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Thread: Help with diagnosis

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantom309 View Post
    I haven't done a koko since i did it when i changed pmd's, i'm not sure why you think the stepper is seized, if i unplug the ect it rattles with lots of timing,. In fact that was the first work around i did. When i start it cold(25f here) it rattles hard till it warms a little and the rpm slows,.
    troubles would always start at 175f,. As if a switch had been turned on,. If i were to start the engine at 150 it would behave normal till it warmed a little more.
    Nobody seems to have an answer as to why 175f is so relevant to a 6.5,.
    There is lots of confusion on obd2 in general on 6.5's.

    I can remember being told on another forum that i got banned from my 5068 pump wouldn't run with the chip set for 5521,. That was After i had been running it for 6 months,.

    So another 6.5 quirk with a wonky resistor unexplaianed.
    I didn't say I thought the stepper was seized... I said: "I would be interested to know whether the stepper is moving." The more likely part(s) that would be subject to seizing is/are the "advance piston" and related parts.

    The timing stepper motor pulls up on the pivot shaft to advance fuel injection timing.

    Why were you banned on another forum?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post

    Why were you banned on another forum?
    Turbine doc and i went a couple of rounds when i posted what my motor put down on the dyno with a converter lockup switch.. Was called a liar, i don't take kindly to that. I was using a chip of unknown origins, with the 5068 pump. Was told it wasn't possible.
    Even the dyno printout was questioned Tim was a moderator and didn't like my tone in a pm so i was banned. That was a pm, not a post on the public forum.
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantom309 View Post
    Turbine doc and i went a couple of rounds when i posted what my motor put down on the dyno with a converter lockup switch.. Was called a liar, i don't take kindly to that. I was using a chip of unknown origins, with the 5068 pump. Was told it wasn't possible.
    Even the dyno printout was questioned Tim was a moderator and didn't like my tone in a pm so i was banned. That was a pm, not a post on the public forum.
    Thanks for answering. I always thought Turbine Doc was a good guy.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    Thanks for answering. I always thought Turbine Doc was a good guy.
    He is well respected and liked in the 6.5 community, from what i remember he used to roost here then moved to the place then finally truckstop.

    All old news
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post

    Performing a Timing Offset procedure corrects it. Can you do this? Not being able to perform a Timing Offset Procedure usually requires a new pump.
    Well,.i finally bought enough double double coffee’s that the young guy that owns a local shop hooked his box up to the truck. It’s showing 10.5 deg timing when idling with -1.50 tdco?
    But,. When he tried to do tdco procedure it started lumping and smoking like it did before,.so he cancelled and it wemt back to running nice.
    I can unplug the ect and you can hear advanced timing,.when it starts cold it rattles for a while. So it is changing its timing,?
    You state if it wont do the tdco learn the pump is nfg? Why?
    My mileage, with cold weather starts and high idle on, is still 19.2 mpg with 3:73’s and 265-75 tires. I’m happy with things and even if the pump is pooched i’m going to runit till it quits,. Sleeping dogs etc,..
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi

  6. #26
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    It's been since 2006, but, isn't it the case that if it stalls during the TDCO procedure the base timing is way off? Try advancing the pump an eighth of an inch and re-running the TDCO set again. -1.5 is a good number, IIRC, but is the number stored last time TDCO set completed successfully, and probably has nothing to do with your current situation.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    It's been since 2006, but, isn't it the case that if it stalls during the TDCO procedure the base timing is way off? Try advancing the pump an eighth of an inch and re-running the TDCO set again. -1.5 is a good number, IIRC, but is the number stored last time TDCO set completed successfully, and probably has nothing to do with your current situation.
    2006 john? I’m confused?

    The truck did do a succesful koko when i changed pmd’s ,.. and has been running great since. Starts cold well( 1 hole catches up after 4-5 seconds) good on fuel , plenty of power, cruise works😁,. I was just curious to see what it was actually set at, and the guy just tried a tdco learn on his own volition. I almost crapped myself when it started making smoke and running rough!! He cancelled it and i basically said leave it alone thanks very much!! 😳
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi

  8. #28
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    If it ain't broke don't screw with it eh

    i agree :d:d
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantom309 View Post
    2006 john? I’m confused?
    2006 since I owned a 6.5.

    If it can't run the TDCO set then I think that means the pump's base timing has shifted outside of the window in which it can operate correctly. This might account for why it won't run right with the sensor connected.

    Or, I could be miss remembering...
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    2006 since I owned a 6.5.

    If it can't run the TDCO set then I think that means the pump's base timing has shifted outside of the window in which it can operate correctly. This might account for why it won't run right with the sensor connected.

    Or, I could be miss remembering...
    It's been a while, but that sounds about right. If the timing set is worn, higher than stock TCDO (1.00- or less, IIRC) can cause this, as the timing won't be as stable. Essentially the same to the PCM as a flakey crank sensor. The offset window fluctuates in/out of the acceptable range.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
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  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    2006 since I owned a 6.5.

    If it can't run the TDCO set then I think that means the pump's base timing has shifted outside of the window in which it can operate correctly. This might account for why it won't run right with the sensor connected.

    Or, I could be miss remembering...
    Quote Originally Posted by phantom309 View Post
    CRAZY Update: fixed.

    I have been picking away at this thing on warmer days,. I reasoned i had a problem with crank position sensor wiring,. I knew i had steady 5v and good ground, so unplugged the signal wire pin at the connector by the thermostat and ran it direct to ecm. Cleared codes,... bupkiss. As soon as it hit 175f back to barely idle clouds of smoke with quick bursts of timing and rpm jump to 900 for half a second. So feeling homicidal and suicidal at the same time, i searched the interwebs again and found a guy had had the identical troubles, all taking place about 3 weeks after a new pmd and resistor was installed. His fuel injection pump guy told him to use his old resistor and it cured the problem. My pmd is on the inner fender on a heat sink, and i've been carrying my pickup pmd next to it, i plugged in pkup pmd, i had already cleared codes, so i initiated koko, then fired it. Well holy faaa* !! It idled smooth, drove fine, i ran some errands today multiple starts ( after 1 turn mebbe!!) no codes! runs like a champ and cruise works now,. I'm so happy i could just,...... well anyway.
    So a bad resistor? Pmd?
    What is the significance of 175f? Is it from closed to open loop? Is it running on fixed tables till 175? then it verifies resistor value?
    How many koko's will the ecm revert to its last known value for a resistor before it needs verification?
    Questions i wish i could read up on
    It’s been a long thread,. But it is fixed john, it just wont do tdco.
    I have no desire to put a wrench on it. 😁
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi

  12. #32
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    If its running good and is reliable then that's all ya need.

    Screwing around with it further could open up a can of worms that you simply need to leave tightly closed.

    If the check engine lamp is off the computer is happy..

    No worries at this time.

    I would do the same if it were mine.

    Not broke...don't fool with it
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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