Page 6 of 12 FirstFirst ... 2345678910 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 120 of 224

Thread: P0087 fuel rail pressure low limp under high loads

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bar Nunn, WY
    Posts
    193

    Default

    Demi

    Is your sig correct that you 5th wheel is 21k lbs dry? If so that is way over the towing capacity of your truck and contributing to (or causing) your hot fuel problem.

    Jay
    2023 Tahoe 3.0l diesel
    2013 Harley Switchback
    2021 Ram 2500 6.7l (sold)
    2018 Chevy Traverse (sold)
    2021 Silverado 3.0l LM2 (sold)
    2019 GMC Sierra 6.2l (sold)
    2019 Colorado ZR2(sold)
    2017 2500HD CC D/A (sold)
    2015 1500 CC High Country 6.2l (sold)
    2010 Chev 2500HD CC D/A (sold)
    2013 Chev 2500HD CC D/A (sold)
    2006 Chev 3500 CC D/A (sold)
    2005 Harley Ultra Classic (sold)

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,057

    Default

    The fuel cooler is a small radiator under the truck just forward of the fuel tank.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Hawaii/Arizona
    Posts
    259

    Default Total weight ???

    Demi,

    I agree with Cabletech, if your trailer is 21k # you do NOT have enough truck to pull it or stop it. The total weight of your truck and trailer would be 29k to 31k #. Your truck appears to be similar to my 2006, CC, Dually and it is rated to haul (truck & trailer) 24k #. I think you just added the truck weight to the trailer weight in your signature (I hope). If your truck and trailer weigh around 24k # you should be OK. If you are actually running a total combined weight around 30k # you have far exceeded the design limits of the truck and that is likely the cause of your problem.

    Last week I posted a suggestion to pressure wash the fuel cooler and to run as much fuel in your tank as possible and see if you were still setting the P0087 code. To wash the fuel cooler go to a self operated car wash. Then lay on the ground and spray the one foot square radiator looking thing mounted under the bed behind the drivers side of the cab. When you think it is clean spray it some more. I always am impressed by the amount of dirt that is left on my driveway when I clean the cooler. Additionally, experiment by topping off your fuel tank when it gets down to 3/4 full capacity for a travel day or two and see if it helps with the P0087 code problem. On a diesel motor part of the fuel that is pumped to the motor returns hot to the fuel tank and the full fuel tank will help to absorb the heat from the returning fuel.

    I hope things start working a little better for you with the truck. You indicated you were in the Tucson area and I would suggest that you camp at the Kartchner caverns state park (I10 & SR 90) and take day trips to Tombstone and Bisbee. The caverns are great, Tombstone is fun and my family really loved the mining car ride into a 100 year old mine in Bisbee.

    If you do weigh around 30k # be very careful in the Az mountains. I am very cautious and I have still had my brakes smoking on these hills.

    Good luck & safe travels
    John
    *2006 Chevy, 3500, 4X4, DRW, (LBZ) D/A, CC, LT, 252K Miles, 19.5" Wheels, Mag Hytec Transmission Pan and Differential Cover, SS Grill Guard, Racor 2 micron aux fuel filter, 100 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank, using Edge Evolution, Predator Diablosport, Kennedy ECM tune, Fitch Fuel Catalyst.

    *2006 Four Winds, Dutchman, 36', RV, D/A, 5500 Kodiak.
    *1993 Harley Davidson, Turbo charged, Springer Softail.
    *2007 Pontiac Solstice.
    *2005 Jeep, Liberty, CRD (diesel).
    *Full-timing in USA, see America first.

    BUY AMERICAN or CANADIAN, NOTHING from CHINA .

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    All over U.S. (traveling)
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I was wrong about the info on the dry weight. Apparently it's only ~14,500. So that is not the issue. Sorry about that guys, I was getting incorrect info from somewhere.

    >>"Last week I posted a suggestion to pressure wash the fuel cooler and to run as much fuel in your tank as possible and see if you were still setting the P0087 code. To wash the fuel cooler go to a self operated car wash. Then lay on the ground and spray the one foot square radiator looking thing mounted under the bed behind the drivers side of the cab. When you think it is clean spray it some more. I always am impressed by the amount of dirt that is left on my driveway when I clean the cooler. Additionally, experiment by topping off your fuel tank when it gets down to 3/4 full capacity for a travel day or two and see if it helps with the P0087 code problem. On a diesel motor part of the fuel that is pumped to the motor returns hot to the fuel tank and the full fuel tank will help to absorb the heat from the returning fuel."

    Totally agree with the hot fuel issue. We added "Kill'Em" to the tank today per the mechanic's suggestion. I don't expect anything to happen. We are staying in Tucson for a few weeks so if we don't have any issues with fungus, etc. in the fuel lines then we plan to clean the fuel cooler REALLY WELL as you suggested. We're doing one thing at a time so we can be sure what action fixed the issue. We leave Tucson at the end of the month so I'll be reporting back then to let everyone know how cleaning the fuel cooler helped on our drive to Malibu, CA.

    Thanks, D

    2008 Silverado - 3500 HD DRW (189k miles - symptoms since ~115k - purchased at 105k)
    *We've had the GM bulletin PIP4526 collapsing fuel line issue addressed already.
    *Towing a 2012 Dutchman Voltage 3900 (7.25 tons dry)

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sterling, CO
    Posts
    15

    Default

    First off, thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion. I believe it has at least some good workarounds, and likely, the real solution to the problem. I am towing a 14,500# res style 5th wheel purchased last April from Southern California. Towed it home through the Rockies and over Loveland Pass with no problems. It was still cold in the Rockies and snowing much of the trip, but warm on the flat desert of southern California/Nevada. Then in August, back over Loveland for camping, and home over Berthoud Pass. The truck did warm up climbing Loveland that time, but no codes, just needed coolant.

    My truck is down right now. I am in DesMoines trying to get home to CO. We left CO in March, for work at Perry Nuclear Plant outage in NE Ohio. After outage it was off to PA for a vacation with family. The trip out there went smoothly with the late/cool spring.

    We left PA June 9th. Climbing a good hill mid afternoon in western PA, I got my first check engine/limp mode and the temp gauge indicating the the coolant was warming up. Googled up the manual limp mode reset and got back on the road in an hour. Happened again after 40mins, climbing again. Did the manual reset, and decided to look for a stealership. Pulled into the next town which didn't even have a dealer, or a parts house, but did have 2 bay diesel shop for big rigs, and a mechanic who drove a '07 Dmax classic with a programmer. He came over, pulled the 87 code, reset, and said "Must've gotten dirty fuel, get a fuel filter". Off to napa. It clouded up, started to rain, got to napa, installed new filter. Made it to northern MI the next evening to visit more family, without any more trouble. Problem solved?

    We left MI on the 15th stopping in Minooka, Il for the night, still no problems. Headed west in the morning hitting the hills in eastern Iowa by early afternoon. Yup, code/limp/pull over/manual reset at Coralville. Pulled off thinking "that was some really bad diesel, if it crapped up another filter that fast." Went to O'reilly's, picked up AC Delco filter, installed and back on the road in little over an hour. Hit the road and noticed check engine was OFF?? Hmmm? Drove a while, got another check engine/limp/pull over/manual reset and each time the coolant temp has climbed, once near red line. It's not the filter, I need a mechanic.

    Got it into DesMoines, set up the camper at Adventureland, and took the truck to Bob Brown GMC the next morning. They did not want to hear the details. Their attitude... "Just leave, we'll figure it out and let you know." I get a call..."You need new HP fuel pump, two fuel rails, and 8 new injectors. A ceramic ball valve in the pump is failing and ruined the entire fuel system after the pump. And oh, you have a head gasket leak that we can fix while we're in there for just over $12k." Yea, I'll be getting a second opinion, and if that's the truth, a new motor. They quoted me just over $19k for the new motor. Next stop, West Side Diesel Repair.

    They confirmed the HP pump diagnosis, dispelled the leaking head gasket, and agreed to replace the pump, coolant system chemical flush, fuel system clean/flush, and agreed that without one single symptom associated with injector failure presenting, fix those if/when symptoms say to.

    Got the truck back first thing Friday morning. Hit the road at 11. Made it 20 mins west of DesMoines (and I was pushing/testing) and we were turning back after another manual reset. Waiting until Monday for them to resume but I am pushing the collapsed fuel line angle, and once they fix that and/or whatever else they come up with, I will be heading to a car wash to do the fuel cooler clean you all recommend, and trying again. Keep you posted....
    Last edited by Jeff Paxton; 06-22-2013 at 09:52.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Hawaii/Arizona
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Jeff,
    First let me welcome you to the Diesel Page. I am sorry to hear about the troubles with your truck. It appears that you have read the posts about the P0087 code and know that there are a lot of theories about the cause. If you do find a definite cause please post it for others to draw help from.
    It would help if you posted detailed specifics about your truck. The year, motor, any programers, mods like larger tires or exhaust.

    It is clear that there are a lot of people with the P0087 problem, because over 30k people have read this thread. Does anyone at GM customer service on line reading this have any ideas? I am not beating up on GMCS it just seems that this is a big problem with the Duramax in hot weather. The only thing that gets more hits on the DP seems to be the injector failures on the LB7 Dmax. GM should be doing research and putting out service bulletins.

    Good luck and keep us posted
    John
    *2006 Chevy, 3500, 4X4, DRW, (LBZ) D/A, CC, LT, 252K Miles, 19.5" Wheels, Mag Hytec Transmission Pan and Differential Cover, SS Grill Guard, Racor 2 micron aux fuel filter, 100 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank, using Edge Evolution, Predator Diablosport, Kennedy ECM tune, Fitch Fuel Catalyst.

    *2006 Four Winds, Dutchman, 36', RV, D/A, 5500 Kodiak.
    *1993 Harley Davidson, Turbo charged, Springer Softail.
    *2007 Pontiac Solstice.
    *2005 Jeep, Liberty, CRD (diesel).
    *Full-timing in USA, see America first.

    BUY AMERICAN or CANADIAN, NOTHING from CHINA .

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sterling, CO
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Thanks for the welcome.

    I own a 2006 GMC 2500HD, LLY tune, and aside from airbags to level it, it is bone stock. I bought the truck Aug of 2011 with 189k miles. Traveling for work to the east and south, it now has 228k. I run 265's rather than the 245's but this is insignificant and it is absolutely ferocious... when not towing!

    I will keep the forum posted of the outcome whether it is resolved or not. The thought of trading it is crossing my mind, but for what? They ALL have their own problems. Don't want to drive a Freightliner...
    Last edited by Jeff Paxton; 06-22-2013 at 12:36.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD w/ airbags
    228k miles, purchased at 189k

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Teton Valley, Idaho
    Posts
    1,873

    Default

    Making sure the fuel cooler is clean is a good step, and the AllData site also suggests making sure the fuel heater (if equipped) is not stuck in the ON position.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sterling, CO
    Posts
    15

    Default

    What is the process for determining it is eqiupped and checking?
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD w/ airbags
    228k miles, purchased at 189k

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Paxton View Post
    What is the process for determining it is eqiupped and checking?
    It has one, unless it's been removed. Check for battery voltage at the top electrical connector on the filter assy. If necessary, it can be disconnected without any drama.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Hi Jeff,

    I am sorry to hear about these difficulties you are experiencing. I would be happy to assist, but I do recommend that repairs be made at a certified GM dealership as they are our eyes and ears on the field. If you could private message me your name, address, phone number, VIN, and current vehicle mileage I can start the process for you in getting the vehicle issues resolved. Thank you!

    Jessica
    GM Customer Care

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Paxton View Post
    First off, thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion. I believe it has at least some good workarounds, and likely, the real solution to the problem. I am towing a 14,500# res style 5th wheel purchased last April from Southern California. Towed it home through the Rockies and over Loveland Pass with no problems. It was still cold in the Rockies and snowing much of the trip, but warm on the flat desert of southern California/Nevada. Then in August, back over Loveland for camping, and home over Berthoud Pass. The truck did warm up climbing Loveland that time, but no codes, just needed coolant.

    My truck is down right now. I am in DesMoines trying to get home to CO. We left CO in March, for work at Perry Nuclear Plant outage in NE Ohio. After outage it was off to PA for a vacation with family. The trip out there went smoothly with the late/cool spring.

    We left PA June 9th. Climbing a good hill mid afternoon in western PA, I got my first check engine/limp mode and the temp gauge indicating the the coolant was warming up. Googled up the manual limp mode reset and got back on the road in an hour. Happened again after 40mins, climbing again. Did the manual reset, and decided to look for a stealership. Pulled into the next town which didn't even have a dealer, or a parts house, but did have 2 bay diesel shop for big rigs, and a mechanic who drove a '07 Dmax classic with a programmer. He came over, pulled the 87 code, reset, and said "Must've gotten dirty fuel, get a fuel filter". Off to napa. It clouded up, started to rain, got to napa, installed new filter. Made it to northern MI the next evening to visit more family, without any more trouble. Problem solved?

    We left MI on the 15th stopping in Minooka, Il for the night, still no problems. Headed west in the morning hitting the hills in eastern Iowa by early afternoon. Yup, code/limp/pull over/manual reset at Coralville. Pulled off thinking "that was some really bad diesel, if it crapped up another filter that fast." Went to O'reilly's, picked up AC Delco filter, installed and back on the road in little over an hour. Hit the road and noticed check engine was OFF?? Hmmm? Drove a while, got another check engine/limp/pull over/manual reset and each time the coolant temp has climbed, once near red line. It's not the filter, I need a mechanic.

    Got it into DesMoines, set up the camper at Adventureland, and took the truck to Bob Brown GMC the next morning. They did not want to hear the details. Their attitude... "Just leave, we'll figure it out and let you know." I get a call..."You need new HP fuel pump, two fuel rails, and 8 new injectors. A ceramic ball valve in the pump is failing and ruined the entire fuel system after the pump. And oh, you have a head gasket leak that we can fix while we're in there for just over $12k." Yea, I'll be getting a second opinion, and if that's the truth, a new motor. They quoted me just over $19k for the new motor. Next stop, West Side Diesel Repair.

    They confirmed the HP pump diagnosis, dispelled the leaking head gasket, and agreed to replace the pump, coolant system chemical flush, fuel system clean/flush, and agreed that without one single symptom associated with injector failure presenting, fix those if/when symptoms say to.

    Got the truck back first thing Friday morning. Hit the road at 11. Made it 20 mins west of DesMoines (and I was pushing/testing) and we were turning back after another manual reset. Waiting until Monday for them to resume but I am pushing the collapsed fuel line angle, and once they fix that and/or whatever else they come up with, I will be heading to a car wash to do the fuel cooler clean you all recommend, and trying again. Keep you posted....
    For information on the GM Privacy Statement, please visit http://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html.

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sterling, CO
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Jessica, I do not have private message privilege's yet due to being too new a member of the forum. Maybe you can send one to me and I can reply?
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD w/ airbags
    228k miles, purchased at 189k

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Hi Jeff!

    It looks like I am unable to send you one as well. Sorry about that! If you would like to send me an e-mail through socialmedia@gm.com and label the subject line "Attention: Jessica G" we can correspond that way. Thank you!

    Jessica
    GM Customer Care

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Paxton View Post
    Jessica, I do not have private message privilege's yet due to being too new a member of the forum. Maybe you can send one to me and I can reply?
    For information on the GM Privacy Statement, please visit http://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html.

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    All over U.S. (traveling)
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I doubt going to a GM or any other dealership is going to help, like Jessica from GM suggests. No offense. I have to say I've had 2 Chevy dealerships tell me to get new injectors. HOWEVER, two other Chevy dealerships say no and so did 3 separate diesel engine techs who own their own business. Can't leave it up to a huge corporation to solve an issue on trucks that are all past their warranty date. If that were true we wouldn't be posting here right now about this issue... Like another poster said this is one of the most checked threads on the forum.

    Anyway, I apologize to everyone that I never posted back about our truck issues. No they are still not resolved. I tried cleaning off the fuel cooler. Still not sure about how to disconnect a fuel heater like DmaxMaverick suggests. I personally would need some more detailed steps on how to do that.

    Jeff, you said
    Waiting until Monday for them to resume but I am pushing the collapsed fuel line angle, and once they fix that and/or whatever else they come up with, I will be heading to a car wash to do the fuel cooler clean you all recommend, and trying again.
    I'd do the collapsed fuel line repair anyway but don't hold your breath on that working long term. It's still a good idea. I think the whole repair for that only cost us about $100.

    I'm actually thinking of getting suped up fuel cooler after all the symptoms we've had. Anyone think that this sounds like a good idea to try out? Someone on this forum that works on diesels named "DieselTech" seems to have the answer. ---> Add another fuel lift and another fuel cooler.
    http://www.dmaxcentral.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5358

    At this point we are just dealing with the problem. We baby our truck when towing, never use the cruise, make use of the down hills to get up the next hill and clear codes as needed. We plan to drive a good 3-4 hours when starting out on any extended trip and then we stop off for breakfast or lunch somewhere (and we are VERY leisurely about it) to get the truck to cool down as much as possible. This seems to help a lot so far. We also get fuel just before leaving instead of getting it the night before. Maybe this is helping with the fuel temps?

    Jeff please let us know if anything works for you.

    -Demi

    2008 Silverado - 3500 HD DRW (198k miles - symptoms since ~115k - purchased at 105k)
    *We've had the GM bulletin PIP4526 collapsing fuel line issue addressed already
    *Already tried washing off fuel cooler
    *Towing a 2012 Dutchman Voltage 3900 (7.25 tons dry)
    Last edited by Demilee; 06-23-2013 at 20:17. Reason: updating sig

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    To keep it simple:

    There are 2 wire harness sets to the filter assembly. The lower is the WIF (Water In Fuel) sensor, and the upper is the fuel heater. Follow the upper wires from the filter assy to the connector. Disconnect the connector if you want/need to disconnect the heater. The PCM controls the heater, but doesn't monitor it. The PCM only sends voltage to the heater, but doesn't monitor feedback, so if it isn't connected/working, it won't know (or care).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    All over U.S. (traveling)
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    To keep it simple:

    There are 2 wire harness sets to the filter assembly. The lower is the WIF (Water In Fuel) sensor, and the upper is the fuel heater. Follow the upper wires from the filter assy to the connector. Disconnect the connector if you want/need to disconnect the heater. The PCM controls the heater, but doesn't monitor it. The PCM only sends voltage to the heater, but doesn't monitor feedback, so if it isn't connected/working, it won't know (or care).
    Great! I know exactly which one you mean now. Thanks!

    -Demi

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sterling, CO
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Just got the call from the repair shop. They said, "We did an injector balance test and the numbers are all over the place indicating you need injectors." Of course, not being a diesel tech, I can't make sense of this. All I can do is look at obvious symptoms that present when injectors are bad. I don't remember all of them at the moment, but It starts easily, idles like a purring kitten, doesn't smoke, and has power out the wazoo when not hooked up to a load. Thoughts anyone? Will this cause a starvation for fuel under load when downshifting up a hill? I am still leaning toward fuel lines as a logical reason. But when they call me with a parts quote, I want to either tell them do the fuel lines, or just tell them I'm coming to get it because I am not doing injectors regardless. The truck isn't worth that kind of expense.

    Edit to add: he said "the balance rates are ranging from -.4 to 1.7 or 9 or something..." From what I am reading, anything inside of +/-4 is acceptable so...?

    Just got off the phone again with the quote. $7k+ for new fuel rails and injectors. I said I am not throwing more good money after bad and I will be picking it up to limp it home. I asked specifically what the values were on the balance test... Now he said -.8 to 1.5. I didn't argue that this acceptable, what's the point? They don't want to mess with the fuel line collapse. I may pursue it a little more once I get home, with my dealership, but I will let you all know the outcome. I may just sell the whole rig and forget it.
    Last edited by Jeff Paxton; 06-24-2013 at 09:10.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD w/ airbags
    228k miles, purchased at 189k

  18. #118
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,382

  19. #119
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Hawaii/Arizona
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Jeff,
    If you don't have a scanner that will clear the codes while driving you may want to consider purchasing one. You could have a loooong drive back to Co if you can't easily clear the codes. It may help if you try keeping the fuel tank as near full as possible, traveling in the evening or night and keeping your speed around 60mph. I personally think the biggest factor with the P0087 code problem is hot fuel. You seldom hear of anyone showing a P0087 code in the winter months.
    Good luck
    John
    *2006 Chevy, 3500, 4X4, DRW, (LBZ) D/A, CC, LT, 252K Miles, 19.5" Wheels, Mag Hytec Transmission Pan and Differential Cover, SS Grill Guard, Racor 2 micron aux fuel filter, 100 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank, using Edge Evolution, Predator Diablosport, Kennedy ECM tune, Fitch Fuel Catalyst.

    *2006 Four Winds, Dutchman, 36', RV, D/A, 5500 Kodiak.
    *1993 Harley Davidson, Turbo charged, Springer Softail.
    *2007 Pontiac Solstice.
    *2005 Jeep, Liberty, CRD (diesel).
    *Full-timing in USA, see America first.

    BUY AMERICAN or CANADIAN, NOTHING from CHINA .

  20. #120
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sterling, CO
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Coyle, I don't have a scanner but I think I can go easy enough to make it the 2 hours to the flats west of Omaha. We'll be leaving early in the morn, and fronts have moving through cooling things down. It doesn't take too long to clear a code manually, but it does if it is the actual "cool down" from parking that benefits it the most. I thoroughly pressure washed the fuel cooler as well. I have always gone 60 when towing the rig just for ease of handling, but I will do as Demilee and use the downhill to gain on the uphill if need be so... I think you are correct on the 87 code, have NEVER had one when it was cool/cold. And I will definitely be keeping the tank 1/2 full+. I will disconnect the fuel heater as well per DmaxMaverick's instructions. Anyway, I will let the forum know how it goes.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD w/ airbags
    228k miles, purchased at 189k

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •