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Thread: p.o.s. 6.0 swap out

  1. #1

    Default p.o.s. 6.0 swap out

    Hi everyone well i decided to do some research on my 2002 2500hd 6.0 to find out what the real deal with this annoying piston slap/knock was. and I found thousands of complaints on this engine. So I decided to investigate what engine i could put in there (other than the 6.0) does anyone know what would be a good one> ive heard of some other issuses with other engines of the same modle year> what would be a good fit cheapest and easiest. is there anything else i should know. any input on this matter would sure be appreiciated

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Welcome aboard!

    The "easiest and cheapest" would be a 5.3L gasser. You'll give up a lot of power, but they are good engines.

    The "easiest and not-as-cheapest" would be an 8.1L big block gasser. Lot's of power, for a gasser, very reliable, and you may pick up some economy, depending on your driving habits (otherwise, your economy will go into the crapper, and you'll be buying a lot of tires).

    Either of the gassers would be an easy(er) swap, as all the required/desired components will be a direct swap, and electricals should be a snap. You will need to swap in the correct ECM for them. Also, the original trannies (and TCM, if applicable) with these engines would also have to go with them, or you may end up with some costly/difficult adaptation. It could be a simple swap, if yours is a manual. The 8.1L will need the ZF-6 manual, if you plan on any serious workloads.

    The "not-so-easiest and not-so-cheapest" would be the Duramax. LOTS of good reading on that in the Conversions Forum. It will also need the accompanying tranny and associated electronics, including some instrumentation changes. Several of these swaps have been done and documented.

    That said......
    Other than the piston slap, what is it you don't like about your 6.0L? They are generally very reliable with adequate power, for a gasser. The piston slap, according to GM and owners I am familiar with, it's just an annoying noise, and no actual damage is occurring. Your experience may be different, but I don't think you can attribute any failure specifically to the slap issue.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3

    Default

    thanks for the quick reply. well I think I have both piston slap and an engine knock. i googled piston slap/knock and found a ton of complaints from people who had a piston sieze up. and it sounds horrible extremely loud and its getting worse everyday. I just have a bad feeling that it wont last much longer so i figure i should start my research now I bought the truck with 69,000 miles on it didnt knock at all when i bought it but once i got about 84,000 (it now has 93,000) it started knockin and has gotten way worse since then if this pattern continues i fear the worst. it is an automatic and i really have no issues with it it has always started for me and has never failed me but i would like a little more power i have a lift and 35inch tires and the more power the better i still owe alot on this truck and have no plans on selling or trading in (would like to have no truck payment at some point in life) the 8.1 so far sounds like the best fit for me and my truck i will do some searching to find out prices will the 8.1 have the piston slap do they have short skirts too will the engine tranny mounts be the same what year engine will it have to be and will i have to change fuel pump? thanks for all the help

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Your frame will accommodate the 8.1L swap, but I don't know about cross members. You may have to import them, as well.

    They don't have the piston slap. Some have a short cold start knock, but it's different, and non-destructive.

    Your choices may be limited by your state's emissions requirements. You'll have to check that. If you replace your engine with one of the same year, you should have the easiest time with the swap, and your state, as well.

    Don't know about the gasser fuel pumps, but I'd think they would be compatible. Should be a matter of comparing part #'s and specs. The Duramax doesn't have a lift pump in the tank (or anywhere, for that matter).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5

    Default

    1) Rebuild the stock 6.0L shortblock bored .030 over with a balanced rotating assembly and some high-snoot pistons/rings.

    2) Add a centrifugal supercharger kit by Paxton, Magnacharger, Whipple, etc. with a matched camshaft.

    3) Add some additional fuel delivery, gauges and ignition upgrades.

    4) Make your right foot happy and go like stink. http://www.undrprsr.com/index.php?op...d=47&Itemid=40
    2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.3L daily driver
    • Previous owner of two 1994 6.5L K3500s, '01, '02, and '05 6.6L K2500s, '04 C4500, '06 K3500 dually, '06 K3500 SRW, '09 K3500HD SRW, '05 Denali
    • Total GM diesel miles to date : ~950K

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    1,177

    Default

    I've had three 6.ohs and they all had the carbon/cold start knock at some time or another. The only problem I had with any of them was a cracked pass side exhaust manifold and blew two spark plugs out of the heads with a big shot of spray. Not bad for nearly 600k on three 6.0Ls. Are you positive it's not and exhaust leak? I fixed one yesterday that had two broken exhaust manifold bolts that sounded just like it and cracked manifolds are not uncommon with aftermarket exhaust systems installed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Morgantown, W.Va. USA
    Posts
    1,002

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rinker View Post
    1) Rebuild the stock 6.0L shortblock bored .030 over with a balanced rotating assembly and some high-snoot pistons/rings...
    I agree with the rebuild. 30 over pistons, clean up the heads, a set of headers and air intake, add a tune without the torque management and I think you'll like it just fine. The 402 stroker kit (6.0L is 364 cu in) is also a viable option, but is a bit pricey.
    JP
    Jeff

    "But officer, I ain't Speedin', I'm just flyin' low"

    2001 Silverado 3500 Dually LS Ext Cab, 6.6L Diesel, Banks Stinger Kit, 4" Exhaust, VR Straps, Bilstein shocks, 255/85/16 BFG KM2s
    2004 Suburban 2500 LT 6.0L 4x4, Bilstein Shocks, Federico front/rear sway bars
    1996 Caprice 5.7L LT1, B4U Suspension, KYB shocks & Hotchkis sway bars, BMR RCA - alas I miss ya.
    2013 Caprice PPV 6.0L

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cushing Oklahoma
    Posts
    72

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rinker View Post
    1) Rebuild the stock 6.0L shortblock bored .030 over with a balanced rotating assembly and some high-snoot pistons/rings.

    2) Add a centrifugal supercharger kit by Paxton, Magnacharger, Whipple, etc. with a matched camshaft.

    3) Add some additional fuel delivery, gauges and ignition upgrades.

    4) Make your right foot happy and go like stink. http://www.undrprsr.com/index.php?op...d=47&Itemid=40
    yea! what he said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  9. #9

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    2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.3L daily driver
    • Previous owner of two 1994 6.5L K3500s, '01, '02, and '05 6.6L K2500s, '04 C4500, '06 K3500 dually, '06 K3500 SRW, '09 K3500HD SRW, '05 Denali
    • Total GM diesel miles to date : ~950K

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