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Thread: Newbie With a 1983 G Series Van & 6.2

  1. #121
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    Well I’m going to be a good little forum user/supporter and order the volume I & II books from the library. I already have the troubleshooting and repair book and it was super useful so this will round out the series and maybe keep me from asking dumb questions. Thanks for the help.

  2. #122
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    FWIW I am still fettling on the 2nd RV, one of the retaining bolts for the alternator/generator (old style) snapped in the head and removing it has proven tough. Coupled with me working out of town, remodeling my house and traveling with the wife over the past several months have left me little time to do much. I have broken a bolt extractor in it but luckily managed to get it back out, my latest scheme is drill the bolt, then I ran a left hand tap into it and I ordered some left hand grade 8.8 bolts hoping the threads will grab it better than the ribs on the extractor did. Also been soaking it repeatedly with PB Blaster.
    Last resort will be pulling the head, at that point I’d probably just swap heads with the first van and be done with it.

  3. #123
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    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Arrow

    If the heads are good otherwise and you're removing them anyway, you can swap them left to right. New bolt holes all around. Been there. Done that. If the head gaskets aren't recent, now is as good a time as any.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  4. #124
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    Been doing some research on this head swap, since I have the other RV that I know was running well I’ll probably pull the same head and swap those two.

    Not looking forward to manhandling the heads inside the tunnel of the engine bay.

  5. #125
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    I bolted a pipe to the head to act as a handle.
    I even hung one from a ratchet strap so i could lower it carefully onto a new head gasket.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    I bolted a pipe to the head to act as a handle.
    I even hung one from a ratchet strap so i could lower it carefully onto a new head gasket.
    Could you explain this more? I was thinking once the valve cover was off I could bolt something to the cam retainers (I’ve never seen inside these heads so I don’t know if this would work) to use as a lifting bar.

    Since I am only dealing with a single stuck bolt, I might just pull the head and take it to a shop to have the bolt blasted out and have them check the head for warpage rather than swap a different one in.

  7. #127
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    Yes i took a couple of pieces of pipe,drilled holes to match the rocker studs and then bolted them down.I chose pipe because it was round and more comfortable to my hands.
    After i got my truck going,one head developed a leak so i used the pipes again and rigged to a high point where i used the ratchet strap to take the weight as i lowered the new head on the block.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  8. #128
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    Well the head removal begins today. So far I am at the point where everything on top of engine is out of the way, next step is removing the exhaust header, then valve cover and so on. I found a really good US Army service manual that I would say is better than the GM one. I found it on http://steelsoldiers.com in case anyone is interested.
    Despite my fears, I would argue that this has been easier in the van than it would be in a truck, as the engine is about 80% beneath the doghouse meaning sitting in the van places me above the engine the entire time. However it also means the header is between the frame and floor pan so space will be limited.
    Wish me luck on the header bolts.

    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload...320-289-34.pdf

  9. #129
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    Had to leave the header attached and break the exhaust loose where it exits the header as there was no room to get a socket on the bolts. However with a little muscle it came out pretty well. I’ll likely remove the exhaust pipe back to the muffler as that was the only place the head really bound up. Once it was on the bench all it took was a little heat to break loose the header bolts, and now it’s all ready to be dropped off at a machine shop to get the bolt out. I tried putting a vice grip on the end of it but there’s just not enough to grab securely. All things considered, I am mostly happy to have pulled the head as just a learning experience. Getting it back on will be interesting, as well.

    Any recommendations on head gaskets? Mahle? Fel-Pro? Also, is it really worth going to studs in lieu of sticking with head bolts?




    Last edited by Bigshankhank; 02-17-2019 at 11:27. Reason: Added images

  10. #130
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    Did a little more reading in my TDP books, since mine is an early 6.2l it sounds like I will need the Detroit head gaskets.
    Remaining question is the bolts vs studs. Anyone?

  11. #131
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    Hi
    I am just curious about the reason for the Detroit head gaskets?
    And are you going to replace the gasket on the other side?
    As to bolts or studs...
    Remember if you use studs you will need extra room above the engine to put the head's back on.
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    Hi
    I am just curious about the reason for the Detroit head gaskets?
    And are you going to replace the gasket on the other side?
    As to bolts or studs...
    Remember if you use studs you will need extra room above the engine to put the head's back on.
    Thomas
    I got the recommendation for the Detroit gaskets from the TDP book. Is there a compelling argument against them? And no, I am not replacing the gasket on the other side, no reason to.
    I had the stud/bolt discussion with the machine shop where I dropped of the head, and as luck would have it the mechanic I spoke with has worked on 6.2's in cargo vans before and made that exact point, so I'm sticking with bolts.

  13. #133
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    I'm hoping "More Power" will jump in here and comment on his head gasket recommendation. Maybe JK or Robyn will chime in also.
    d
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselDavy View Post
    I'm hoping "More Power" will jump in here and comment on his head gasket recommendation. Maybe JK or Robyn will chime in also.
    d
    I welcome any advice, I am not a diesel engine builder in my day to day life, more of a motorcycle guy.

    Fact is I cannot find a source for the Detroit gaskets anyway, unless its from the same Detroit as Detroit Diesel heavy duty engines (from 18-wheelers and locomotive engines). Everything else I've found recommends Fel-Pro. Again, the TDP books had a section describing the various strong and weak points of the different manufacturers of 6.2 & 6.5 gaskets for use on the six-two and the final recommendation was the Detroit. If I can find them.

  15. #135
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    Felpro gaskets and bolts are readily available and top notch parts.

    I have always used the Felpro stuff.

    When you order the gaskets be sure to specify the year.

    Some early 6.2 engines "May" have a slightly different water passage configuration.

    It may have been only the 1982 "Red" engines that were different, but compare the old one to the new gasket and make sure all the holes line up.


    Before you install the head/s be sure to run a metric tap through the head bolt holes to clean them....clean the threads with brakleen or similar degreasing solvent.

    NO OILY GOOP ALLOWED
    The new bolts come with a DRY SILICONE on the new bolt threads.

    Make sure that the deck of the block is SPOTLESSLY CLEAN ...Also be sure that there are no worn spots in the deck where the stainless fire ring has eroded the cast iron block.
    This type of erosion can be seen more near the #1 and #2 cylinders where the block does not have a water passage.

    The coolant lays against the block and over time electrolysis can cause etching of the deck near the fire ring.

    If the fire ring has eroded the deck the only fix is to machine the block (Not pretty as it means removal and complete tear down)

    Be sure to follow the torque specs on the bolts exactly... The bolts come with a nice printed sheet in the box along with the sequence too...

    Normally these are a multi step sequence with the final pass through being A 1/4 TURN
    (20 ftlb...50 ftlb...then 1/4 turn comes to mind)

    The TTY (Torque to yield) bolts are pretty much the best choice on these engines..
    Last edited by Robyn; 02-19-2019 at 07:46.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  16. #136
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    This is all great information, thank you.
    I checked and mine has the extra water passage at the back of the head. I also think it has the larger intake valves from the early heads (pretty substantial size difference between the intake & exhaust when I looked at them) which I had thought they stopped using in '82? Maybe because this is in an RV they figured to continue spec'ing them for a few more years.
    I haven't had a chance to clean the mating surface on the block. Since this wasn't leaking to begin with (I removed it in order to remove a stuck bolt) I am hoping that there won't be any residual damage to any surfaces.

    Different question; should I use anti-seize on the exhaust manifold bolts? Because of clearance issues I couldn't get a socket & breaker bar on the bolts and so had to leave the manifold attached when I pulled the head, and if I ever have to remove the head again being able to remove them with just a combination wrench would make this process easier.

  17. #137
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    Yup, took me a loooong time but I am finally getting around to re-installing this head. For anyone who wants to try this in a van, don’t, just get a different vehicle. This is going to be a 3-person task, 2 in the cab and 1 stretching through the hood helping to maneuver.

  18. #138
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    Head on, bolted down, rockers, injectors, exhaust manifold and glow plugs installed, valve cover lightly torqued in place with RTV, I’ll tighten it up tomorrow morning and install the injector lines, intake and the rest of the odds and ends.

  19. #139
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    I’m pretty stoked about this old rig running again. https://youtu.be/H5cViq7fp7I

  20. #140
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    Good deal.
    Any engine in a van is a pain to work on. (Actually, yours has a fair bit of room around the engine compared to the smaller vans "Astro" )
    At the factory the engine and trans are mounted to the sub frame and the entire assembly are installed from the bottom as a package.

    There are few parts on a van that are easy to work on..

    The same van with the small block V8 are somewhat easier....but not much....

    Enjoy the rig....
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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