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Thread: Frame rotted at steering box - K2500 Suburban

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Cochranville, PA
    Posts
    72

    Default Frame rotted at steering box - K2500 Suburban

    So my frame completely disintegrated at the steering box. Finding a K2500 Suburban in the yards is virtually impossible in my area. Will the forward frame section (ahead of the control arm mounts) from any other trucks work? I'm guessing that the front section from a pickup is probably the same. I spent some time under some K1500 pickups today and they LOOK the same, but I'm not 100% certain. At a minimum, the configuration with the front crossmember, sway bar bracket, etc. looks exactly the same.

    Anyone else been down this road before? I know there are dozens of different frames under GMT400 trucks, but it seems that the bulk of the differences are from the firewall back.

    Thanks in advance for any help guys!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by RobK; 01-11-2015 at 18:26.
    98 K1500 Suburban 6.5TD <br />bone stock (for now)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Howdy
    I have made frame rails and sections for different vehicles and its not real hard for a good fab shop.
    So in the worse case just take it to a local heavy fab shop and have them make you a new one.
    Bad part about any option you go with is welding it in place make sure it is done properly with some preheat to avoid stress cracks on the weld areas. Also I would fish-plate the weld seams. Check the rest of your frame EXTENSIVELY if your front section is this rusted then chances are other parts are not far behind.

    Good Luck!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    USA, Kansas
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I would suggest disconnecting the batteries and completely remove the PCM from the chassis, at least until all the welding is done.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,283

    Default

    Gotta love the Salt.

    I'm gonna make a suggestion.

    Cruise the Craigs list ads for the Portland Oregon area.

    You can pick up a lovely rust free truck CHEAP
    http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/4835159617.html

    The issue you are facing is a tough one.

    The cost of repairing a rusted out frame is a never ending battle when you have the amount of rust you are dealing with

    Out here a truck that's in the early 80's will still likely have most of the factory paint on the frame.

    You can most likely find a 95-99 Burb 4x4 that's going to be virtually pristine for very little $$$

    The cost to repair that frame is going to be far more than what you can replace the rig with a nice clean one from the Northwest (We don't use salt)


    Watch the ads, get a cheapy flight into PDX and drive your prize home.

    Scarf all the good parts from your rig and send the rest to the scrap yard.


    I just picked up a 95 Burb 2500 4x4 with 205 k on the clock for $2k

    It has a new set of BFG all terrains on it, new Radiator, recent tune up, tranny serviced recently, and basically in near perfect condition.

    Personally I would not spend a dime on trying to salvage anything when the rust has gotten that far along.


    Just some thoughts.

    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Unfortunately, I’m facing a similar issue - the driver’s side radiator support is crumbling and needs a solution. The salt and liquid magnesium chloride they use on the roads around here certainly does a number on our vehicles!

    I’m not sure that a 2800 mile roadtrip is my best option, so I’m going to plate up the frame on my own. If you can do it yourself, it’s probably a weekend’s worth of work futzing around. If you have to pay someone else to do it, you’re likely talking a fair chunk of change.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,283

    Default

    If you can do it yourself is the key here.

    I agree 100%
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Gotta love the Salt.

    I'm gonna make a suggestion.

    Cruise the Craigs list ads for the Portland Oregon area.

    You can pick up a lovely rust free truck CHEAP
    http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/4835159617.html

    The issue you are facing is a tough one.

    The cost of repairing a rusted out frame is a never ending battle when you have the amount of rust you are dealing with

    Out here a truck that's in the early 80's will still likely have most of the factory paint on the frame.

    You can most likely find a 95-99 Burb 4x4 that's going to be virtually pristine for very little $$$

    The cost to repair that frame is going to be far more than what you can replace the rig with a nice clean one from the Northwest (We don't use salt)


    Watch the ads, get a cheapy flight into PDX and drive your prize home.

    Scarf all the good parts from your rig and send the rest to the scrap yard.


    I just picked up a 95 Burb 2500 4x4 with 205 k on the clock for $2k

    It has a new set of BFG all terrains on it, new Radiator, recent tune up, tranny serviced recently, and basically in near perfect condition.

    Personally I would not spend a dime on trying to salvage anything when the rust has gotten that far along.


    Just some thoughts.

    Missy
    Couldn't have said it any better.

    If/when its time to let my K2500 go, there's no way in heck I'll be replacing it with an Eastern Canada used vehicle.

    It will be new off the lot or I'll make a nice vacation of driving something back from a salt free zone.

    Heck, I'd rather buy something without having laid eyes on it and have someone ship it rather than buy another salt belt vehicle.

    Engines , transmissions, etc are easy "one time" fixes. Rust is not and it never goes away once its there, you can only slow it down....
    1998 k2500

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,283

    Default

    Yupppp

    Damned use of salt is criminal.

    Eat up a new rig before it's even paid for.

    There is an old fellow here locally that bought a 1959 Ford Ranch Wagon new, and he still drives it today.

    It gets garaged every night (Well usually) and it still has the factory 292 V8 that it came with (Never opened up)

    It has something near 200k on the clock now.

    Stock 3 speed column shift too.

    The body is near perfect and still sports the factory Red and White paint.

    I don't think there are very many of these in this good of shape.


    Ahhhh yess, good old salt.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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