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Thread: diesel tachometer

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    786

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    No Joe:

    Can't lay claim to developing this. It was Dr. Lee Swanger (Clevitekid) who did all the work and the one who did the article. I just built one (badly) based on his instructions.

    If you're intent on doing a 6.2, do some more digging. He had The Diesel Depot do up a custom 6.2 that put down over 200HP naturally aspirated. Really impressive build and I believe, after over 10 years, the truck is still on the road.

    Tried to find the article but no joy. Unless he pulled it, the write up must still be here somewhere.

    Bill
    91 Buick Roadmaster/Avant 6.2 NA conversion (gone but not forgotten)
    94 Cadillac Fleetwood (sold)
    08 Aerolight 23TT
    06 Vortec Max Silverado CC SB (sold)
    10 Avalanche (electronic quagmire but love the truck)

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northern Ct
    Posts
    224

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    As for building a 6.2 past the stock point, I'm a little paranoid.I've had my truck for over 20 years now, and there was a span in the middle of about 5 years, where I had to change out blown head gaskets maybe 4 or 5 times. They blew because of "abnormal" stress, where I was pulling a 5000lb sailboat a couple hundred miles,every spring and fall on the hilly free-way, and the truck didn't like the hi-way wind resistance at all. Had to really work on those long steep up-hill grades. Would've like to have had an EGT gauge, cause I'll bet it was "hot". Also overheated the motor once, which popped a gasket.
    Anyway, I hear about people turbo-charging the 6.2s and it makes me cringe. My 6.2 makes 415lbs compression on all cylinders, (or at least it did 15 yrs ago), and as you know are rated 22 to 1, so I can't see how a stock gasket will be able to hold more compression than that. Maybe if the block was o-ringed. As for making more power, "normally aspirated", I've heard people cranking up on the IP, but not sure if I want to give up my "OK" fuel mileage as it is.
    This doesn't have anything to do with this thread,(more power), so I don't want to delve into it here, and I'm sure there're other areas to talk about boosting power. But I don't mind a few comments, if you guys/(girls) don't.
    I also don't want this thread to be one of those "dead-enders", where nothing gets accomplished. I'm going to make this tach happen , one way or another, so please be patient. Joe
    Old habits, die hard.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

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    Joe,

    If your going to tow invest in a pyrometer. It is very surprising how fast EGT's will climb even empty.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northern Ct
    Posts
    224

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    Now that you mention it, if I get a gas tach with a clock in the big RHS pod, next to the speedo, then I can mount the pyrometer in the smaller lower LHS pod, (which is presently M/T), used for the clock option. I saw a dash layout on a brand X site, and someone had a photo of his dash, with the tach. In his smaller lower LHS pod, he had mounted an air pressure gauge from a topkick, to use for his air bags on the back suspension. Looked very functional and factory.
    Old habits, die hard.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    So. Cal. USA
    Posts
    98

    Default ESS connector

    I have been wanting to add a tach to my '84 suburban. It has the california vacuum pump/oil pump drive with the ess socket on it. Does anyone know where I can get a mating connector for that socket other than at the junk yard? Thanks for any help.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    786

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Liftgate View Post
    I have been wanting to add a tach to my '84 suburban. It has the california vacuum pump/oil pump drive with the ess socket on it. Does anyone know where I can get a mating connector for that socket other than at the junk yard? Thanks for any help.
    Should be a standard two prong male weatherpack connector. Typically your local NAPA or equivalent should have them in stock.

    Bill
    91 Buick Roadmaster/Avant 6.2 NA conversion (gone but not forgotten)
    94 Cadillac Fleetwood (sold)
    08 Aerolight 23TT
    06 Vortec Max Silverado CC SB (sold)
    10 Avalanche (electronic quagmire but love the truck)

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northern Ct
    Posts
    224

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Liftgate View Post
    I have been wanting to add a tach to my '84 suburban. It has the california vacuum pump/oil pump drive with the ess socket on it. Does anyone know where I can get a mating connector for that socket other than at the junk yard? Thanks for any help.
    Do you plan on keeping your ESS functional? If you were to incorporate a tach off of it, how will you run 2 connections off your pump?
    Old habits, die hard.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northern Ct
    Posts
    224

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    Went to our local automotive swap meet today, (Stafford Springs Ct), and only saw 3 instrument panels in the place. And there was a pretty good turnout. Lots of "stuff". But out of the 3 clusters, 2 were standard gauge pkgs, and 1 had a tach, with the fuel gauge in the lower left pod. The guy was asking $200. WAY too much for my taste. If it was a diesel set-up, I might've thought about it. I also see the set-ups on E-bay, and the prices are crazy, even for the gas stuff. Guess I'll have to keep hunting.
    Old habits, die hard.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    7

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    There is possibly suitable tachometer pin already in alternator (at least in '90-model) called "P" ("W"), which is connected to the end of field, according to GMC service manual. I said possible, because I haven't tried it yet and don't know if it really works. But anyway FYI . It is in four pin connector where warning light goes.



    Connector is that black lump next to Delco, in picture and if I remember correct, P-pin is most upper pin (I don't have service manual or car available right now)

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