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Thread: 6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

  1. #1

    Default 6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

    Hello,
    I've got a 6.5 reman long block being delivered tomorrow. I will be replacing a 6.2 in 1985 one ton truck with it. The truck has the 4 speed manual transmission with an Atlas overdrive. My plan is to use a Banks turbo kit on it. Now I am hoping to get some input on the best way to complete this thing. the more I research, the more confused I get. There are a thousand things out there that would seem to be just what I "need"...

    1. I am planning on converting it to a serpentine belt system. What year am I looking for ideally? '97 with a duramax fan sounds very popular, but how much fabrication is involved? There are some pretty pricey aftermarket water pumps on the market, are they necessary? Single thermostat or double? I don't tow a lot, but if I had to...I'm building this with the idea of a cab over camper while towing a boat.

    2. What Injection pump and injectors will suit this? It sounds like the DB-4911(?) is the pump, How do you all feel about the +45 h.p. injectors?

    3. F code intake? It seems to be talked about a lot, but I am hard pressed to find anybody actually claiming any noticable benefits. My lower intake has the EGR stuff and the two part chamber.

    4. Oil pump?

    5. Lift pump?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm not real interested in excessive scavenger hunts for parts and pieces, too much other stuff on my plate at the moment. Nor do I have the time, knowledge or skill set for a whole lot of fabrication. Thanks in advance.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    Hi

    Banks turbo is fine and will serve you well.

    The serp drive can be gleaned from any of the 6.5 engines.

    This said, does your truck have AC ??

    If you have AC you may want to use a serp drive system from a year that closely locates the AC pump to the side it was on.

    Early 6.5 had the AC on the RH side and the alternator on the LH side

    96 and later saw these switched and different pumps used.

    Water pump... The HO pump is the best deal... Go with a dual stat setup.
    I prefer the 180 F stats, especially in warm weather.

    The HO pumps were made with both BOLT ON and SCREW ON fan clutches

    Pick your choice.

    The 4911 IP is the real deal.
    F intake is good.

    Depending on the heads you use will dictate which injector lines will fit.

    DS4 (Electronic type IP ) lines will NOT work

    92-93 were the years of 6.5 that used the 4911

    The 45 hp injectors ??????

    These are HYPE ONLY (The IP is what delivers the fuel)

    Use stock injectors with proper pop pressure.

    Stay away from the Ebay sellers with the rebuilt or high pop stuff

    Get 8 injectors that are either NEW or reman by a local diesel injector shop that knows what they are doing.

    Most important is to have all 8 with pop pressures that are very very close.

    This makes for a very smooth running engine, plus it helps prevent torsional abuse in the crank due to varying timing cyl to cyl.

    Make sure you get a 4911 that is set up properly and not a cosmetic reman.

    OIL PUMP

    Depending on which block you are getting ????

    Is it a later series with the oil squirters in the main webs ???

    Use the stock pump

    Squirt blocks use a higher volume pump than non squirt blocks.

    It is very important to get the right pump.

    Put a standard pump on a squirt block and you will have zip oil pressure when the thing warms up.

    Put a HIGH VOLUME pump on a non squirt block and the oil pressure will be off in the ozones.

    Idle hot on a squirt block is about 10-20 psi and 40 running

    The non squirt blocks run higher oil pressure at idle and about 45-50 running.

    The lift pump needs to be a stock type 6.5 electric or EQUIVALENT

    No more than 5 psi delivery but needs to be able to pump 20 GPH volume.

    THE 6.2 likely had a mechanical lift pump on the engine.

    You can use the fuel pump mounting boss on the engine (If it has one) to bolt on a cover to connect your turbo oil drain.

    BE SURE THE FUEL PUMP BOSS IS DRILLED THROUGH TO THE CRANK CASE.

    An easy trick is to use a plate with a JIC fitting in it or a push lock fitting for the turbo oil drain.

    Some Franken parts needed to gitterdone

    You will likely need to make a few mods to things to get the dual stat crossover to live happily with the throttle cable/brackets.

    A little bit of wiring magic will be needed.

    You can locate the cold advance switch just as it was on the 6.2
    (RH cyl head)
    Some rigs of the mid 80's used a glow plug inhibit switch along with the cold advance switch on the RH head.

    If you have Glow inhibit it will likely be on the top rear of the RH head.
    Remove the switch and connect the wires together.

    This was used to keep the glow plugs from cycling when the engine was warm.

    The cold advance switch was on the RH head at the lower rear by the exh manifold in this style.

    Your 85 may not have the inhibit system.

    My 86 did.
    We were traveling and stayed overnight at a little po dunk motel in the middle of nowhere and the next morning was cold and snowy and NO GLOW

    Luckily I knew of the glow inhibit switch.
    Bypassed it with a paperclip and covered it with masking tape to get home.

    The glow controller can be used as is with the same brackets.

    Use 60G Delco glow plugs.


    The DMAX fan is a nice choice and will move some serious air.

    Good luck and have fun

    Please share some pix
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for that. That's a lot of good information.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  4. #4

    Default

    How do I know if I have a squirt block or not? It's supposed to be a optimizer block and heads. It's got 506 stamped on the walls of the valley and it has two V's that make a diamond shape in the valley, which, if I understand correctly are the markings of an optimizer.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
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    IT'S A Squirt block.

    Use the high volume pump listed for the later 6.5
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
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    Default

    The <> indicates that the block was cast by navistar.

    The only way to know if it was/is an optimizer is to look at the Julian date code on the block

    The date code will tell when the block was cast.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
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    The Julian date on the AMG BLOCKS ARE AS FOLLOWS

    XX XX FOLLOWED BY A SINGLE LETTER

    Example
    10 06 H

    H was 2001
    I was not used
    J was 2002
    K =2003
    Ect.

    Look at your date code (RH Rear block behind the head and in front of the bell housing flange)

    This will tell you when the block was cast
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  8. #8

    Default

    well, that is an undecipherable blob.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  9. #9

    Default

    More questions...low on the right side of the block toward the front of the engine is an opening... what goes there? And in the valley against the firewall is an opening, what goes there? on my 6.2 I think its the vacuum pump in that spot. Near as I can tell on the 6.5 the vacuum pump is pulley driven off the serpentine belt. It sounds like some people just do away with the vacuum pump, what do I need vacuum for? Now that I'm moving from a mechanical lift pump to an electrical lift pump can I just wire that to ignition power, an on/off scenario or do I need to work in a solenoid? What does the solenoid do?
    I Know I sound like a 6 year old with a million questions, I appreciate your patience.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Mechanical fuel pump.
    Oil pump drive (and vacuum pump on early models). A tachometer sender is also available with the oil pump drive.

    Vacuum is necessary for ECM controlled wastegate and emission system components. If you don't have, or are not using either, vacuum is not necessary on late model trucks. Earlier models (prior to 88-91, depending on model) may require vacuum for HVAC control. Your 1985 chassis, if OEM, will require vacuum for HVAC control. If it originally did not have A/C, the controls may be manually operated, and not need vacuum. I am not aware of a mechanical solution to retain the original A/C and vent control (even if you omit A/C), without vacuum, although an electric vacuum pump system may work. Vacuum is not necessary for brake booster operation, as all GM Diesel trucks use hydraulic power (PS pump and hydroboost system).

    The use of an electrical fuel pump requires the use of a fail-safe. Early 6.5L models use only an oil pressure switch (OPS), and later models rely on the ECM for control of a relay. In your case, I would recommend an OPS to power a relay (solenoid), which powers the fuel pump. Kennedy Diesel offers a packaged solution, if it gets too confusing. In any case, it is not safe (nor lawful) to have a fuel pump powered solely by the ignition switch, or any other method that would allow the fuel lift pump to run when the engine is not. The only exception is for momentary operation for the purpose of fuel system priming, such as pre-start or fuel filter changes.

    6 year-old's with a million questions are welcome here.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks!
    I'd like to keep the AC, so a vacuum pump it is. Does it matter what style I use?, the vacuum pump/oil pump driver combo unit in the valley seems like the simplest solution.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Arrow

    If you don't have a reason to not want the rear mounted vacuum pump, I see no reason to not use it. It would simplify your accessory drive belt situation. Just make sure to include that into your serpentine belt upgrade plan.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  13. #13

    Default

    cool,
    When shopping, it looks like I'm buying for a 6.2 application, which I assume is no big deal. Downside is, I don't see one that will support a tach, which would seem to be the easiest way to get a tach... can't have your cake and eat it too I guess.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  14. #14

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    I got the old 6.2 out of the truck the other day. I've got the engines side by each and am sorting out obvious differences, and I found one. In the valley toward the back of the engine just up on the wall of the drivers side is a small threaded port that appears to go all the way through. This is not on my 6.2, does this have a purpose or do I just tape up a bolt and plug it up? Also, I've got serpentine belt components, including AC, off a '93 heading my way. If I go with the 6.2 vacuum pump will I need to use an idler pulley(?) in place of the belt driven vacuum pump to keep things whole. Thanks again for all the help.
    Last edited by 3and3oneton; 04-15-2017 at 16:01.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
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    Please post a piccy of the port in the valley.

    This in likely the extra oil pressure port, but want to see exactly what you are referring to.

    If this port is what I think you are referring, it is the same thread as the oil pressure switch and can be plugged with a pipe plug as it is an extra oil galley access.

    You can use the serp style vacuum pump as an idler and just not worry about it, or you can drop in the later style oil pump drive that does not have a pump on it.

    Just run a hose to the pump up front.

    Several options.

    Having the pump (pulley) in the serp setup is common even when not used, and no sense in buying stuff if ya already got it.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  16. #16

    Default

    here it is. Happy Easter!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
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    OIL PRESSURE PORT.

    If you don't need it plug it with a pipe plug.

    Its on the same line as the one in the rear that the oil pressure switch goes to.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  18. #18

    Default

    Perfect. Thanks. Could a guy plug in a oil temp probe in that hole? I like gauges, makes me feel important.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Hole not deep enough.

    Real time useful oil temp would be a probe in the pan to measure what the engine is working with.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  20. #20

    Default

    Word, thanks. I'm checking out to work for a couple of weeks. Got a list of stuff to get ordered and when I get home I'll start putting it all together. Should have more questions at that point as well. Thanks for all your help so far! I'll post some pics when I've got something cool to show.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

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