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Old 04-27-2017, 03:05 AM
EdHale's Avatar
EdHale EdHale is offline
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Maplesville, AL - Home Base
Posts: 489

You definitely need to beef up the left side some more. I don't think it will hold up both of those TP rolls.

'06 Sierra LBZ 4x4 Crew SB, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, TTT/Schefenacker Mirrors
'98 Suburban, 245,000 - sold 7-4-06
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Old 04-27-2017, 07:24 AM
Robyn's Avatar
Robyn Robyn is offline
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Newberg Oregon
Posts: 9,337


I was thinking the same thing, maybe a knee brace in there and some 2 inch plate flanges

We looked at the ready made safety bars sold in places like Depot and Lowes and could not find what we wanted, and the sizes available were just not gonna get it.

The only solution really came down to building something that was going to fit the application.

Originally I had wanted a single bar from the step/floor up and to the wall, but the 2x3 studs in the wall just were not going to offer a solid enough anchor point to be safe if the bar got used in the event of a slip getting in or out of the tub.

After some thought it became quite obvious that a horizontal bar was the only good way to add some serious strength to the assembly.

The end flanges are fastened into the studs with 2-1/2" #10 stainless deck screws.

AS the remodel continues the linen cabinet that is beside the commode goes away and is being replaced by an oak cabinet that is not as deep but much wider.

The current TP holder was fastened to the linen cabinet and in a position that was totally unhandy to reach

The thought of a portable/freestanding roll holder had been kicking around and we do have one in another bath, but they are spendy and that idea just fell by the wayside.

The horizontal bar just evolved over several days of thinking and measuring and we decided to make it to allow towels or clothes on hangers to be hung.

A multi function device.

The Roll holder idea came along the other day and I mocked it up with some duct tape and paper towel tubes and cardboard

The idea seemed reasonable so I headed back to the exhaust shop and had the piece cut and bent.

There were 2 pieces of 2-1/2" aluminum round left from the ebay purchase, so I whipped up a matching bracket to attach the roll holder.

Definitely overkill, but it looks decent, is functional and cost very little to build.

Total cost with the tubing/bending, aluminum round, screws/bolts etc. was about $100 for the entire bar assembly.
Custom bars are far more costly, plus the fact that the wall is not straight (most are not) made a welded unit all but impossible to do.

We won't talk about the labor time .

Guess there is about 4-5 hours of total time to machine all the parts and get them finished to the point of assembly.

Looking forward to getting this entire remodel done.

Sadly the toughest part is to come.

Still have to demolish the original tub and vanity and remove them.

It's a work in progress for sure.

The existing cabinets are fastened to the walls from inside the walls it seems, as there are no nails or screws showing in the cabinets.

A sawzall will likely be in order.

This is probably going to get ugly

Once the old stuff is out though the replacements are sitting ready and can go in quickly.

The oak vanity is in great shape but in time we will need to refinish the drawer and door fronts.

Considering that the cabinet was installed in a home in the early 90's and used, the slight signs of use are no biggy at all.

Franken house
(1) 95 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 2017 Smart fortwo
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Old 04-27-2017, 07:44 AM
Robyn's Avatar
Robyn Robyn is offline
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Newberg Oregon
Posts: 9,337

Originally Posted by convert2diesel View Post

You mentioned that your water is not the best. Is it high in minerals/salt? If so, I would really want to look at a whole house filter.

Your pump may now be entirely stainless steel but a side effect of that is nothing sticks to it. As it gets older, there will be a build up of these minerals on the impellors, but being stainless, it will build up to a point and then centrifugal force will cause the minerals to come off the impellor and you will be back with the same old problems except that now its minerals, not plastic.

Our water is on the upside as far as iron content and has a ph of 5

The issue with the pump was that one impeller in the middle of the stack of 26 broke (drive hub fractured and broke) and this allowed the impeller to be forced upward cutting off the water flow up into the remaining impellers and also causing cavitation.

The plastic was destroyed pump parts due to lack of flow and the cavitation.

The original pump was in the hole for 25 years approx and just wore out.

The mineral/ph issue is a no worry thing.
(1) 95 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 2017 Smart fortwo
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