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Thread: 6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

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  1. #1

    Default 6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

    Hello,
    I've got a 6.5 reman long block being delivered tomorrow. I will be replacing a 6.2 in 1985 one ton truck with it. The truck has the 4 speed manual transmission with an Atlas overdrive. My plan is to use a Banks turbo kit on it. Now I am hoping to get some input on the best way to complete this thing. the more I research, the more confused I get. There are a thousand things out there that would seem to be just what I "need"...

    1. I am planning on converting it to a serpentine belt system. What year am I looking for ideally? '97 with a duramax fan sounds very popular, but how much fabrication is involved? There are some pretty pricey aftermarket water pumps on the market, are they necessary? Single thermostat or double? I don't tow a lot, but if I had to...I'm building this with the idea of a cab over camper while towing a boat.

    2. What Injection pump and injectors will suit this? It sounds like the DB-4911(?) is the pump, How do you all feel about the +45 h.p. injectors?

    3. F code intake? It seems to be talked about a lot, but I am hard pressed to find anybody actually claiming any noticable benefits. My lower intake has the EGR stuff and the two part chamber.

    4. Oil pump?

    5. Lift pump?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm not real interested in excessive scavenger hunts for parts and pieces, too much other stuff on my plate at the moment. Nor do I have the time, knowledge or skill set for a whole lot of fabrication. Thanks in advance.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    Hi

    Banks turbo is fine and will serve you well.

    The serp drive can be gleaned from any of the 6.5 engines.

    This said, does your truck have AC ??

    If you have AC you may want to use a serp drive system from a year that closely locates the AC pump to the side it was on.

    Early 6.5 had the AC on the RH side and the alternator on the LH side

    96 and later saw these switched and different pumps used.

    Water pump... The HO pump is the best deal... Go with a dual stat setup.
    I prefer the 180 F stats, especially in warm weather.

    The HO pumps were made with both BOLT ON and SCREW ON fan clutches

    Pick your choice.

    The 4911 IP is the real deal.
    F intake is good.

    Depending on the heads you use will dictate which injector lines will fit.

    DS4 (Electronic type IP ) lines will NOT work

    92-93 were the years of 6.5 that used the 4911

    The 45 hp injectors ??????

    These are HYPE ONLY (The IP is what delivers the fuel)

    Use stock injectors with proper pop pressure.

    Stay away from the Ebay sellers with the rebuilt or high pop stuff

    Get 8 injectors that are either NEW or reman by a local diesel injector shop that knows what they are doing.

    Most important is to have all 8 with pop pressures that are very very close.

    This makes for a very smooth running engine, plus it helps prevent torsional abuse in the crank due to varying timing cyl to cyl.

    Make sure you get a 4911 that is set up properly and not a cosmetic reman.

    OIL PUMP

    Depending on which block you are getting ????

    Is it a later series with the oil squirters in the main webs ???

    Use the stock pump

    Squirt blocks use a higher volume pump than non squirt blocks.

    It is very important to get the right pump.

    Put a standard pump on a squirt block and you will have zip oil pressure when the thing warms up.

    Put a HIGH VOLUME pump on a non squirt block and the oil pressure will be off in the ozones.

    Idle hot on a squirt block is about 10-20 psi and 40 running

    The non squirt blocks run higher oil pressure at idle and about 45-50 running.

    The lift pump needs to be a stock type 6.5 electric or EQUIVALENT

    No more than 5 psi delivery but needs to be able to pump 20 GPH volume.

    THE 6.2 likely had a mechanical lift pump on the engine.

    You can use the fuel pump mounting boss on the engine (If it has one) to bolt on a cover to connect your turbo oil drain.

    BE SURE THE FUEL PUMP BOSS IS DRILLED THROUGH TO THE CRANK CASE.

    An easy trick is to use a plate with a JIC fitting in it or a push lock fitting for the turbo oil drain.

    Some Franken parts needed to gitterdone

    You will likely need to make a few mods to things to get the dual stat crossover to live happily with the throttle cable/brackets.

    A little bit of wiring magic will be needed.

    You can locate the cold advance switch just as it was on the 6.2
    (RH cyl head)
    Some rigs of the mid 80's used a glow plug inhibit switch along with the cold advance switch on the RH head.

    If you have Glow inhibit it will likely be on the top rear of the RH head.
    Remove the switch and connect the wires together.

    This was used to keep the glow plugs from cycling when the engine was warm.

    The cold advance switch was on the RH head at the lower rear by the exh manifold in this style.

    Your 85 may not have the inhibit system.

    My 86 did.
    We were traveling and stayed overnight at a little po dunk motel in the middle of nowhere and the next morning was cold and snowy and NO GLOW

    Luckily I knew of the glow inhibit switch.
    Bypassed it with a paperclip and covered it with masking tape to get home.

    The glow controller can be used as is with the same brackets.

    Use 60G Delco glow plugs.


    The DMAX fan is a nice choice and will move some serious air.

    Good luck and have fun

    Please share some pix
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for that. That's a lot of good information.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  4. #4

    Default

    How do I know if I have a squirt block or not? It's supposed to be a optimizer block and heads. It's got 506 stamped on the walls of the valley and it has two V's that make a diamond shape in the valley, which, if I understand correctly are the markings of an optimizer.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    IT'S A Squirt block.

    Use the high volume pump listed for the later 6.5
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    The <> indicates that the block was cast by navistar.

    The only way to know if it was/is an optimizer is to look at the Julian date code on the block

    The date code will tell when the block was cast.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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