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Thread: ignition switch replacement

  1. #1

    Default ignition switch replacement

    Through the advice from the 6.5 forum I've zeroed in on the problem as being with the ignition switch itself or the wiring to it.
    How do I go about removing the existing switch? Do I remove the switch with a puller or do i need to remove the steering wheel, and any tricks of the trade would help in this process?
    Lars Tanner
    1994 K2500 6.5 Manual Trans 178,000 miles no modifications - Even though old its been the best truck I have ever owned!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    21

    Default

    You will need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate remover you can rent them both for free at autozone

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

    Default

    On my 94 the key cylinder works a rod that operates the ignition switch mounted on the upper right side of the colum just above the pedals. A couple screws and unplug the wiring harnes.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Just for future reference, I did this last night.

    Steering wheel puller and lock plate compressor certainly help. Getting the clip off the lock plate without the compressor is simple enough, but getting it back on is another matter.

    For mine, the cap over the center of the steering wheel just clipped in place. Remove it and remove the wire for the horn. Remove the nut and pull the steering wheel. There is a plastic disk on the back that insulates the horn button - it may stay attached to the steering wheel or come out separately. Compress the lock plate and remove the clip to remove it. Four screws - one removes a clip that holds the turn signal lever in place, the other three hold the switch mechanism in place. The wiring keeps the switch mechanism from coming out. Although you could unplug it and remove it, removing only the screws allows you to shift it enough to get to the retaining screw for the lock cylinder. Loosen the retaining screw and slide it out until the cylinder slides right out.

    Slide the new cylinder in and play with the retaining screw until the cylinder slides in fully. Pushing the retaining screw back in should lock it in place - tighten the screw. Slide the switch mechanism back into place and reinstall the three screws in the turn signal switch mechanism. Then install the fourth screw and clip to hold the turn signal lever in place. Slide the lock plate back on along with the retaining clip. Install the plate compressor and compress the plate until the retaining clip can be pushed into place. Slide the horn insulator and steering wheel back onto the shaft and align the parts. Reinstall the nut and tighten it down - pulling the steering wheel into place on the shaft. Reconnect the wire for the horn to the cap and snap the cap into place.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

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