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Thread: 6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

  1. #81

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    Yeah Dave, looking at it maybe a 45 would even give some clearance. I figured the engine would ride with the frame and it wouldn't be an issue. The fact it got brought up leads me to believe I was mistaken. I'll probably cross my fingers and let it ride until the first oil change and change it up at that point. I haven't researched it yet, but I'm guessing I'll want to do an oil change within 500 miles, so it won't have to make it very long.
    T.John (I'm sensing that signing off is proper etiquette at this point)
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

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    Hi 3x3
    I brought it up because when i got my tow truck the rubber was gone out of the passenger side engine mount.When i would put it in gear with a load on the engine would lift up on one side.If i remember it was the pass side that would lift about an inch or so.
    I think that there is a chance of the fittings hitting the frame under the right/wrong situation.When the oil lines break/disconnect the oil loss is quick and usually causes an engine failure if it goes unnoticed for a few seconds.
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  3. #83

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    Hello everybody,
    I'm home from work again and trying to put this finishing touches on this thing. At this point I just need to prime the fuel system, install the rest of the exhaust, fill the radiator, fill and bleed the power steering system and finish up crossing over the OPS and alternator wiring harness. As for the wiring, I need to get the truck running so it will register oil pressure. Then I can make sure the lift pump is tied in to the OPS correctly. My new dilemma is I can't find a diagram for the belt install without the AC and the vacuum pump. every thing I am finding shows an idler pulley where the ac compressor would go. I don't have that nor can I find one for a 93 6.5. My system is configured with the AC compressor on the passenger side and the alternator on the drivers side. If I can sort out this belt issue I am hoping to go for a start tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    To prime the oil and get fuel up to the injectors is easy.

    Remove all the glow plugs and spin the engine.

    Without having to buck compression the engine spins like the wind, and oil pressure will come up quickly and as soon as fuel mist is blowing out the glow plug holes your ready to go.

    Easy on the starter, batteries AND YOUR PATIENCE
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #85

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    Thanks, I recall your previous post about pulling the glow plugs. The lift pump and wiring harness from Leroy diesel has a manual switch for running the lift pump and purging the system. Assuming I have the wiring correct that should be pretty straight forward. My big road block is the belt. How does it route over the pulleys with no AC pulley or idler pulley, is it even possible? It has to be possible, I can't find an idler pulley for a 93 6.5 and they didn't all have AC...so something had to be done...I'll keep digging. Thanks again!
    Last edited by 3and3oneton; 09-18-2017 at 12:19.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  6. #86

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    a
    Allright, I found an idler pulley. Went to the parts store and they found this Dorman part #34224. Dorman has it listed very vaguely as Chevy 1993-85. No engine application, when I enter 93 chevy 6.5 diesel in Dormans vehicle search they show no match for an idler pulley to replace the AC compressor. So...long story short, this works with a 102" belt, no vacuum pump.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Sweeeeeet.

    The lift pump will only purge the filter and get fuel up to the IP.

    The only way to get the injector pump and lines free of air is to spin the engine until air free fuel comes out the injectors.



    Good luck
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  8. #88

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    So I'm back on this beast! How long should it take to purge the IP and fuel lines? I've ran the batteries down twice trying to see diesel coming out the glow plug holes. I've only got the 4 glow plugs on the driver side pulled. With the turbo to the front of the engine the exhaust off the turbo runs along the side of the passenger side head before dropping down, I am not looking forward to changing out those glow plugs when the time comes.
    Aside from that, it would appear that my belt is trying to work itself off the alternator pulley. And I still need to sort out the OPS wiring, I know (I think) that of the three wires I need to figure out which is a 12v in off a constant power, which is a 12v out to the relay and which is the gauge. I have the lift pump powered off an ignition power source to try and get it running for the time being. My oil pressure gauge is showing pegged out and so far stays that way regardless of which wire off the OPS I plug into it...I'm wondering if that means the gauge itself is faulty?
    And I'm not super confident about the alternator wiring...have to get it running and make sure that it is charging and such.
    That's where I'm at, any insight or advice is appreciated. Thanks!
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    HMMMMM.

    Make sure the I P is powered up during cranking/key on

    With the plugs out, the lift pump on and spinning you should see fuel in less than a minute of free spinning of the engine..
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #90

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    There was a powered wire to the IP, but it was getting so hot you could barely touch it. Figured "this can't be right" and pulled it. Why would a mechanical IP need power to work? I'll dig into this this afternoon. Just a power wire off the ignition I assume? Thanks!
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  11. #91
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

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    Hi 3+3
    The power to the mechanical pump keeps the shutoff open while you have power.Killing the power is your engine shutoff.
    What injection pump did you get for the truck?
    The military pumps have a 24V shutoff.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  12. #92

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    I got the DB4911 from peninsular. It's amazing what I am learning from you all. I'll get some power to it today and see what happens. Thanks.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  13. #93
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,057

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    A 12v pump might get hot if connected to 24 volts, but not the other way around.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  14. #94
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    The pump goes CLICK when the power is connected.

    Check your feed line and then with the key on connect it to the shut off solenoid spade on the IP

    YOU SHOULD HEAR AN AUDIBLE CLICK
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  15. #95

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    That seemed to do it. I heard the click and started misting diesel out of the glow plug holes. I buttoned it all back up and tried to start it. It hasn't caught yet but I do have exhaust coming out of the tail pipe so diesel is in the combustion chambers. letting the batteries charge back up right now.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  16. #96

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    Turns out my glow plugs weren't kicking on, fixed that problem and it fired right up. Seems to be just as clackity sounding as the old 6.2 at idle...Maybe that's just how it is. I had hoped for a nice smooth purr, maybe getting the injection timing lined out and a little break in period will smooth it out some? We'll see. Turns out I have a leak in my oil cooler, I think when I was putting on the fittings for the lines I tweaked the whole thing a bit and broke something in the fins, it's leaking right above one of the fittings. Anyway, I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on this project. Finally.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  17. #97
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Sweeeeeeeeeeet

    Glad you got things coming together

    As far as sound goes, these engines are for the most part IDENTICAL

    Same internal geometry basically.

    The 6.5 has a slightly larger bore is all.

    The head layout is the same with only slight changes to the pre cups due to power levels and the addition of the turbo

    Emission regs were a tad different as well.

    The 6.5 with the electronic injection HAVE A LOT SHARPER RATTLE than with the mechanical pumps.

    The basic "RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE is not going to change.

    The design of a PRE CUP engine just makes them sound as they do.


    Don't expect much change in the sound even after fooling with the timing.

    The second terminal on the IP controls the "COLD ADVANCE SOLENOID" and when active will make the engine RATTLE A LOT HARDER.

    The cold advance needs to be wired through the COLD ADVANCE SWITCH that is normally located on the RH side rear of the RH head.

    This is a 2 prong thermal switch that closes when cold and opens at around 120 F

    The wiring should come from a 12 volt ignition switched source to the Cold advance switch, then on to the cold advance solenoid and also feed the fast idle solenoid (Mounts on the IP and holds the throttle open slightly when active to give about 1000 RPM)

    The fast idle solenoid activates when the key is turned on (cold start) and the throttle depressed while the glow plugs are heating up.

    TURN ON KEY, PRESS AND RELEASE THE THROTTLE THEN START WHEN THE GLOW LAMP GOES OUT.

    If you are using a manual switch on the glow plugs then just turn on key, press and release throttle, the glow for 10-20 seconds or a little longer when real cold, start engine.

    Fast idle and the cold advance will shut off in a short while as soon as the engine warms a bit.

    AS far as the timing goes, after the engine is warm and the cold advance is off the rattle should be much less and the tail pipe should be clear.

    If you get any wispy BLUE/WHITE smoke then the timing is retarded and needs to be advanced.

    WITH ENGINE OFF

    Loosen the 3 bolts holding the IP to the timing cover and advance the pump a tiny bit (one width of the witness mark at a time)

    When the engine is warmed up and the advance is manually activated (12 volts to advance connection) the rattle of the engine should increase noticeably and if not then the timing is retarded (or the advance is not working)


    Clean tail pipe and modest rattle will get you close on timing

    A Exhaust temp gauge will help a bunch.

    Retarded timing will cause the EGT to run HOT and smokey.

    Too much advance will cause a lot of hard rattle.

    Timing is important, but you can get things plenty close enough with the BUTT DYNO.


    Black smoke out the tail pipe is OK for a short time when mashing the throttle but should not ROLL COAL

    Clean smoke free idle even just after a cold start and all cyls are firing and the engine is running smooth.


    Good luck

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  18. #98

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    Thanks for all the information. Unfortunately I'm on hold again. I've had to order another oil cooler as I broke the other one making up the fittings to it. So, until that arrives I'm pretty much two blocked. More later...
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  19. #99

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    Pleasant surprise today, my new oil cooler showed up this morning...I believe some laws of physics must have been broken for it to get here so fast. I'm not going to complain. So I got that re-installed today and fired up again, only to discover diesel leaking. I found a pinhole leak on one of the fittings for the fuel return lines. Easy fix, the hardest part was finding the fitting.
    So now it's running and I've run out of time on this project. It goes to a mechanic tomorrow to finish up the wiring and then to the muffler shop to install the exhaust. I would have liked to see it through to the end but I've got to end this and get my truck back. Thanks for all your help on this, I enjoyed the project and learned a ton.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

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