Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 88

Thread: NV4500 Tranny Trouble

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    That's the funny thing - it seemed to work fine right up until it stopped working completely. At first, I thought I had blown the hydraulic line - which is what happened last summer. But then there wasn't the puddle of fluid like had happened that time...

    Of course, since I bought this used and didn't know anything else, once I have this all fixed I'm going to probably think that it shifts smoother than melted butter!

    And I should say "retainer spring" - the manual just says "spring." The pivot ball stud fits through the clutch fork and then a plastic seat and a spring clip fit on the stud to hold the fork in place.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,057

    Default

    Don't over grease it. I put 1 pump from the grease gun every time I changed the oil filter. The owner's manual gives some ounce amount, but who measures?
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Mission B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,814

    Thumbs up Thanks

    Yes sping clip makes a lot more sense and It would be something I would put in without remembering it. I was 99% certain I didn't put in any kind of a spring in LOL, but felt like taking it apart (got lots of free time lol) to make sure ( :
    Al
    Original D.P. Member #750, 2009 Ext Cab LB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Black, Linex, 1993 6.5 TD 4x4 reg cab LB, 5 speed, 1972 Pontiac Lemans, 94 cady De Ville

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, BC
    Posts
    1,070

    Default Fork and Pivot Ball

    Ya, the fork was cracked on the truck and the stud was worn right down like that too. The retainer had popped off inside as well. GM part only it would seem. Got the clutch and am putting it back together today hopefully.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, BC
    Posts
    1,070

    Default Grease Fitting

    TRBANKII: Thanks for the picture. Armed with a scraper I attacked the bellhousing and discovered the fitting under a crusty layer of oil and dirt.
    Clutch pack/housing is bolted up. Had to go to the dealer to get a missing housing stud, ($4!!!), but should have the rest of the tranny in within a few more hours. And then my beast will live again, finally. Just in time to drink up some of that $1.45/liter diesel.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, BC
    Posts
    1,070

    Default Truck

    Thanks to all, the Evil Diesel lives again. Everything went in properly and the truck was started with a quick prayer and a minute later I was rollin' down the road.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Good to hear!

    Other things in life keep cropping up, but I really have to get mine back together this week...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    I won't go into the soap opera drama that has been keeping me from finishing this blasted project up... Suffice it to say that I'm still working on it...

    Thought I was making headway over the weekend, but I cannot get the clutch to disengage far enough to be able to shift smoothly. I bled everything out and sticking a pick into the hole at the back of the bellhousing where the slave cylinder is located, I can see that the slave is moving the release fork about 5/8" to 3/4" - no idea if it should be more than that or not.

    Pulled the transmission back off but so far still have the bellhousing on there. It is obviously not pressing against the fingers hard enough to disengage properly.

    Just to confirm - this is how the release bearing goes on the fork (see photo)? I used the old fork and bearing as an example.

    And there isn't a different fork that needs to be used when converting to the SMF from the DMF? When they went to the SMF in the '97s they also went to the internal slave "ring" setup, so I'm guessing you use the same fork you would use with the DMF?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

    Default

    What shape is the socket in the fork where the ball rides? And what shapee is the pivot ball in? I had rouble there once, new forlk and pivot ball fixed it. Mine is still DMF.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    That picture is the old fork and bearing for reference since the new stuff is all installed at the moment. Brand new fork, bearing, pivot ball, and retainer.

    Check post #59 for my pictures of what shape the old stuff was in...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Whitby Ont Ca
    Posts
    88

    Default

    Is clutch pedal hard or easy to push
    If pedal is harder than normal the fork, ball or flywheel may not be right
    When hand pressure is applied to fork and throw out bearing is touching clutch fingers, if you were to draw a imaginary line from the throwout brg to fork contact point, the fork to ball stud contact point and the fork to slave cylinder contact point, the slave cylinder contact point should be forward of the ball contact point by approx 1/2" (slightly more than 1/2 of slave cylinder travel), if the line is parallel or to the rear it will cause the fork to bind and not have enough throw out brg movement, bin there had this happen
    I.ve seen this happen when the flywheel was machined to much
    If possible bolt old clutch and flywheel together and compare measurement from crank mounting surface to fingers and compare to new assembly
    Hope I explained this so you can tell what I am talking about
    I'll check tomorrow if you need any more clarification
    Ron
    Ps yes that is the proper installation of the throwout brg to the fork
    rhsub 99K2500 suburban 6.5 code F,4L80, 4:10, FSD cooler, DSG oil cooler and lines, Dtech FSD, injectors, Isspro egt, trans and boost guages, Bilistein shocks

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rhsub View Post
    Is clutch pedal hard or easy to push
    Easy. Currently, the transmission is back out but I have the bellhousing and clutch all installed. I can look down through the hole in the floor as I apply the clutch and it seems that the fork is not pushing the throwout bearing in far enough.

    Quote Originally Posted by rhsub View Post
    If pedal is harder than normal the fork, ball or flywheel may not be right When hand pressure is applied to fork and throw out bearing is touching clutch fingers, if you were to draw a imaginary line ... if the line is parallel or to the rear it will cause the fork to bind and not have enough throw out brg movement, bin there had this happen I.ve seen this happen when the flywheel was machined to much
    Brand new slave, fork, pivot ball, throwout bearing, clutch, and flywheel. I'm throwing a new master cylinder in today as it is the only part of the equation that is original at this point.

    Quote Originally Posted by rhsub View Post
    If possible bolt old clutch and flywheel together and compare measurement from crank mounting surface to fingers and compare to new assembly
    Did that measurement last night trying to figure out if the old DMF to new SMF setups were different and required a different fork or something. They match exactly.

    Quote Originally Posted by rhsub View Post
    Hope I explained this so you can tell what I am talking about
    I'll check tomorrow if you need any more clarification
    Ron
    Ps yes that is the proper installation of the throwout brg to the fork
    Headed out there now to do the master cylinder. Other than that, I'm at a loss.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Ok, replaced the master cylinder, bled it, and that seems to have solved the problem.

    Should have done that from the start considering that 6.5DD also had that problem - not to mention that things like that should be replaced as systems (master, hydraulic line, slave) rather than components... If one part is going bad, likely that the other parts are worn too.

    Now to get the rest of it back together and get the beast back on the road!
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Just wanted to thank everyone who posted here and offered help and suggestions. The beast is back together and under its own power once again.

    Couldn't have done it without all you folk!
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    tekamah ne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    ill start with i realize this is a 4 year old thread.

    any new updates? it seems some of you were having similar failures as me, and i was curious if your failures have continued, or resolved?

    i have a 90 crewcab 4x4 with a 6.2 that had a th400 and i put a nv4500 from a 93 in it. i have had the clutch fail 4 times now in the last few years, every time i tear out the springs and the center hub comes loose, and the clutch will no longer disengage.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    tekamah ne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    another pic of the destroyed clutch
    Attached Images Attached Images

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    tekamah ne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    and another
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    tekamah ne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    another one
    Attached Images Attached Images

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    tekamah ne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    then there is this pile of springs
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    tekamah ne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    and the damage it did to the flywheel
    Attached Images Attached Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •