Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 31

Thread: Whats needed to change fuel filter

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    30

    Default Whats needed to change fuel filter

    I have an 06 Duramax and want to change the fuel filter myself. Are there any special tools needed and can anyone tell me how to do it or direct me to a link with instructions? Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    299

    Default

    A six pack and patience. Band aids and towels...

    In all seriousness, it does go over the process in the Owner's manual. I haven't changed mine out yet (still under 5k miles). But it looks fairly simple and straight forward. The owners manual and some mechanic friends recommend taking off the front passeneger side fenderwell. I will do that the first time out and see if I can skip that step the next time. (Some claim to change it without removing the fenderwell)


    I'm sure someone here will chime in with step-by-step instructions.
    2007 Silverado, 3500HD, 4X4, CC, Long Bed, SRW, LMM Diesel, Navi, DVD, Roll-N-Lock Cover, ICI Running Boards, CoastalEtech GM Lockpick for DVD/Nav changes in Motion, Back-up Camera...

    2006.5 VW Jetta Special Edition TDI - Blue Graphite - European Spec VW Fact. Nav Radio.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    740

    Thumbs up

    Hey DAKSTER! Try just taking the air intake tube off. The one between the air filter housing and the hard plastic intake piece.. I did that on a 2007 Sierra calssic and it worked great and I only need a 5/16 nut driver to remove it. This will also work on the 2006!!!
    1998 Chevy k-2500 454 147,000 miles and climbing!

    1993 Pontiac G/A Big Block 3.3 Liter 140,000 miles and still going too!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    The filters can be a bit of a PITA to replace, but it's not complicated. On my 2001, it's easy to replace w/o removing anything but the filter, but the 2001's have a bit more room in the area. Mine comes out through the top. Removing the fender liner makes it accessible in later model trucks, but some folks can get it out through the wheel opening by flexing the liner. Problem is getting it back in. Careful to not knock a bunch of dirt/stuff onto the filter before getting it engaged. For your first change, I suggest removing the liner. After that, you'll have a better look at it to help with future changes. Removing the liner is no big deal, so you may decide to just keep that strategy. For removal, you will very likely need a wrench, of sorts, to loosen it. I suggest a webbing type strap wrench. Mine is about as simple as it gets. It accepts a 1/2" drive extension, and I use an 18" breaker bar on top of the 10" extension. With the extension, you don't have to worry about dinging up anything while turning it, and sometimes it takes significant force. Use it from above or below, whichever is easiest. Here's a couple pics of what I use:






    Step by step? OK.

    Disconnect the WIF sensor harness. Just follow it from the bottom of the filter to the connector.

    Place a container below the filter to catch the fuel you will drain from it (draining is not required, but a LOT less messy). Open the plastic thumbscrew drain valve at the bottom of the filter. If you have a piece of 1/4" hose laying around, it will slip onto the valve so you can direct the drain anywhere you want. Open/remove the top bleeder screw. Careful with this, it's plastic. Use a nut driver rather than a screwdriver to help prevent damage. Let it drain. Once the fuel stops draining, close the drain valve and remove your container. Immediately water-wash down any fuel that spills on the frame. The fuel will dissolve the wax coating, exposing bare steel to rust later.

    Next, remove the filter. If it loosens by hand, all the better. It probably won't, so get the strap wrench on it and loosen until you can finish by hand. Be very careful with the WIF harness. Be sure it isn't between the filter and wrench when you loosen it. Once the filter is loose and out, inventory your seals. You will have a large O-ring and a grommet type seal. If the grommet isn't still attached to the center hole in the filter, fish it off the filter assembly nipple.

    Replace the WIF sensor O-ring. Be careful with the fitting at the bottom of the filter, it's plastic. You can use a box wrench (don't know what size, but it's huge), water pump pliers (I don't recommend it, but I use it), or the best is a special wrench manufactured/sold by JK at www.kennedydiesel.com. Install the WIF fitting with the new supplied O-ring and some lube or grease. Don't overtighten, it's plastic and O-ring sealed.

    Use some lube in the filter top groove to accept the large O-ring, and press the new O-ring into the groove. W/o lube or grease, the O-ring won't stay in place (holds a suction to keep it in). I use gear lube, but you can use axle grease, dielectric grease or motor oil. Thicker the better. Be sure the new rubber grommet is in the center hole of the filter top and smear some oil/lube on the inside.

    Line up and thread the new filter onto the assy. Get it as tight as you can by hand. Some folks, like JK, stop there and say it works w/o leaking. I've never been so lucky. You can try it, but if you have "stalls after start", it's leaking and will either need the O-ring checked for proper install, or tighten it with the wrench. Again, be careful to not get the WIF sensor harness between the filter and wrench. Once it's tight, plug in the WIF harness and check the drain to be sure it's closed.

    Open the top bleeder about 2-3 turns. Pump the primer until you see fuel (any squirt). Close the bleeder and pump again until it's hard (necessary to prime the HP pump). A LOT of pumping is not uncommon, like 100+ strokes.

    Check for tools and start. A little RPM surging for about 30 seconds after start is normal while the system purges air. If it stays running and you don't have leaks, you're done. If you park it overnight (after being warmed up) and it starts then dies, you have an air leak. Loosen the filter and check the large O-ring. Make sure it stayed in the groove and retighten. Pump up the primer until hard and repeat starting.

    That's it....I think. If I've left anything out, I'm sure someone will speak up.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5

    Default

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...spagenameZWDVW

    I keep one of these and a spare filter in each truck, after nearly being stranded last winter when severe cold and poor quality fuel conspired to plug my filter. There are cheaper versions of this wrench around, this one also has a wide flat screwriver like tool machined into the opposite end for opening the bleeder valve easily.

    At first I kept a filter wrench around, but have learned that if you simply tighten by hand, they don't leak and are easier to get on and off quickly that way. A pair of mechanix gloves added to your 'emergency kit' really helps as well for getting a better grip.

    I have done two replacements while on the road, and its great peace of mind to have your kit bagged up and ready to go under the back seat, especially on I-90 in South Dakota 100 miles from nowhere, blowing snow and -20 temps...
    2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.3L daily driver
    • Previous owner of two 1994 6.5L K3500s, '01, '02, and '05 6.6L K2500s, '04 C4500, '06 K3500 dually, '06 K3500 SRW, '09 K3500HD SRW, '05 Denali
    • Total GM diesel miles to date : ~950K

  6. #6
    NutNbutGMC Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    The filters can be a bit of a PITA to replace, but..................That's it....I think. If I've left anything out, I'm sure someone will speak up.
    Thanks for the info from the bote of yEE...


    :tiphat:

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    White Hall, AR
    Posts
    99

    Thumbs up

    Much too long, here's the simplified version:

    1. Drop the Passenger Inner fender
    2. Unlpug the WIF sensor
    3. Twist off the Old filter
    4. Install new fuel filter & O-rings if applicable. Reconnect WIF sensor.
    5. Open Bleed Screw and Prime w/ the Pump, close bleed screw
    6. Crank engine, check for leaks
    7. Re-install inner fender & Enjoy!


    ** On a site note ** Thanks Duramaster, I may try the intake-removal next time around. I hate those little plastic pegs you've gotta pull on the fenders.
    2002 Pewter 2500HD D/A EC SB 4wd Warn 12K SOLD! 103k miles
    2007 White 2500HD CC SB LBZ 4wd Warn 12K Stock

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Rogers Mn
    Posts
    140

    Default Tool for Removing Pegs

    I was wondering if they make a special tool for removing the pegs out of the keeper. Prying them with screwdrivers gets hard on the hands ..
    2002 Silverado DA combo 4 whl CC.
    New longblock 138252 Miles , Sill protectors
    Husky flaps
    SS Nerf Bars , Access Cover\' Coverall mats ,Lovern smoked bug shield , Dual Power Seats ,W,T.Tinted Vent Shades
    http://www.picturetrail.com/deerhunter7

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by deerhunter7 View Post
    I was wondering if they make a special tool for removing the pegs out of the keeper. Prying them with screwdrivers gets hard on the hands ..
    Yes. I have one. The tool was designed for locksmithing as a wedge/door tool, but also pops the fasteners easily without damaging them. My brother is a locksmith and he turned me onto it. It's item #574967 and costs $12, wholesale. Call Foley-Belsaw at 1-800-821-3452. It may only be available to registered locksmiths (although it's not a security compromising tool), but I can get them through my brother.

    Pictures:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by deerhunter7 View Post
    I was wondering if they make a special tool for removing the pegs out of the keeper. Prying them with screwdrivers gets hard on the hands ..
    Spray the stems with CRC spray dieselctric grease and they'll glide right out next time. I have a trim panel tool that works well too, but the lube thing is most important.

    The only tool really required for the fuel filter service is the WIF sensor wrench. The rest should be do-able by hand. A strap wrench if the filter gets stuck, but hand should do it. And through the fender well is how I do it. In a pinch I have done them from above.

    Be sure to only finger tighten the bleeder. No need to reef on it.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rinker View Post
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...spagenameZWDVW

    I keep one of these and a spare filter in each truck, after nearly being stranded last winter when severe cold and poor quality fuel conspired to plug my filter. There are cheaper versions of this wrench around, this one also has a wide flat screwriver like tool machined into the opposite end for opening the bleeder valve easily.

    At first I kept a filter wrench around, but have learned that if you simply tighten by hand, they don't leak and are easier to get on and off quickly that way. A pair of mechanix gloves added to your 'emergency kit' really helps as well for getting a better grip.

    I have done two replacements while on the road, and its great peace of mind to have your kit bagged up and ready to go under the back seat, especially on I-90 in South Dakota 100 miles from nowhere, blowing snow and -20 temps...

    Holy over priced tool Batman!

    I'm sure it works well but Lisle make a comparable wrench that's commonly available for under $10 and can be bought on e-bay for around $6.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...QQcmdZViewItem
    Last edited by Rabbler; 11-21-2007 at 12:46. Reason: added link

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    ortonville, mi
    Posts
    133

    Default

    is the WIF sensor wrench a specialty tool?
    http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/image.php
    07 GMC CC SB LBZ
    70 monte carlo, original 4 spd, bench seat
    71 monte carlo SS clone, street/strip
    97 grand am, beater

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Yes it is a specialty tool.
    That's not saying you can't remove it with a pair of pliers but it's made of plastic and can easily crack. I think it's about $80 to replace the sensor.
    Even a small crack could cause driveability issues as the fuel system is under vacuum at that point

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    ortonville, mi
    Posts
    133

    Default

    may I ask where to purchase one....please
    http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/image.php
    07 GMC CC SB LBZ
    70 monte carlo, original 4 spd, bench seat
    71 monte carlo SS clone, street/strip
    97 grand am, beater

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Owego, NY
    Posts
    1,929

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. monte View Post
    may I ask where to purchase one....please


    Here's one outlet: Lisle 34350 ...

    or Google Lisle Duramax sensor wrench

    I also have one of these ... works great ...

    Bill
    03 2500HD D/A CC/SB/4WD,OilGuard, MegaFilter,LiftPump/PreFilter, Bilsteins,RetraxRollTop,J&J Boards,Coolant Filter,AlliDeepPan,FastIdle,AllHeadLightsOn,
    98 K3500 6.5,SOLD

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DarylB View Post
    Much too long, here's the simplified version:

    1. Drop the Passenger Inner fender
    2. Unlpug the WIF sensor
    3. Twist off the Old filter
    4. Install new fuel filter & O-rings if applicable. Reconnect WIF sensor.
    5. Open Bleed Screw and Prime w/ the Pump, close bleed screw
    6. Crank engine, check for leaks
    7. Re-install inner fender & Enjoy!
    Is this approach the best for the 2002 duramax? thx

  17. #17

    Default

    bump to top

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by bradmd View Post
    Is this approach the best for the 2002 duramax? thx
    Yes. Except between steps 5 and 6, after the bleeder is closed, it needs to be pumped up until hard. This should be for all year models. And, if you have a leak, you won't likely notice it unless the engine dies. The fuel system is suction from the tank to the HP pump.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Maplesville, AL - Home Base
    Posts
    536

    Default

    I must be the only one and I'm sure someone will tell me I'm wrong, but I don't want to go in through the wheel well (too much dirt). There isn't room that I can find to maneuver the filter in around and through all of the a/c lines. What works best for me is removing the right side battery (Yes I do tape up the positive lead before going further). There are two leads and 1 nut that holds the battery in and then I have plenty of room not only above the filter, but to the outside where my hands, arms, and filter wrench fits fine. I can actually get both hands on the filter and rarely have to use the wrench anyway.

    Works well for me and I have done it three times and not an air leak yet (I'm in trouble now).

    Ed
    Ed
    KM4STL

    '06 Sierra LBZ 4x4 Crew SB, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, TTT/Schefenacker Mirrors
    '98 Suburban, 245,000 - sold 7-4-06

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Morrisville, VT, USA
    Posts
    2,399

    Default

    Why bother removing the fender well at all? I just cut out an odd shaped panel to allow access to the fuel filter, (being careful not to hit any wires or tubes on the inside, out of sight) and then made a replacement cover for that opening out of good, stiff, but flexible plastic. Fasten back on with about 6 number 8 SS sheet metal screws, and you're in business for next time, and on and on. Again, being careful to drill and screw where you won't pierce anything you don't want to. I find this a whole lot easier than wrestling with the fender liner, especially with an electric screw driver.
    DW
    2008 Jaco Seneca 35' motor home (Kodiak 5500 chassis). Pulling 18' Wells Cargo enclosed trailer, with 2016 Miata in it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •