Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: 6.2 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Basin, Wyoming
    Posts
    2

    Default 6.2 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

    I have a 1982 GMC K3500 6.2 and I need to know how to replace the valve cover gaskets.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    The 6.2/6.5 do not use gaskets.

    The covers are sealed with a high temp silicone sealer (Gooooo in a tube)

    Procedure

    Remove the intake manifold (Unhook wires, throttle cables etc)
    *** NOTE***
    Coolant crossover stays in place and there will be no leaks when removing manifold

    Carefully clean the intake port area of old gasket and protect against dropping junk in the ports.

    Cover ports with Duct tape while working on the area.

    Mark each injector line PAIR with tape 1-3 ... 5-7 2-4... 6-8
    Label them

    Make a carewful map of where they connect to the IP and in what order.

    Remove the small sheet metal screws holding the line clamps to the Valve covers.

    Remove the nuts the hold the line clamps at the manifold bolts (Usually when you remove the intake.

    Loosen the injector lines from the injectors (Cover the injector fitting to keep out junk)

    Loosen the line fittings at the IP *** A 3/8 drive crow foot works well for removing the injector lines at the IP ***

    Cover the Fittings of the IP with a clean shop towel

    ***Before removing lines use a shop vac a clean the valley area of debris ***

    With the lines off you can carefully unbolt and remove the Valve covers.

    Use a thin sharp putty knife to slide in between the head and cover to help cut the silicone goop.

    DO NOT GET ROUGH WITH THE COVERS AS THEY ARE THIN AND CAN BE TWEAKED EASILY

    Clean all the goop off the cover sealer area and then lay the cover on a flat steel surface and tap down any spots where the bolt area has been distorted.

    The covers need to be very very clean in the area where the goop goes.

    Clean off the head area where the cover fits.

    Once cleaned of old goop, wipe the area well with a rag soaked in BRAKEKLEEN to remove all oil traces

    THESE AREAS MUST BE CLEAN, OIL FREE AND DRY.

    Apply high temp black silicone goop to the seal area of the cover (1/4 inch thick and be sure to cover the entire area that contacts the head flange.

    Carefully sit the cover on he head and install the bolts.

    Lightly snug the bolt (LIGHTLY)

    Let the goop cure over night and then snug the bolts on to full torque.
    (Snug with a short wrench)
    Do not over tighten

    Reattach the lines and the parts you removed.

    First start is a bit tough.

    Remove glow plugs and spin engine until fuel mist appears.

    Replace plugs and start normally

    *** This maneuver makes getting the air purged from the injector lines far easier on the starter, batteries and your patience ***


    DO NOT BE TEMPTED BY THE DARK SIDE

    Do not bend the injector lines to make the job quicker
    Do not use gaskets,... they will leak


    Good luck
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Howdy
    IMHO....the best "goop" on the market BY FAR, is a product called "The Right Stuff", it works great! just follow the directions as it is different than standard "goop"
    Good Luck!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    X2
    Right stuff is great.
    Little more $$$ but great stuff.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Basin, Wyoming
    Posts
    2

    Default 6.2 intake manifold torque specification and tightening sequence

    I am at the final on this and need to know what the torque specification and tightening sequence is.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    84

    Default

    Anyone know the answer to the question above? I will be doing this over the long weekend and this last bit of info would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

    Andy
    1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Pauline, SC
    Posts
    618

    Default

    Well if you are using "the right stuff" snug would be the answer.. you want it to cure well and not squeeze it out..
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

    like us on Facebook

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    What I have done in the past with great results..

    Clean all surfaces really good (no oil allowed)
    Make sure the VC flange is flat and straight (no bumps around bolt holes)

    Squirt a good bead of HIGH TEMP SILICONE into the VC flange.
    Place VC on head and install all the bolts and then barely snug them up (Just so the silicone mushes a bit)

    Let the silicone set up over night and then SNUG THE BOLTS WITH A SHORT WRENCH (1/4 DRIVE RATCHET)

    You will get the best and most secure (leak free) job

    If you are worried about the bolts loosening up....use a touch of BLUE LOCTITE on the threads after the goop has set up (Remove the bolts one at a time and add the LT )

    Too tight and the VC warps.

    Gaskets are a guaranteed leak
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    84

    Default

    Thanks guys. This is really helpful stuff. Hope to get this done today.

    Andy
    1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    84

    Default

    This is as far as I got yesterday:

    11A7D76A-1A53-455C-9433-760BDCDA1596.jpg

    21DE1E5D-110F-49F8-BA1F-123C4ADE73FB.jpg

    Have the Right Stuff on the bench ready to go, will pull the valve covers off this afternoon as soon as I get off work. If I’m reading the instructions correctly, the Right Stuff only takes 5 minutes to cure, is that correct? Not that I will be cranking the truck up tonight anyways, as there is other work to do. But if that cure time is correct then that seems to remove the overnight step and I can go ahead and put the engine top back together.

    Either way, thanks for the step by step tutorial Robyn. I have followed it to the letter so far and have not had any issues.
    1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    Good to hear...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by AugustDiesel View Post
    This is as far as I got yesterday: Have the Right Stuff on the bench ready to go, will pull the valve covers off this afternoon as soon as I get off work. If I’m reading the instructions correctly, the Right Stuff only takes 5 minutes to cure, is that correct? Not that I will be cranking the truck up tonight anyways, as there is other work to do. But if that cure time is correct then that seems to remove the overnight step and I can go ahead and put the engine top back together.

    Either way, thanks for the step by step tutorial Robyn. I have followed it to the letter so far and have not had any issues.
    Not sure where you read/heard that. It cures like any other RTV (which is what it is, only a better version). A couple hours to set, and a day, more or less, to cure. Don't skip the overnight step. If you tighten it down too early, it will squish out. In some applications like with flat surface gaskets and low pressure, it can be placed into service sooner. But not in applications like the VC. Crankcase impulses will blow it out.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    84

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    Not sure where you read/heard that. It cures like any other RTV (which is what it is, only a better version). A couple hours to set, and a day, more or less, to cure. Don't skip the overnight step. If you tighten it down too early, it will squish out. In some applications like with flat surface gaskets and low pressure, it can be placed into service sooner. But not in applications like the VC. Crankcase impulses will blow it out.
    Thanks for the heads up. To answer your question: it’s on the back of the can. HOWEVER, I am following the procedures as you and Robyn have outlined, REGARDLESS of what the can says. Fortunately I did not rush into this and due to time constraints have not been able to get the valve covers back on this week, but should be able to get it done this upcoming week. I plan to do as directed: apply the Right Stuff, and reinstall VC, barely snugged, next day remove VC bolts to add blue loctite and reinstall and torque.
    1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,382

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by AugustDiesel View Post
    ...I plan to do as directed: apply the Right Stuff, and reinstall VC, barely snugged, next day remove VC bolts to add blue loctite and reinstall and torque.
    A 5mm bead is sufficient. A little sealant will find its way onto the threads of the bolts - a little is actually preferred. That's enough to keep them from loosening - thread locker isn't normally needed. Just don't let more than a little sealant find its way into the bolt holes. It'll prevent the bolts from reaching full depth.

    As a way of relating... The valve covers installed on our 6.5 Power Project engine were installed as outlined here. The valve cover bolts didn't loosen and there was no oil leakage for 300,000 miles. Jim

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •