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2500HD/3500 HD Trucks & Drivetrain Discussion Forum for the 2001 & newer 2500HD/3500 Trucks, Transmissions & Drivetrain

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  #1  
Old 02-12-2017, 11:11 PM
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gary_lucas gary_lucas is offline
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Default Got a huge estimate from a mechanic.

I brought the truck in for an oil change and diagnose a coolant loss + overheat.

Original thread here: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=45049

Among the many things they found on top of the 'head gasket failure' (for which they quoted $8k:
  1. Inner / Outer tie rods w CA$1,050.00
  2. Upper / Lower Ball joints CA$1,480.00
  3. Front Brake Pads / Calipers / Rotors CA$1,150.00
  4. Stearing Gearbox leaking + has play CA$795.00
  5. Pitman arm worn CA$458.00

And a few other things ...

I just did the calipers / brake pads / rotors. I knew going in that those were almost done (and they were... I was about to hit the anti wear tabs any minute). But I was quite surprised to find no play in the steering / suspension that I could tell... Like at all. The tie rods seemed fine, No play that I could sense. if I wiggled one wheel even barely moving it the other wheel seemed to move with it... Did that on both sides, I couldn't detect any play whatsoever, side to side or up and down...

I'm also not an expert either though. Anything I could be missing? My understanding is that these parts need replacing when they show signs of wear. IE when there's play in the system or if their damaged.

Also, if the shop was really trying to make allot of money off of me... What's the chances the head gaskets are ok too? Seems unlikely to me. I've pressure tested before and aren't losing fluid except under load it seems... How do I confirm?

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:23 AM
Kennedy Kennedy is offline
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I can about guarantee the pitman and idler arms are shot. Jack the truck so that the RF wheel is off the ground but not the left. Try to steer the RF tire by grabbing at 3 and 9 oclock. Watch as the drag link rises and falls and the RF tire moves without moving the LF. You can also put a big pipe wrench on the drag link and rotate it.

We do pitman/idler supports on new OE arms typically.
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2017, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennedy View Post
I can about guarantee the pitman and idler arms are shot. Jack the truck so that the RF wheel is off the ground but not the left. Try to steer the RF tire by grabbing at 3 and 9 oclock. Watch as the drag link rises and falls and the RF tire moves without moving the LF. You can also put a big pipe wrench on the drag link and rotate it.

We do pitman/idler supports on new OE arms typically.
Thanks!, I'll check that out out in the next little while. I hadn't heard of pitman / ldler supports before. I'll check that out too.

I'm starting to seriously consider installing a lift in my garage... I think it would pay for itself this year...
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:34 PM
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Checked it all out, the pitman arm has a surprisingly small amount of play. Seems ok for now.

Idler arm was shot and is getting a replacement. I ordered a Moog idler arm + the idler arm bracket with the grease extension.

All the ball joints were in various stages of decay.

Driver side inner / outer tie rods were getting ready to die, passenger side tie rods were almost done.

Shocks are still factory... Those are getting done too.

So far I've done everything on the driver side.

Going to start on the passenger side next weekend.

On the bright side I discovered my next door neighbor is a retired heavy duty mechanic (spent 30 years keeping logging camps in operation) and it's been really helpful having someone who knows there stuff right next door.

I'm going to do all but the pitman / steering gear now, I'm going to do the steering gear / pitman in the fall and will probably spring for the idler / pitman brace. I bought all moog components. I assume their fine with the brace? I see Kennedy said: "OE components" but not sure if that was a hard statement or just a suggestion. I'll probably pull the steering gear right out and check it on a bench + replace the pressure lines when I do it.
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:11 AM
Kennedy Kennedy is offline
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The OE stuff tends to be as good or better and the OE idler comes as a complete assembly.
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More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
Superflow Lie Detector in house
2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

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  #6  
Old 05-11-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennedy View Post
The OE stuff tends to be as good or better and the OE idler comes as a complete assembly.
oops, when I do the pitman side is that an OE thing too? Moog on the idler side, OE on the pitman side + support brackets.

Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:00 PM
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Ok, all front end stuff done.

New Idler / Idler arm bracket. I did install the Moog parts as I'd already bought them.

After all new inner / outer tie rods, new top bottom ball joints and a new idler /idler arm bracket there is less than 1/2 a mm of play in the whole setup, IE barely noticeable!. I think there was so much slop due to worn components that the whole thing was messy. I also did the rear diff + replaced the front shocks and will be doing the rear tomorrow as well as replace the fuel tank strap that seems to have given way and do the transmission fluid + inner and external filter as well as transfer case and front diff if I have time. (I rarely use 4wd, so presumably that's lowest priority).

At this stage i'm looking at doing the pitman arm in the fall / spring next year with cognito supports then. I'll see if they go on sale between now and then (Does that happen?).

The idler arm had definitely been replaced in the relatively recent past, the pitman doesn't have a castle nut on it. But presumably it's been done too.

Next plan is to patch up the wheel well rust (remove rust, make a bondo / glass patch) Spray down what I can reach with rust converter and then in the fall do another cycle of major preventative maintenance. IE do a proper rust control / removal job + replace the leaky power steering lines (possibly the steering gear too if that's what's leaking).

I'm hoping by next year to have what looks and works like a brand new truck
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary_lucas View Post
Ok, all front end stuff done.
........
I'm hoping by next year to have what looks and works like a brand new truck
I'm working on a tech piece that shows how to deal with rust/corrosion on the chassis and related components that is both cheap and easy. I really hate the de-icer used on our winter roads....
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More Power View Post
I'm working on a tech piece that shows how to deal with rust/corrosion on the chassis and related components that is both cheap and easy. I really hate the de-icer used on our winter roads....
Awesome!

Looking forward to reading that!

I'm in Vancouver / Langley BC, Canada. There is definitely brine and salt on our roads... I wish I had taken better care of this when I got the truck. Could have saved myself alot of grief.
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Old 05-24-2017, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More Power View Post
I'm working on a tech piece that shows how to deal with rust/corrosion on the chassis and related components that is both cheap and easy. I really hate the de-icer used on our winter roads....
My solution to de-icer on winter roads is living in Alabama. They don't use any here and it wouldn't help traffic anyway. When people in this part of the country see a single snowflake or even hear the word snow on the radio or tv they go into panic mode. Driving in this mode is simply not to be believed. I just stay at home.
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