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Thread: Smaller diesel engine, that would replace a gas inline four?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gophergunner View Post
    Fort McMurray eh...I spent a few summers up there working. Its only about 4 hrs drive to edmonton if you follow the flow of traffic.

    Another thing came to mind, if you decide to venture out of Fort Mac for a motor, you could probably squeeze an Isuzu diesel into your truck. Should be quite reliable and long lasting engine, even if its used.

    Just another though
    I'll keep looking, and if I find anything I'll post it up here.

  2. #22
    AKMark is offline Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
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    Diesel engines are getting harder to find in the yards as their demand is gaining with the folks making their own Bio with the high fuel prices.

    That's why I still think a 6.2L is a great choice. It'll fit in the 350 convert kit, you can run the stock rear if you don't tow, offroad, or put a turbo on it. It weighs around 700 lbs, a bit heavy, but doable.

    I know many 6.2L's above 300K and running strong. Parts are another fun thing. While the Jetta motor would be smaller and probably give far better efficiency, the initial cost of getting the motor would be much higher me thinks and if you would have to rebuild it, I bet it will cost more. I could be wrong, but look up the costs to have a foreign motor rebuilt. INSANE!!!


    Plus this is a 6.2/6.5/6.6 site. Gotta promote what we work on!
    05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
    03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
    85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
    82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
    72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project

  3. #23
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    Too bad you aren't back here in the East. There are still lots of VW and Mercedes sitting in junk yards, all rusted out but with good mechanicals. Maybe you would have more luck on the rainy side of the mountains, especially where they use lots of salt on the roads. Buy the whole car as there are bound to be a number of bits and pieces you will need for the conversion.

    Bill
    91 Buick Roadmaster/Avant 6.2 NA conversion (gone but not forgotten)
    94 Cadillac Fleetwood (sold)
    08 Aerolight 23TT
    06 Vortec Max Silverado CC SB (sold)
    10 Avalanche (electronic quagmire but love the truck)

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKMark View Post
    Diesel engines are getting harder to find in the yards as their demand is gaining with the folks making their own Bio with the high fuel prices.

    That's why I still think a 6.2L is a great choice. It'll fit in the 350 convert kit, you can run the stock rear if you don't tow, offroad, or put a turbo on it. It weighs around 700 lbs, a bit heavy, but doable.

    I know many 6.2L's above 300K and running strong. Parts are another fun thing. While the Jetta motor would be smaller and probably give far better efficiency, the initial cost of getting the motor would be much higher me thinks and if you would have to rebuild it, I bet it will cost more. I could be wrong, but look up the costs to have a foreign motor rebuilt. INSANE!!!


    Plus this is a 6.2/6.5/6.6 site. Gotta promote what we work on!
    I missed your post last night..
    I'll make some calls around here. How much would a 6.2L used be worth, probably with 200-300K on the clock? What else would I need to make the swap other than mounts and stuff. Engine, trans...

    Oh, and the hydro boost, what is that exactly?

  5. #25
    AKMark is offline Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
    I missed your post last night..
    I'll make some calls around here. How much would a 6.2L used be worth, probably with 200-300K on the clock? What else would I need to make the swap other than mounts and stuff. Engine, trans...

    Oh, and the hydro boost, what is that exactly?
    Diesel motors (for the most part) do not create vacuum like a gas motor so a vacuum powered brake booster won't work with one. Hydroboost uses a line from the power steering pump to power the brakes. You can get this out of any diesel truck, one ton truck and Astro van's use this. It's really easy to convert it.

    You will need a larger radiator, if you go with an auto, get a good cooler for it as well. A RV size cooler is only $75 at Napa.

    If you can get a donor vehicle, you will get everything you need. If you get the motor on it's own, don't forget the alternator, PS pump, A/C compressor (if equipped), starter (these are spendy), and intake box. These parts are not cheap if you buy them on thier own. If the motor has an A/C compressor, it's not hard to set it up with your current system so you keep your A/C.

    Don't forget that after you install your new motor and trans, you will probably have to get a driveshaft as your current one will probably not be the proper length. Having yours modified to fit shouldn't cost more than $300 and if you are lucky will cost closer to $140. A new one shouldn't be more than $400 and depending on the shop might be even cheaper than resizing yours.

    Your current guages will probably not work with this motor as your ECM will probably be wondering why the injectors and O2 sensors are. I would consider pulling the dash and replacing with aftermarket guages, or at least pull the check engine light and that way it doesn't tick you off being on all the time. The guages might work if you wire them the to proper sensors, just be prepared if it doesn't. Your Tach (if so equipped) will take a bit more work to make it work. I don't know how to start on that one, but there are some resources here that might be able to help you.

    FYI, in a 1985 4x4 Suburban with 31" tires, and 3.54 gears I was getting 24 mpg with a 6.2L, in my 91 with 31" tires and 3.73 gears, I got 22 mpg most of the time. If two 6K vehicles can get this type of mileage, your 3K truck should do quite a bit better. If you can get 3.27 or 3.07 gears you'll probably get over 30, but there are no guarantees.
    05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
    03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
    85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
    82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
    72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project

  6. #26
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    GM offered an S10 with an Isuzu, IIRC, 2.2l diesel. That might be an easy conversion. Isuzu also sold the clone vehicle. Unfortunately, those vehicles are not very common.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  7. #27
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    HH, you are talking about the Isuzu Hombre.

    I've never seen one with a diesel yet, just gas 2.2s.

    I called one of the yards here and they said they didn't know if they had any 6.2s...

    Might call some places in edmonton...

    It may be cheaper to buy an old truck with a 6.2 than to buy just the engine itself..

    Radiators and stuff, I'm sure with a bit of welding and cutting, I could a larger one mounted up.

    My truck has no A/C. No ABS, no air bags. Has power steering though.

    It has no tach either. I'd just make a custom cluster with AutoGauge gauges.. and I'd put a sticker in the glove box with the mileage of the truck when the engine was swapped.
    I'm planning on pretty much restoring the truck as much as I can, and if I had a diesel, I know the engine would last me a while and I could focus on the body or suspension..

    I'm going to see how hard it would be or how much it'd cost to get a larger rear end with a locker or posi and narrow it..


    EDIT: Called a place in edmonton, they said around $3000 for a used 6.2L, just the complete engine, no trans.

  8. #28
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    I was looking at specs on the 6.2 + 6.5 Detroit Diesels on Wikipedia...

    "Common Problems Main bearing web cracks in both 6.2 and 6.5 engines. Reportedly fixed with a combination of improved higher nickel cast iron alloy and lower block re-design including but not limited to a main bearing girdle. These features are in the new for 2007 AM General GEP P400 6500 Optimizer 250-300hp enhanced 6.5 diesel presently being sold to Uncle Sam for the 6ton armored HMMWV.
    Crank failures. Related to age failures of the harmonic balancer, the vibration damped accessory drive pulley, or the dual mass flywheel.
    The PMD (Pump Mounted Driver) thermal failures. The PMD is screwed to the DS-4 injection pump on the 1994-2001 GM 6.5 diesel utilizing fuel flow to dissipate heat. The injection pump is mounted in the intake valley (a high heat area). The PMD contains 2 power transistors that should be cooled by proper contact with the injection pump body. If the pump is not precisely machined to make complete contact with the transistors via the silicone thermal gasket and paste, the PMD is improperly installed without the gasket or paste, the PMD is installed off center with the pump body, or corrosion develops on the mounting surface the PMD will overheat. Several companies manufacture an extension harness and heat-sink kits. These allow an owner or their mechanic to relocate the PMD away from the injection pump to a lower heat environment and/or a place that can get more air flow."



    Is there any way to fix these issues?
    Is there anybody selling new 6.2s? I seen some website that sells redesigned 6.5s, but no 6.2s.

  9. #29
    AKMark is offline Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
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    Don't read too deep into those. Search this site. TONS OF INFO ON THOSE ISSUES!!! Leave Wikopedia alone, there's more and better info here.

    Cracked blocks, they happen, and normally don't affect the normal operation of the motor, and they can be repaired. I had a cracked block, I didn't reuse it, but the machine shop said they could repair it if I wanted to reuse it. Cranks, break normally because they don't like being ground (which many do when rebuilding). You also need to keep the harmonic balancer healthy which many don't verify often enough, and when it dies, so does the crank.

    The PMD issue with the 6.5 can be resolved by relocating the PMD to the nostril in the front bumper so it doesn't overheat.
    05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
    03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
    85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
    82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
    72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project

  10. #30
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    I agree with AKMark - there is a wealth of information on this board with broader, deeper, and more accurate information than you will find on Wikipedia.

    On your question about "new" 6.2 blocks - the last ones GM installed were in the '93 models, so it is getting pretty long in the tooth. Others would know much more than me, but there really wouldn't be much advantage to trying to build a "new" 6.2. You could do a NA 6.5 build if you don't want to mess with the turbo either due to added complexity or increased size. There are a couple NA blocks swapped into cars posted here on the conversion forum that you could take a look at.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
    HH, you are talking about the Isuzu Hombre.

    I've never seen one with a diesel yet, just gas 2.2s.

    EDIT: Called a place in edmonton, they said around $3000 for a used 6.2L, just the complete engine, no trans.
    It would be the Isuzu Pup, same diesel engine as the S10. It would have been the previous generation to your truck. $3000 seems real high for a used 6.2, should be able to buy a whole used truck for that price.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  12. #32
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    put down the phone and start typing, im about to make this all easier for you.

    www.car-part.com

    type in make and model, and the part you want.

    using this service, i found you a 1.6 jetta diesel for $1100 at eskimo auto parts in edmonton, pulled, sitting on the shelf.

    could not find the diesel engine option for either the hombre or the s10. if someone has a specific year to suggest, post it here and we can try again.

    the 6.2 should be easy to find on there.

  13. #33
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    1984 S10, 2.2 diesel.

    Just looked, no matches in Canada

    A bunch in the Staes but mostly out east

    Bill
    91 Buick Roadmaster/Avant 6.2 NA conversion (gone but not forgotten)
    94 Cadillac Fleetwood (sold)
    08 Aerolight 23TT
    06 Vortec Max Silverado CC SB (sold)
    10 Avalanche (electronic quagmire but love the truck)

  14. #34
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    Isn't the 6.5 computer controlled and the 6.2 is mechanical?

  15. #35
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    The 6.2 and early 6.5 are mechanical. In '94 the 6.5 switched over to electronic.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by trbankii View Post
    I agree with AKMark - there is a wealth of information on this board with broader, deeper, and more accurate information than you will find on Wikipedia.

    On your question about "new" 6.2 blocks - the last ones GM installed were in the '93 models, so it is getting pretty long in the tooth. Others would know much more than me, but there really wouldn't be much advantage to trying to build a "new" 6.2. You could do a NA 6.5 build if you don't want to mess with the turbo either due to added complexity or increased size. There are a couple NA blocks swapped into cars posted here on the conversion forum that you could take a look at.
    Quote Originally Posted by HH View Post
    It would be the Isuzu Pup, same diesel engine as the S10. It would have been the previous generation to your truck. $3000 seems real high for a used 6.2, should be able to buy a whole used truck for that price.
    Quote Originally Posted by steponmebbbboom View Post
    put down the phone and start typing, im about to make this all easier for you.

    www.car-part.com

    type in make and model, and the part you want.

    using this service, i found you a 1.6 jetta diesel for $1100 at eskimo auto parts in edmonton, pulled, sitting on the shelf.

    could not find the diesel engine option for either the hombre or the s10. if someone has a specific year to suggest, post it here and we can try again.

    the 6.2 should be easy to find on there.
    Missed your guys posts again.

    @trbankii: this was some aftermarket company selling redesigned 6.5L long blocks, and have "fixed the issues with the original engine".

    @hh: I know, $3000 was a bit expensive... and no trans, and he couldn't tell me the mileage...

    @steponme:Thanks! that site is easier to use than the phone. I had found a complete 6.2 minus trans with 160,000 on it for $1100 on a different site, but I don't have that kinda money right now, if I did, I'd be all over it.

  17. #37
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    Default Busted

    Try to find user name "Busted" on here. He lives out by Edmonton and usually has something kicking around his yard.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

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    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  18. #38
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    Oh, I have another question I just remembered. How do you hook up the glow plugs? any way to hook up a light like the new duramax trucks have in the dash?

  19. #39
    AKMark is offline Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
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    Make it simple. Get a strong switched relay. Wire it so you control it on the dash. Flip the switch for about six seconds prior to starting the motor when cold. When it's warm, run for a second or two if you do it at all. I did that on my 85, worked great. If you crank for five seconds with no reponse, stop cranking and flip the switch again. When it was -50 in Alaska, I'd leave them energized when I started cranking, and would let go of the switch after it was stable. (I was running the 60G plugs which can handle extended glow cycles.)

    One think I forgot to mention that you need, a second battery. Without two batteries you will have starting issues.
    05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
    03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
    85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
    82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
    72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKMark View Post
    Make it simple. Get a strong switched relay. Wire it so you control it on the dash. Flip the switch for about six seconds prior to starting the motor when cold. When it's warm, run for a second or two if you do it at all. I did that on my 85, worked great. If you crank for five seconds with no reponse, stop cranking and flip the switch again. When it was -50 in Alaska, I'd leave them energized when I started cranking, and would let go of the switch after it was stable. (I was running the 60G plugs which can handle extended glow cycles.)

    One think I forgot to mention that you need, a second battery. Without two batteries you will have starting issues.
    Thats no problem, adding batteries.
    With the stereo I plan, I'm gunna have alot more than 2.

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