aust manifold bolts?
Trying to wrap up my Optimizer build. I have 3 sets of exhaust manifold bolts and none are worthy of re-using. I want to replace with new but not sure where the best place to buy them. All help us greatly appreciated. 😎
aust manifold bolts?
Trying to wrap up my Optimizer build. I have 3 sets of exhaust manifold bolts and none are worthy of re-using. I want to replace with new but not sure where the best place to buy them. All help us greatly appreciated. 😎
Likely that Dorman makes replacements.
I have acquired new ones from Ma General in the past.
These bolts are a TRI lobe self locking thread that is also a rolled thread.
Some have the stud head and there are a few different lengths too.
SS diesel supply has them on their web site.
Good luck
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
I didn't find them on SS site... got a link??
1993 Chevy K3500
owner - Twisted Steel Performance
porting, ceramic & powder coating
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Thanks Robyn!
So I found a link with specs. I double checked measurements against my roached set and they seem to be dead on.
Anyone with an opinion of grade 5, 8, oem, or Stainless?
Driver's side
(6)- 10mm x 1.5mm x 64mm
(2)- 10mm x 1.5mm x 45mm
Passenger side
(3)- 10mm x 1.5mm x 64mm
(5)- Bolts with stud standoffs 10mm x 1.5mm x 84mm
The standoffs are 10mm x 1.5mm x 14mm
I plan to call the Dealer but already know they love these bolts
Grades 5 and 8 are SAE specs and apply to SAE hardware. Metric hardware has a different set of specs. Grade 8.8 corresponds roughly to Grade 5 and grade 10.9 roughly to Grade 8. Choose the grade that matches the OEM parts. Otherwise, your torques and expansion characteristics won't be right.
I'd avoid stainless. The bolts will last a long time, at the expense of the material they're screwed into.
The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!
If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?
Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510
Just an FYI
Do not use regular bolts of any grade.
The OEM bolts (Or replacements) are a rolled thread that locks the bolts in so they don't shake loose (And they will)
The site I referenced has the proper bolts for the job at hand.
Standard metric bolts can be used, buttttttttttttttt, you will die a thousand deaths dealing with the issues they will give you.
SS diesel supply link
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...V7ggGTmQsmgcUv
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Robyn, those dont have the standoffs though
I noticed that fact.
Sadly, unless you can find the GM originals you are not going to get all the goody yums.
The stud tops are not absolutely needed, but are nice on the RH side where you need to fasten the glow plug heat shields.
I will do some more looking and see if I can locate some.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
The use of these are specific to model years and applications. It is very likely they are still available, but identifying them may be a challenge. You won't likely find them in a "set", so looking for a set may be the wrong approach. You will need an original service manual drawing for the model year and application you are trying to adapt, including the accessories you are retaining, or omitting. Search for the individual part numbers of the bolts. It may be best to buy a "standard" set, and source the individual studded head bolts as needed.
Another option is to get the kit I referred to and then Source some metric threaded rod and make STUDS long enough to take care of the areas where you need to mount the GLOW PLUG SHIELDS.
Simply allow enough length using an old bolt as a pattern and then Double nut the thing and Snug it in the hole really good.
Remove the jam nuts and then use a swage type lock nut against manifold and add a second nut to secure the heat shield.
You will need to enlarge the bolt hole in the shield a tad, but no worries.
This may be an easy cheap fix.
The original bolts were very nice, but GM has stopped servicing most 6.5 stuff now.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Here are the GM part ###
Try them on ebay
Numbers are between the ***** (I marked the first one)
Left side
620 ****14028923 ****CK1, 2, 3(L65) BOLT,EXH MANIF(M10X1.5X45)(3.604)
654 14028922 CK1, 2, 3(L65) BOLT,EXH MANIF(6-LH, 3-RH)(W/PREAPPLIED CTG)(M10X1.5X65)
Right side
629 10137539 CK1, 2, 3(L65) STUD,EXH MANIF(M10X1.5X85)
632 14028923 CK1, 2, 3(L65) BOLT,EXH MANIF(M10X1.5X45)(3.604)
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Try these guys
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...MoIzpWmVWCIAgB
Not cheap bolts, but worth the $$ to get a good job.
Always use never seaze on them going into the heads and the stud top.
The listing calls for 5 of the stud top bolts and 3 of the other ones.
There is a BLUE hyper link in the lower part of the page for the other bolt part ###
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY