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Thread: 097 injectors

  1. #1
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    Default 097 injectors

    Howdy
    Working on our 1993 6.5TD. I am sure the injectors have been replaced at some time.
    The number on the injectors that we removed is 097.
    That is the only marking that I can find on the outside of the injector.
    No manufacture, other part number or anything....all eight are marked with 097 stamped into the body.
    The stamping is neat and inline and uniform.
    Any idea what these injectors are or where they came from?
    Thanks!!!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  2. #2
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    Default

    Sounds like an aftermarket unit. Originals say Bosch and typically 573 or 574 plus a lot of other stuff.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
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    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
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    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Default

    I agree with John

    Aftermarket replacements.

    If you have a good diesel injection shop in your area, then take them in and have them gone though.

    Be sure to ask to have the "pop pressure" as close to absolutely the same as is possible.

    Really makes the engine run a lot smoother especially noticeable at idle.

    Also keeps a lot of unwanted stress off the crank due to weird cyl to cyl timing differences that can happen when the pops are all over the map.

    On a 93 don't go crazy on the pop pressure, as this is likely a used pump ???
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
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    Default

    Howdy
    Correct on the pump, we have no history about it.
    Just taking things one step at a time as this is my sons rig and he is on limited budget.
    The truck seemed to start good and run OK, just allot of raw diesel smoke.
    Hoping the injectors will help with that.
    The 097s will no doubt just hit my storage shelves as we have a couple of known good Bosch sets already.
    I do have a great pump/turbo shop close by so if I ever get in a bind the 097s will go in.
    Thanks!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    If you have a good diesel injection shop in your area, then take them in and have them gone though.
    A general question. We have two large diesel service companies in the area with decent reputations. Both advertise factory trained/certified technicians for Bosch, Stanadyne, Detroit Diesel, CAT, etc. Should I be good walking into either of those? Or are there questions to ask or specific things to look for - well, other than price?
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  6. #6
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    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by trbankii View Post
    A general question. We have two large diesel service companies in the area with decent reputations. Both advertise factory trained/certified technicians for Bosch, Stanadyne, Detroit Diesel, CAT, etc. Should I be good walking into either of those? Or are there questions to ask or specific things to look for - well, other than price?
    It's a coin toss, unless you or someone you know has some experience with them. The only question you might ask is, "Is that an old sign, or do you still have a certified Stanadyne technician and calibration equipment?". Guarantees are also important, so ask about that. Then there's the cost of what you need done. Cheaper should not be the deciding factor.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  7. #7
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    Default

    Thanks for the input. Cheapest definitely isn’t best - but always good to ask going in rather than be surprised by the bill.

    Both have been around for 50+ years and sport statements like this. That would tend to lead me to choose one of them over the smaller shops, but maybe I should be talking to all of them?

    Last edited by trbankii; 06-22-2018 at 05:46.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  8. #8
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    Grand Rapids MN 55744
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    Default

    FYI-
    My local shop has been in business for about 40 years. I found them by looking for a stanodyne service center to buy a PMD(imagine that) That was 15 years ago. Since then they have replaced their service benches three times. I got to know the owner and he is going to trainings more than he is working on the bench. All his certs are current. Definitely not the cheapest, but they do good work and will build things as you request as long as makes sense.
    I think I would try to find out how current the shop is and how current the staff is. For our older stuff it might not be that big of a deal but it's nice to know that they are concerned about being up to date.
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
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    Default

    The RAW diesel smoke issue.

    If compression is reasonably good, glow plugs are working, then the Squirts are the usual culprit.

    As time, dirt, and lotssa miles take their toll, the injector pop pressure falls off and the lovely fine spray mist cone pattern coming from the injectors turns into a very ugly pee stream. (Also the nozzle wears out too)

    The dribbly pee stream can not light well and also leads to poor performance as well as high exhaust temps and also in a worst case scenario can cause burnt holes in pistons if the rig is worked hard.

    Also old injectors do not all decline at the same rate, which can leave maybe 3 or 4 of the squirts at say a pop of 1200 pounds and maybe one at 1500-1600 and, ah, well basically all over the map.

    This really screws up the cyl to cyl timing and the torsional vibes in the crank that can take a toll there over time.

    A fresh well ballanced set of Squirts will usually make a world of difference in starting characteristics as well as make the engine run super smooth (A good thing)

    After the rebuild on our 94 Burb (Fresh Squirts) that rig would start in very warm weather (80 F ) without even waiting for the plugs even after sitting for several days.

    Good squirts are a real plus.
    Pop pressure where it should be as well as a proper spray pattern.

    As I mentioned before, with a used IP, don't go nuts on the pop pressure.

    I have seen these guys online selling "High pops" and this is fine to a point, but the IP was designed to work in a specific pressure envelope, and heading off into the ozones with the pressure is not in the best interest of pump longevity.

    As much as I am not really in love with Stanadyne over the mess with the DS4 debacle, their pumps are pretty good stuff and work well when set up properly.

    Good luck with the project.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #10
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    Default

    I have always set the pop pressures higher than spec for all of the injectors that we have done over the past 16+ yrs.


    I just stripped down 14+ sets of cores and all were 573, 574, and maybe a 419 plus one set of Lucas I believe. One set I had a bitch of a time disassembling. Finally figured out that someone had used red Loctite on them.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    There should be a license for purchasing red loctite.
    Although it does give me some business in the gunsmith world....
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,058

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dvldog8793 View Post
    There should be a license for purchasing red loctite.
    You can't legislate Stupid. Take the money and be grateful.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
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    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

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