6.2 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[AugustDiesel]

This is as far as I got yesterday:

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Have the Right Stuff on the bench ready to go, will pull the valve covers off this afternoon as soon as I get off work. If I’m reading the instructions correctly, the Right Stuff only takes 5 minutes to cure, is that correct? Not that I will be cranking the truck up tonight anyways, as there is other work to do. But if that cure time is correct then that seems to remove the overnight step and I can go ahead and put the engine top back together.

Either way, thanks for the step by step tutorial Robyn. I have followed it to the letter so far and have not had any issues.

[Robyn]

Good to hear...

[DmaxMaverick]

This is as far as I got yesterday: Have the Right Stuff on the bench ready to go, will pull the valve covers off this afternoon as soon as I get off work. If I’m reading the instructions correctly, the Right Stuff only takes 5 minutes to cure, is that correct? Not that I will be cranking the truck up tonight anyways, as there is other work to do. But if that cure time is correct then that seems to remove the overnight step and I can go ahead and put the engine top back together.

Either way, thanks for the step by step tutorial Robyn. I have followed it to the letter so far and have not had any issues.

Not sure where you read/heard that. It cures like any other RTV (which is what it is, only a better version). A couple hours to set, and a day, more or less, to cure. Don't skip the overnight step. If you tighten it down too early, it will squish out. In some applications like with flat surface gaskets and low pressure, it can be placed into service sooner. But not in applications like the VC. Crankcase impulses will blow it out.

[AugustDiesel]

Not sure where you read/heard that. It cures like any other RTV (which is what it is, only a better version). A couple hours to set, and a day, more or less, to cure. Don't skip the overnight step. If you tighten it down too early, it will squish out. In some applications like with flat surface gaskets and low pressure, it can be placed into service sooner. But not in applications like the VC. Crankcase impulses will blow it out.

Thanks for the heads up. To answer your question: it’s on the back of the can. HOWEVER, I am following the procedures as you and Robyn have outlined, REGARDLESS of what the can says. Fortunately I did not rush into this and due to time constraints have not been able to get the valve covers back on this week, but should be able to get it done this upcoming week. I plan to do as directed: apply the Right Stuff, and reinstall VC, barely snugged, next day remove VC bolts to add blue loctite and reinstall and torque.

[More Power]

...I plan to do as directed: apply the Right Stuff, and reinstall VC, barely snugged, next day remove VC bolts to add blue loctite and reinstall and torque.

A 5mm bead is sufficient. A little sealant will find its way onto the threads of the bolts - a little is actually preferred. That's enough to keep them from loosening - thread locker isn't normally needed. Just don't let more than a little sealant find its way into the bolt holes. It'll prevent the bolts from reaching full depth.

As a way of relating... The valve covers installed on our 6.5 Power Project engine were installed as outlined here. The valve cover bolts didn't loosen and there was no oil leakage for 300,000 miles. Jim