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Thread: New oil to try

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default New oil to try

    Howdy
    I am trying out the Amsoil 20w50. It is a newer product from them with a diesel rating.
    I am trying it in my 1996 6.5 that has the typical low oil pressure syndrome and my daughters 1998 6.5 that is pretty normal. On first try I gained 5-7 PSI (factory gauge) on the 1996 and about 10 psi on the 1998.
    The 1996 would normally run 20 at hot idle and MAYBE get to 30 on the road, now it is at 25-30 hot idle and 35-40 road!
    I did also change the ops on the 1996 so that may have had something to with it.
    Anyways just putting it out there that there is another option that might help the low psi of some engines.
    Also if you are into extended drain intervals this might be a good option.
    Hope this helps!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    The hot oil pressure on the squirt blocks (Even the new AMG ones) is down right scarry.

    The old Dahoooooley runs about 40--45 down the road cold and then about 30 maybe hot, and the pressure at idle is enough to make you cringe.

    10 is about what the dash gauge shows.

    I would love to see 20 at a hot idle and 50 down the road.

    If I could go back and do it over easily I would use the non squirt bearings on all but the rear one, and just squirt cylinders 7 and 8

    This would benefit the hot cylinders and get some oil pressure up.

    Even just dropping the squirt from the front 2 would help.

    Those 8 big leaks really lose a lot of oil.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    An update about the oil. I am planning on using the Amsoil 20-50 diesel oil in my 1996 exclusively. It runs at a better oil pressure and also my oil temp seems to be down a few degrees. I had no starting problems in the winter. I gain oil pressure and this oil is also a zinc rich. I am a big believer in ZDDP
    So it might cost a little more but for the amount of miles I put on this truck(7-10k per year) I think the benefits are good enough.
    It is not listed in the amsoil catalog under diesel oils so you have to search under 20w50 to find it.
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Brooker, FL
    Posts
    1,217

    Default

    Many of you know I'm a recovering fuels and lubes engineer. I'm skeptical of Amzoil's specs/claims. Three of us have had diffy issues after using Amzoil gear lubes. While engine oil is much different, Amzoil's claims about its motor oils are a bit tenuous, IMHO.
    '94 Barth 28' Breakaway M/H ("StaRV II") diesel pusher: Spartan chassis, aluminum birdcage construction. Peninsular/AMG 6.5L TD (230HP), 18:1, Phazer, non-wastgated turbo, hi-pop injectors, 4L80E (Sun Coast TC & rebuild, M-H Pan), Dana 80 (M-H Cover), Fluidampr, EGT, trans temp, boost gage. Honda EV-4010 gaso genset, furnace, roof air, stove, microwave/convection, 2-dr. 3-way reefer. KVH R5SL Satellite. Cruises 2, sleeps 4, carries 6, and parties 8 (parties 12 - tested).

    Stand-ins are an '02 Cadillac Escalade AWD 6.0L and an '06 Toyota Sienna Limited.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    About nine years ago I was pretty skeptical of amsoil and was using only Mobil products. I got a good deal on some amsoil grease and thought I would try it. I noticed a difference. This was in trailer bearings and the grease was a racing product. I have been gradually trying more of their products and am pretty much switched over to all amsoil with the exception of some engine oils. I have engines that like other stuff better. I am not an engineer but I use what seems to work best for me. I have never had an issue with any amsoil gear lubes be it in diffs or gear boxes. I have a couple of diffs with well over 200k and they look great. I am not trying to sell any product but just sharing my experience with the new oil that they are offering.
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    The hot oil pressure on the squirt blocks (Even the new AMG ones) is down right scarry.

    The old Dahoooooley runs about 40--45 down the road cold and then about 30 maybe hot, and the pressure at idle is enough to make you cringe.

    10 is about what the dash gauge shows.

    I would love to see 20 at a hot idle and 50 down the road.

    If I could go back and do it over easily I would use the non squirt bearings on all but the rear one, and just squirt cylinders 7 and 8

    This would benefit the hot cylinders and get some oil pressure up.

    Even just dropping the squirt from the front 2 would help.

    Those 8 big leaks really lose a lot of oil.
    I'm confused by this, ma'am. I thought the squirter 6.5 blocks had a higher flow oil pump? And that the fittings for the oil cooler on the block were larger i.d. to handle that flow. Long story, but I had a squirter block 6.5 installed in my '93 C2500 several years ago that had a non-squirter oil pump on it. And, yeah, the hot oil pressure was bad scary. I put the correct higher flow pump on it and it has always held higher hot oil pressure than my previous non-squirter engine. Surely the new AMG engines have the correct oil pump installed?

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