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Thread: Rebuilt IP....no fuel coming out....

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Rebuilt IP....no fuel coming out....

    As the title says...I just had the IP rebuilt and I have fuel pulsing out the return line on top...I am suspecting the LP...I get a beer bottle full of fuel after 17 seconds of cranking....Opinions? I'll try a few other things but I plan on replacing the LP.

    So, to reiterate, IP has fuel...pulses steadily from the return outlet...but...NOTHING out the injector lines!!!...All GP's are out and I have a new starter with great cranking speed....

    Also, if I rig a temporary fuel tank above the IP should it function as normal???

    Even your wildest suggestions are welcome!

    Ben

  2. #2
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    If you are getting fuel to the IP, a completely dead LP wouldn't prevent a start, especially on a fresh IP. If the LP isn't dripping fuel from the weep hole and is lifting fuel, it is probably good. A beer bottle of fuel in 17 seconds is plenty, and indicates your LP is pushing fuel at a sufficient rate. Pressure is not necessarily relevant. Any pressure above zero is enough. If the system is primed, a healthy IP will draw enough fuel to start and run.

    Something to check, is that the IP is actually turning with the engine. Remove the oil filler pipe and actually look into it while cranking. The gear and shaft should be turning.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    Make sure when you turn the key on that the IP goes CLICK.

    RED/PINK heavy wire to the fuel shut off solenoid up top of IP

    Make sure there is 12 volts to that connection.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
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    Default

    Sorry, should have also mentioned the pink wire makes a nice click....

    Ben

  5. #5
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    Hmmmmm

    With the glow plugs out and fuel to the IP, you should get a good fog of fuel blowing out the plug holes within about 30- 40 seconds of cranking.

    No longer than a minute with the engine free to spin.

    Something is amiss here
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #6
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    That could be....the guy that rebuilt the pump seams honest so far....but I haven't ever dealt with him prior to this.

    So, today I'm going to rig a temp fuel tank and isolate the return into a jug o diesel......We shall see what happens.....

    Ben

  7. #7
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    Keep in mind, once the injectors start popping (injecting fuel), the other end of the return line will start pushing fuel. If you disconnect the return line at the IP, both ends need to go to a container. You can also catch the return line at the rear of the engine, which will have the injector and IP returns Tee'd together. Since you are going that far, I suggest a loop of clear hose on the return line. A vertical loop will catch and show any air going through the system (bubbles). If you do this, just reconnect the return line and let it return to the tank.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  8. #8
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    JUST AN FYI

    Any reputable builder is going to run the IP on a test bench and see how it does.

    If this was a small shop that simply cleaned and installed a "Soft parts kit" all bets are OFF

    Without the thing having been run on a test bench there is no way to know anything.

    If it was tested, it SHOULD GO RIGHT TO WORK

    I'm starting to get a bad feeling about this deal.

    Hope it comes out ok
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #9
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    It's the injector pump....The FSS is good & has 12volts...

    While cranking, fuel flows out the return....but, if I disconnect the pink wire the fuel stops flowing from the return.....injector lines are disconnected @ the pump NOT one drop of fuel!!! Even with the temp tank above the pump....fuel enters the IP but only exits out the return!!!

    So...I'm gunna rip that pump out and bring it back to the guy....we'll see what happens..............

    Ben

  10. #10
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    This sounds like your original problem, with your original (PO said it was shot) IP. Same pump, same problem. If you took it to someone and they said they fixed it, they didn't. As Robyn said, these should only be rebuilt by "Stanadyne Authorized" repair shops. They will have the correct test/calibration bench to verify it is operating within spec before you get it back. Others can do it, but it's a crap-shoot. If you don't have a good shop around, it's best to exchange for a reman from a reputable dealer.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #11
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    That's the thing...he supposedly has a bench.....and has told me that he pressure tested it.....got me wondering now....

    We'll see what he has to say....

    BTW I have another shop I can go to.....but I have heard good things about this guy so I went with him......

    Ben

  12. #12
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    Howdy
    As Dmax said...find a shop that is Stanadyne authorized and trained or trade it in for a reman. Just make sure the reman comes from a stanadyne shop.
    Good luck!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  13. #13
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    Just saw in your post that you are in MN. I know a good shop in the Duluth area....
    They have rebuilt two pumps and many injectors for me and never gone wrong.
    Jim at Turbo Diesel Injection Service in Duluth.
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  14. #14
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    MN
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    Sooooooooo....He did NOT pressure test this pump!!!....Just reassembled with good parts!!!....Now when I gave him this pump I made sure he would test it on the bench.....he said he would do a "Pretest" before he cracked it open!!! He did not!!!

    I have talked to him today....that's when he told me that he didn't ever pressure test this pump....He said that he'll make it right...even reimburse me if I have to get another core....I've spent $300 so far on this....Should I just ask for my money back and go elsewhere??? Or, should I just let him finish what he started?

    Suggestions...

    (sorry...kinda venting!)

    Ben

  15. #15
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    Howdy
    IMHO....IF he has a real test bench, IF this is a real shop that works on these pumps regularly, IF you feel that he can be trusted to do what he says.... then I would stick with him.
    Again, MY OPINION, if any of those criteria were not satisfied then I would go someplace else.
    Another thing to consider is if he will give you a refund for the work that he admitted to NOT doing. Personally, my trust in this shop would be very low at this point.
    Hope this helps!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  16. #16
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    MN
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    He says he prefers working on these older DB pumps....Yes real shop...he is the master mechanic/owner at the repair shop...and does all the pumps himself.

    My trust is also on the low side....but if he is willing to right his wrong then I think I'm willing to stick with it...

    BTW....I had him rebuilding a core from a friend before this one...it turned out to be bad...So, I had to pull the blazer pump. He found that out because he pressure tested THAT one.....

    Ben

  17. #17
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    Get your $$$$ back and leave with as good a feelings as possible.

    GO TO a Stanadyne authorized shop that has a real pump test bench and get the job done right.

    A lousy IP rebuild, even if it works is just not the way to go.

    Back in the days of old (and little $$$) I did a soft parts kit on a DB and replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid.

    The IP worked OK but I have no clue how close to spec it was.

    These need to be done right.

    Get a set of well matched Squirts too.

    Having the injectors all popping really close to the same pressure is very important in having a smooth running engine.

    Proper pop pressure also makes them start really good too.

    Good luck
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  18. #18
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Get your $$$$ back and leave with as good a feelings as possible.

    GO TO a Stanadyne authorized shop that has a real pump test bench and get the job done right.
    I concur with Robyn. Some things are just best left to the actual pros.

    I purchased a rebuilt pump and injectors from an online source one time, and while they worked okay, the engine had a lope I could never get rid of. I attributed it to cheaply built injectors. I vowed to never go down that road again.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  19. #19
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    Turbo Diesel and electric service. Located in Duluth.
    Jim is the owner and master tech.
    They have good CURRENT test bench and full Stanadyne service center, factory authorized and trained.
    They know the particulars of the DB2 and DS4.
    They can build the injectors to match the pump.
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  20. #20
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    I would have little confidence, if any, in any shop that would "rebuild" a pump with a known "failed" issue, then turn it out untested and uncalibrated. I don't care if they "could" do it, are "qualified", "certified", or "authorized". The mere fact they did that is unforgivable. This wasn't a friend doing you a favor. If he has a calibration bench and the experience, he knows better, but didn't do what he knew was necessary. Your money is better spent elsewhere, IMO.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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