NV4500 Clutch Hydraulics

[BrIONwoshMunky]

So, while I was in the process of removing a broken starter bolt and replacing the missing starter bracket on the Ole Crashwagon, I had to remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing so I could drop out the starter.

I guess when I reassembled it, I didn't have something aligned properly and had an overly stiff clutch pedal... until it dropped to the floor. Due, in no small part, to the effort with which I was 'persuading' it to go in that direction.

ANYWHO, I'm going to have to replace the master and slave now. Looks to me like the lines are held in place by a flared end, with a roll-key/pin to keep them against the seal, and prevent them from backing out.

The new parts pack has a roll-pin, a seal, and a cotter key. There doesn't appear to be anywhere obvious to me to use the cotter key except inside of the roll key as a keeper.

I was just hoping someone had some insight, and could maybe verify if that's where it is supposed to go. Napa Parts guy wasn't much help...

Thanks!

Also, thanks to Jim, Lee, and the others for compiling the 6.2L troubleshooting guides! They helped immensely in finding the right starter parts.

[trbankii]

First question - when you reassembled everything, did you bleed the air out of the system?

Yes, IIRC the cotter pin goes through the roll pin to hold it in place. I'd have to go take a look to make sure (it's been a few years since I worked on mine), but I'm pretty sure I remember that step.

[a5150nut]

Any time you are going to move the slave cylinder you MUST remove the line at both ends. Both master and slave are plastic and ANY side loading will result in one or the other failing.

I had to drive across San Jose in rush hour traffic with a broken master after doing a clutch change. It is not fun and ANY movement in the line will cause cracking in one end or the other.

[BrIONwoshMunky]

First question - when you reassembled everything, did you bleed the air out of the system?

Yes, IIRC the cotter pin goes through the roll pin to hold it in place. I'd have to go take a look to make sure (it's been a few years since I worked on mine), but I'm pretty sure I remember that step.

Nope, didn't bleed air, never got that far as fluid that was in the cylinders was exiting the cylinders, but not the line, thus I surmised that they needed replaced. I suspect I blew the master when I was being ham-footed and trying to force everything to work. I'm thinking when I replaced the slave, that the rod wasn't aligned properly and wasn't actuating anything when I was pressing in the pedal. With nowhere to go, the fluid took the path of least resistance and blew the seals in the master. After I belatedly realized what I had probably done, I removed and looked at the slave again, and found it was leaking fluid as well. While I MAY have been okay just replacing the master, I figured that replacing both units at the same time wouldn't probably be the worst idea I've ever had. The master was an order item, and the slave was on the shelf, so I'd have had to wait a day anyways, and figured that now I'll have both parts if it takes both, and I can return the slave if I find that I only need the master.

And thanks for the cotter help.

[BrIONwoshMunky]

Sorry for the double-post, but here's a picture of the parts pack, for reference. I'll try and grab a few photos during/after the install to update this a bit for everyone else.