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Thread: Remove box from a 95 K3500,,,,

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    101

    Question Remove box from a 95 K3500,,,,

    Hello, What are the chances of removing the box on a 95 K3500 Wisconsin truck? I mean will the bolts come out without breaking stuff? I have to put a sending unit in the tank, fuel gauge is not working. I have dropped the tank out the bottom on other trucks but that's not much fun.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
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    Default

    Considering the shape of my ’93, I’d be expecting at least requiring some new hardware...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    101

    Question

    Is it possible to spray penetrating oil on the bolts or are they hidden?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
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    2,697

    Default

    If they’re hidden, it is going to be harder to get a wrench on them than to spray penetrating oil.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    101

    Default

    I meant if the threaded end is hidden,,,,,

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
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    Default

    I’d have to crawl under my truck to look, but I’m pretty sure the bolt goes in from the top down with the nut on the bottom.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
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    2,639

    Default

    They are carriage bolts, rounded on top. You can spray from underneath. And I would give the a couple shots over several days to have plenty of time for the skunk pee to work.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, In.
    Posts
    535

    Default

    I'm with "Nut", spray some stuff on them for a few day and maybe tackle it next weekend.
    (just don't let it run out of fuel!)
    Dave
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    101

    Default

    I thought the bolts went from the bottom up? I have to look I guess.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Older trucks = carriage bolts, top-down. Newer trucks, bottom-up. Not sure about 94 or when they actually changed. If you see the bolt heads in the bed, the nuts are underneath. If you don't see the bolt heads, they bolt from the bottom-up, into the cross-bars. You may be able to reach a couple of them with penetrating oil, but some are hidden or very difficult to reach. The bottom-up bolts are less prone to seizing, like the older design. It may be a non-issue.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Default

    My 95 goes from the bottom up,,,

  12. #12
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    Feb 2010
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    Waiting for my back problems to ease up before tackling this project.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Walla Walla WA
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    69

    Default

    94 is top down. Spray the nuts from under a few days in a row. More small items that you will find out once removing. Fuel pipe has connections that can be tedious. Ground lines for the lights, trailer package. Removing rear light assemblies helps. I removed my bumper and hitch assembly. Far easier to remove the bed. I have a CC Duelie so 4 other guys helped. 4 because there is always something still attached to the bed (Did I forget the diff axle vent or not?). Good chance to replace fuel lines (rubber), fuel pump, etc. Have the means to upgrade the exhaust system - best time now if a DIY project.

    Luck
    1994 K2500 ext cab. Recently repowered with; Non-cracked 599 block, factory compression, used old DSG girdle for main caps. Factory for what remains. Changed diffs to 3.42. Fuel economy Hwy 22.5 mpg US, in town without lcokup in 2nd/3rd - 18 mpg US.
    1994 K3500 CC LB Silverado. Next project. Built for endurance, power and gearing. Plan on opened up intake and exhaust sytem, best cooling mods, 4.11 gearing 4L80E, followed by Gear Vendors OD. Need to be able to split all gears and have lockup in 2nd/3rd/4th. Tan interior cloth, Bad ass dark blue (coming) aluminum wheels and air ride (coming)

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