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Thread: Pitman arm removal

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

    Default Pitman arm removal

    So what does it take besides removing the steering box to remove the pitman arm? Is there a tool that will fit between the bottom of the steering box and the cross member on a 4 X 4?
    I called the dealer and they told me they don't sell any tools and for some reason my neighborhood Napa was closed today.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Richmond UT
    Posts
    60

    Default

    I just changed mine about 2 weeks ago, and it wasn't fun My dealer said to use a pickle fork and an air hammer .........yeah right!

    First loosen the box and large nut on the pitman arm, (don't remove the steering shaft) and point the pitman arm shaft towards the engine. Then buy a pitman arm puller from a parts store (its easy to identify the one that works the best. Their relatively short and have 2 ears with a large center bolt) Now for the fun part..... using a grinder or die grinder cut into the pitman arm towards the center splined shaft, but of course don't cut too far. Then when you have cut as much as you dare put the puller on it and it should come off. If yours has been changed recently then skip the grinder part, but if it was like mine you will just brake the puller (I broke 2 ) if you don't cut into the pitman arm. Good Luck! also look for the thread I posted about 2 weeks ago I't might help you some more
    P.S. if you plan on keeping your truck then Anti-Sieze will be your best friend for re-assembly so it's not such a pain next time.
    95 K2500 Silverado regcab, 6.5L F-vin, 4l80E, HD alloys 3" turbo back, Air intake, custom machined FSD isolator & I just turned over 50,000 original miles SOLD!!!
    79 Toyota Hilux 20R, G52 5-speed swap, 4.7:1 t-case gear reduction, 4.37:1 R&P's, and 35" X-terrains. Too bad the poor thing is about to die from skin cancer
    86 F250 Lariat 4x4 6.9 diesel, 4 speed, 3.55 gears, and lovin it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Martinsville, IN
    Posts
    3,163

    Default

    You need a better puller...

    I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Richmond UT
    Posts
    60

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ronniejoe
    You need a better puller...

    I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.
    The first puller i broke was made in Taiwan so that probably had something to do with it, but the second one was good USA steel. I also had a large C-clamp wrapped around it to keep it from bending outwards. The threads started to strip right before the ear snapped off. I couldn't believe how much pressure was on it.
    I agree that I shouldn't have suggested grinding on it.. that was a big mistake. I personally found that to be twenty times easier than putting a puller under that much stress not to mention the other tools involved. I will stand by this when I say that some are worse than others in my case it was OEM equiptment from 95 and I live in the rust belt. I figured the grinder idea was a lot better than some of the Ideas a couple "profesional alignment shops" suggested to me: Like torching it off, or the pickle fork air hammer idea or my favorite: "just use a punch and sledge hammer"
    Bottom line: Use your best judgement and don't compromise safety.
    95 K2500 Silverado regcab, 6.5L F-vin, 4l80E, HD alloys 3" turbo back, Air intake, custom machined FSD isolator & I just turned over 50,000 original miles SOLD!!!
    79 Toyota Hilux 20R, G52 5-speed swap, 4.7:1 t-case gear reduction, 4.37:1 R&P's, and 35" X-terrains. Too bad the poor thing is about to die from skin cancer
    86 F250 Lariat 4x4 6.9 diesel, 4 speed, 3.55 gears, and lovin it

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

    Smile

    I had allready tried a pickle fork just to have the houseing give before the pitman arm. Thought about heat, but then there is a seal all too close. I just hoped there was an easyer method...........short of removing the box! Now where did I leave the Dynamite and blasting caps............? I know they are arround here somewhere.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Denville,New Jersey
    Posts
    424

    Default Grind it off....

    Thats how i did mine.Take your time, when you get near the end mine made a pop and the last 1/8th of an inch just cracked.If you cut the pitman twice you don't even have to loosen the steering box.No torches, no sledgehammers, just patience! Good luck and keep us posted!
    94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.

  7. #7

    Smile Pitman Arm 2000 CK 3500 4 WD

    I just did a Pittman Arm on a one ton 4WD. I had to remove the steering gear as the major lower frame is right in the way. I used a cut off wheel to make reference marks on the old arm and casting so I could reference the new arm.

    The steering shaft telescopes and I needed assistance in re-assembly.

    It took about 2 hours to do the whole job. I have the luxury of a lift and a full compliment of air tools. I would guess it would take at least 4 hours without those tools.

    The hydraulic lines have 18mm flare nuts and you may want to loosen them with a crow foot wrench as getting a good purchase with a flare wrench is difficult, I used the flare wrench after I broke the seal as it is faster than the crow foot.

    A pickle fork air hammer was used to break the Pittman ball joint and a Pittman puller was used to pull the arm off the gear case after it was removed from the truck. I used anti-seize on the shaft just in case.

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