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Diesel Conversions Convert gas to diesel, or convert to a 6.2/6.5/Duramax/Cummins/Navistar/Isuzu/Perkins/Detroit/or ... diesel engine. Go here to see completed projects, works in progress, share your conversion or ask the experts.

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  #1  
Old 06-22-2008, 04:10 PM
Gearstix Gearstix is offline
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Default Smaller diesel engine, that would replace a gas inline four?

Hello,
I've recently been interested in diesel engine conversions.
My dad bought a 2004.5 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Crew with the 6.6L LLY Duramax with a Alison transmission... man it hauls. We had a trial of the Bully Dog tuner.. holy crap..

However...
My truck has a 134 cubic inch over head valve four cylinder. It produces around 115hp at the flywheel. Its mated to a Borg Warner T-5 5 speed manual transmission, and its got a 3.73 rear end.
Its a 1994 GMC Sonoma regular cab short box fleetside.
I've been trying to find a suitable diesel engine to swap into my pickup. I've been looking at the Cummins 4BT briefly, but from what I can gather it is too big for my application.

I'd be looking for an engine that I can do slight work to to make it put out more power, but not a significant drop in fuel economy. Something thats got parts readily availible. A simpler engine, I guess, would be nice too, less electrical and stuff. Factory turbo would be nice. I've got a few years to work on my pickup so I'm not overly worried about time. Space might be an issue with my truck, but as it sits now, theres a big shroud on the radiator, and I eventually plan to swap in electric fans, which will clear up a good bit of space. It was sitting in an airport parking lot for a year or two before my dad talked to the owner of the building and got it for me. Got it for free. It runs good, but I'm just considering my options.

This is the best photo I have of the engine bay.


And here it is when we towed it home.


It needs body work, and I'm learning that too. Also planning on putting full airbag suspension under it, which would help with the weight of a diesel engine.
I'm 15 years old, but please don't think of me as some young punk. I've grown up by cars and trucks all my life, and I'm taking automotive courses, and fabrication courses aswell, and I can stick weld, mig weld, oxyweld/cut and use a plasma.
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2008, 04:13 PM
Gearstix Gearstix is offline
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I don't need air conditioning, and would like to keep a manual transmission, if that would help.
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2008, 06:25 PM
steponmebbbboom's Avatar
steponmebbbboom steponmebbbboom is offline
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Location: hamilton the STEEL CITY, ontario
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try a VW diesel engine out of a jetta.

small, great on gas, quiet, and light enough that you wouldnt need to touch the suspension. i think youll have your hands full as it is mating the engine to the transmission.

if you can handle that swap successfully, then you can think about more radical engine choices.
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  #4  
Old 06-22-2008, 06:27 PM
AKMark AKMark is offline
Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: North Pole, Alaska
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Swap an old 6.2L Chevy in there. Put it with a 700R4 auto or a SM465 manual trans. The T-5 won't hold up to any diesel no matter what. The auto will give better mpg, but the SM465 is strong. If you run the SM465 you should regear the rear end to 3.07 to give you better economy. However, with most diesels you may have a problem with the stock size rear end. Unless you stick to a lower power (6.2L would work fine for this) engine, you are gonna blow that sucker sky high. It was never intended for a hi torque motor.

Turn up the injection pump a little on a 6.2L and you should more than it's current motor ever thought was possible, be one of your cheapest options, keep the Bowtie motor under the hood, and get in the mid 20's or better for MPG.

I know they make kits to put a 350 under the hood of an S-10/S-15 and the 6.2L fits in the same place a 350 does. I know because I put one in a Suburban that had a 350.

Biggest differences;

You are gonna need a hydroboost brake system, a larger radiator, a different transmission, probably a different rear end, a stronger engine crossmember and that's just the extra stuff on top of a complete motor. On a nice note, to make a 6.2L run, you need only one switched power wire to the injection pump, and starter wiring to make it run. 700R4 is also an easy automatic to use because when you set it up correctly, you only need one wire to that as well to lock it up.

Lots of good info here, have fun with the conversion, no matter what motor you decide on.
__________________
05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project
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  #5  
Old 06-22-2008, 07:10 PM
Gearstix Gearstix is offline
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How much is a 6.2 worth? Are they reliable?
I could probably make a new crossmember, and rear end swap I could do that too I guess. Narrowed Ford 9" or something?
The 6.2 is non turbo?
I can get mounts for a 350 and I think 700R4 that will fit right in my truck.
I'm not really sure if I want a manual trans or auto.. with a manual I'd need to hook up a clutch pedal and stuff, or would I be able to use what I got?
Is it a computerized engine?

Last edited by Gearstix; 06-22-2008 at 07:44 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-22-2008, 08:50 PM
AKMark AKMark is offline
Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 400
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6.2's were used from 1982 till 1993 or 94 in GM trucks and vans. They can be found used for pretty cheap. They are easy to work on. No computers required, note the 1 wire I mentioned in my post.

These engines were also used in Humvee's (H1's to the general public) for a long time. Parts are still plentiful.

I'd search craigslist or here for a good old complete truck and use as much of it as possible to build yours. It's cheaper that way than buying all the parts, unless you get some steals.

Just make sure it works good before the swap. I pulled a 6.2 out of a Burb that had been recovered from a theft almost 9 months earlier and left to rot. It ran great when I put it in my much nicer Burb body and it's 700R4 worked well too. It ran five months (many times idling for hours a day during -40's and -50's in Alaska) before I spun a bearing. Looking back, it could've been easily fixed with a new crank and bearings, but I pulled it and started to rebuild it when I came across a much nicer Body and went to that one, which ended up being a money pit.

Look around here, this site was started originally with the 6.2's in mind. LOTS OF INFO!!!

Have fun with the swap, you'll have a very unique truck by the time you get your license.
__________________
05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project
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  #7  
Old 06-22-2008, 09:06 PM
Gearstix Gearstix is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKMark View Post
6.2's were used from 1982 till 1993 or 94 in GM trucks and vans. They can be found used for pretty cheap. They are easy to work on. No computers required, note the 1 wire I mentioned in my post.

These engines were also used in Humvee's (H1's to the general public) for a long time. Parts are still plentiful.

I'd search craigslist or here for a good old complete truck and use as much of it as possible to build yours. It's cheaper that way than buying all the parts, unless you get some steals.

Just make sure it works good before the swap. I pulled a 6.2 out of a Burb that had been recovered from a theft almost 9 months earlier and left to rot. It ran great when I put it in my much nicer Burb body and it's 700R4 worked well too. It ran five months (many times idling for hours a day during -40's and -50's in Alaska) before I spun a bearing. Looking back, it could've been easily fixed with a new crank and bearings, but I pulled it and started to rebuild it when I came across a much nicer Body and went to that one, which ended up being a money pit.

Look around here, this site was started originally with the 6.2's in mind. LOTS OF INFO!!!

Have fun with the swap, you'll have a very unique truck by the time you get your license.
I'm worried about mechanical failures and stuff, and expensive repairs.
I think I'll try to find a truck with a 6.2L... but might be hard... and might have a billion miles on it.
I'm gunna wait though and see if we move, if we move I'll have space to pull an engine. How difficult would it be to rebuild a 6.2?
Was there ever a factory turbo variant? Would it be worth it to turbocharge a 6.2? I don't think I would but, just curious.

Edit: I found this, but its 6 hours away and I don't have 1100 dollars right now, or I'd buy it.
http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...QAdIdZ55641893
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  #8  
Old 06-22-2008, 09:25 PM
AKMark AKMark is offline
Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
I'm worried about mechanical failures and stuff, and expensive repairs.
I think I'll try to find a truck with a 6.2L... but might be hard... and might have a billion miles on it.
I'm gunna wait though and see if we move, if we move I'll have space to pull an engine. How difficult would it be to rebuild a 6.2?
Was there ever a factory turbo variant? Would it be worth it to turbocharge a 6.2? I don't think I would but, just curious.
Mechanical failures in my opinion are cheaper than the electrical ones associated with the newer diesels. The old 6.2's worked well and most of them last a long time. The injectors for a 6.2L are around $50 a piece whereas a set for a Duramax are closer to $400+ each.

A 6.2 is no harder to rebuild than a 350 gasser, in fact I thought it was easier. Here's a decent breakdown on what a rebuild will cost you. At least this is what it cost me in Alaska (where things are normally more expenseive) only a year and a half ago.

Block prep (machine shop will do this and will bore it out if needed) $500 they also installed new cam bearings and checked my crankshaft for this price.

Rebuild kit $900 (had the machine shop order this, for .030 over as that's what the block needed to clean the cylinder walls. It included 8 pistons, all new bearings, seals, gaskets, and frost plugs. I think that's all that was included, I could be wrong.

I paid $15 each for the machine shop to verify my heads were crack free. The main problem was that I had to pull all the valves and springs. The nice part was the shop tanked them, tested them, and put in new stem seals while I reassembled them at their shop.

I had a great machine shop with a great reputation, make sure you find one that has experience with diesels.

Add to the prices $320 for new injectors, $250 for an injection pump rebuild, a $80 set of new glow plugs, a $40 radiator power flush, and about $120 for new fluids, including an extra oil & filter change done after the first 200 miles.

These are some of my favorite trans guys. Bowtieoverdrives.com Done business with them and their products are top notch. Their level 1 kit would handle a 6.2L no problem. Just specify the 1200 rpm stall converter when ordering. For $1K, it's a good deal. You'll pay several hundred for a trans that shifts and who knows what shape it's really in till you've had it a few months. Their lockup kits are great, I've had them in five different 700R4's and by some miracle, none of them has given up, even the one that pulled my 10K trailer from Alaska to here.
__________________
05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project
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  #9  
Old 06-22-2008, 09:28 PM
AKMark AKMark is offline
Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post

Edit: I found this, but its 6 hours away and I don't have 1100 dollars right now, or I'd buy it.
http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...QAdIdZ55641893
If you are patient, keep an eye on craigslist, and you might find a steal!
__________________
05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project
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  #10  
Old 06-22-2008, 09:37 PM
Gearstix Gearstix is offline
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About what mileage should a 6.2 be rebuilt?
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