Sweeeeeet
Getting the cylinders nice and round is dependent on using a plate.
The final torque on the deck can and does change the shape of the bores.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Finally getting back to my project here...too many house projects keeping me away from mechanical stuff.
Got the block completely stripped last night so I could get the rods and crank over to the machine shop today. My how 15 years of knowledge makes you notice things that you haven't seen before.
I purchased the engine back in 2003 or 2004 and pulled the pan and installed a set of DSG girdles. When I pulled it apart I realized that I had smaller outer bolts on the mains. That didn't make sense since this was supposed to be a 1997 block, which should have the bigger bolts. I must have just thought I scored a later block when I installed the girdles. Remember this was supposed to be a "low mileage stock engine" that was sourced from a diesel engine supplier.
After I removed the girdles, I noticed that the outer bolt holes in the caps were large. Hmm... I pulled the main caps and what do you know, inserts in each of the outer holes. Well, why would they have gone through all that trouble with the rebuild? Yep, because the block was cracked. Web between 1 & 3. Extended about 2" up the front of the web and a little shorter on the back of the web.
Hindsight being 20/20, buying a rebuildable core would have put me far ahead in terms of cost and reliability. A "great deal" on a "low mileage" engine sounded good at the time.
I already had plans to scrap the block, so really nothing more lost by finding the crack. Just makes me want to punch the idiot that sold it to me.
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...
Hi,
Years ago I dropped a valve on my 6.2 non turbo Jimmy Blazer.
Shut it down almost at once, and got away with nothing more than a nice circular imprint in the carbon on the piston. No further damage evident, and it ran well for years afterward.
FWIW.
Rich Phillips
Member #27
2019 K-2500 Crew Cab Z71
Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL Fifth Wheel
In The Past: '82 6.2 Jimmy Blazer, '93 6.5 GMC K-2500, '01 DMAX K-2500, '09 DMAX K-2500
Jeep
There are a lot of cracked blocks out there.
With the inserts in the holes the block should be good to go.
Are these the LOCK N STITCH ????
THEY WILL hold things together.
As long as the crack is not past the end of the web area you should be OK.
When the crack gets into the area beyond the bolt holes its getting real sketchy..
Beyond the bolt holes and they can start into the cylinder wall, and this is a no no...
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
The shadowed imprint of "both" valves on the piston crown tell me that piston protrusion exceeds the allowable high limit. I doubt it's a valve timing issue. With a valve timing problem, I'd be inclined to think that one valve or the other could have an interference problem, but not likely both.
Incidentally, I wrote an article covering 6.5 piston protrusion a while back...
https://www.thedieselpage.com/member...rotrusionc.htm
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Well if anyone wants an early squirter block, .040 over, 007 taken off the decks and has a cracked main web, please come get it. Otherwise it is heading for the scrap heap.
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...
Block with inserts visible -
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...