Newbie
I have a towing special suburban I am going to swap a diesel into. My question is can I use the stock radiator? I know the diesel needs a better one then gas but the towing special has a better radiator for bigger loads. Would this work for the diesel or would it still not be enough.
Enthusiast
if it was mine i'd try it,,,but know where to get a upgrade if it didn't cut itOriginally Posted by stuntdoublejoe
Newbie
What problems would I come across using the turbo 400. I don't go on the highway much so not having an overdrive isn't much of a problem, and I've heard it runs on a vacuum and if thats true how much would a vacuum pump cost? Also how would I go about changing the governor for the diesel
Administrator
The van diesel engine and various other components would work for a pickup or Suburban installation. There may be a couple minor items that'll need to be changed, but overall, most accessory items would work fine. For example the oil dipstick, oil fill pipe, throttle & cruise cables are different between the two applications.
The gas big-block equipped Suburbans and trucks received the same larger radiator as the diesel - at least they were the same physical size, so I'd try it. If the Suburban was equipped with a 350 gas, it'll need another radiator.
A non-OD automatic worked just fine back in the days of the 55-mph speed limits - the first 9 years of my GM diesel experience was during the days of 55.... Nowadays, you just can't comfortably run at freeway speeds without an OD. Plus, when I upgraded to an OD automatic, I saw an immediate 6-mpg increase.
GM produced vacuum pumps and a VRV (Vacuum Regulator Valve), that was bolted to the side of the fuel injection pump, to simulate manifold vacuum on a gas engine. The VRV allowed a TH400 (or TH350) to function and shift normally behind a 6.2 diesel.
Jim
Newbie
How much would a vacuum pump and VRV cost me? I can get a 700r4 or a 4L80 for about $500. Would this be a better option because I am on a very tight budget and already have the engine and brake booster.
Administrator
The 700R4 can be built to shift without electric/electronic control - that's what I did for my 6.2L diesel. Still, the 700 would require a throttle-valve (TV) cable and bracket. A 4L80-E would require a TCM, harness, engine speed sensor and TPS (figure about $1k beyond the cost of the trans).
If on a tight budget, and if you wanted to use a TH400, you could post an ad in the classified ad section for a VRV/vac pump. Buying used would be less expensive than new.
Jim
Enthusiast
Jim:
What method did you use for locking up the 700? When I was building the Buick, the only thing that was available would only give me lock up in fourth. As I tow with the car, it is important that I have lock up in third. Currently use a switch on the dash that does work but would love to find a way to do it without having to remember to work the switch.
Bill
91 Buick Roadmaster/Avant 6.2 NA conversion (gone but not forgotten)
94 Cadillac Fleetwood (sold)
08 Aerolight 23TT
06 Vortec Max Silverado CC SB (sold)
10 Avalanche (electronic quagmire but love the truck)
Newbie
I now have the VRV/Vac Pump, so now my question is how do I change up the governor and shift points?
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