully will respond!

[DmaxMaverick]

OK. What was the result? No start? Start w/ rough running? Start then stall?

Hi everyone,
I appreciate the advice so far. I cannot see any leaks under the truck or in the vicinity of the fuel lines. I returned the truck to stock by removing the Edge programmer. I just finished replacing the complete fuel head assy. Yes this included a new filter. I also added the spacer and replaced the two short rubber lines since they were looking a little dry rotted and cracked(WIWIT). I did this from the top side so I had to remove the inter cooler piping for ease of access. When I was finished I primed the system multiple times and I am pretty sure I removed all of the air from the system.

Did you open the top bleeder to let the air escape? If not, it will not remove all the air.

Yes, the truck has fuel in it and no it does not have any gas in it except for the 1.5 gallons of gas/oil mix in the bed for the chain saw.

This is an acceptable location for gasoline in your Diesel vehicle.

I am still perplexed with the old girl. Once I prime the system how long will it hold pressure if I do not turn the key and try to start it?

It may or may not "hold" pressure. It only needs to keep fuel in the lines. As long as fuel doesn't leak out, and air doesn't leak in, it's OK.

Why has the battery idiot light also suddenly quit working(same day)?

What means "quit working"? The idiot light should come on during a power-on cycle, but go out once started (unless there is an issue with the charging system). If it doesn't work this way, there's an issue with the electrical system, IPC, PCM, or BCM.

How can I test the glow plugs to make sure they are turning on? Yes, the wait light comes on and goes off after a few seconds. It was in the sixties today.

Sounds like the GP controller is working fine. Don't worry if the GP's are actually getting power or not. They are not needed for a "normal" (successful) start. I've tested (GP's disconnected) down to -10F. Rough start, but it did. If they GP's are not working perfectly, it will trigger the SES and store related codes. Same for the intake heater.

I did find something interesting today. I did not think this truck had a block heater. GM states that these trucks do not need to be plugged in over 0 degrees. When I removed the inter cooler pipe I found a cable with a three prong 110 volt end on it. I bought the truck from my cousin in '09, who bought it new in Utah.

All GM Diesel light trucks (including Duramax, but maybe not late mini-trucks) have a block heater from the factory. All of them.

Again, I really want to thank everyone that has responded and those that hopefully will respond!

You're welcome. I hope the outcome improves.

[Cold water]

[QUOTE=DmaxMaverick;322450]OK. What was the result? No start? Start w/ rough running? Start then stall?

No start.

Did you open the top bleeder to let the air escape? If not, it will not remove all the air.

Yes I did.

This is an acceptable location for gasoline in your Diesel vehicle.

I thought so


What means "quit working"? The idiot light should come on during a power-on cycle, but go out once started (unless there is an issue with the charging system). If it doesn't work this way, there's an issue with the electrical system, IPC, PCM, or BCM.

Stopped coming on at all! This is starting to sound like it is going to get much more expensive and will be heading down the road on a tow truck.


All GM Diesel light trucks (including Duramax, but maybe not late mini-trucks) have a block heater from the factory. All of them.

Thanks for the info, I was not aware of that.