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Thread: Oil Pan Tech

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    12,282

    Default Oil Pan Tech

    After running into a snag on the DaHooooley build number 2 I decided to write this little ditty on oil pans.

    The 6.2 and 6.5 engines are always refered to as almost identical, well thats true, ALMOST being the key word.

    Several adaptations of the oil pan have been made over the years and aside from the odd stuff for some vans and Hummers they fall into some basic catagories

    Early 6.2 engines
    Late 6.2 engines
    6.5 engines

    The early 6.2 stuff for Burbs Blazers and pickups (4x4) will see a pan with a basically rectangle shaped sump

    This pan will be for stuff made from 82 to 86

    The 6.2 in this era had a two piece rear main seal setup

    Now starting in mid 87 ( for 88 model year production) came along a major change.
    The GMT 400 trucks with the IFS front ends (4x4) and the pan was changed.

    These pans still fit the two piece rear main seal engines but have some changes made in the sump of the pan.

    There is a angled off area on the LH front side of the sump, that was done to allow clearance for the front differential.

    The drain plug was also moved to the rear of the sump on the LH side.

    This incarnation of the oil pan will fit any 6.2 with the two piece rear main seal from 82 to 87.

    Not long after this time frame came the addition of the one piece rear main.

    The 6.5 was coming to production soon and the block castings were in the works.
    The block was changed to allow the use of the one piece rear main and this casting was used on all the new 6.2 engines and then this rolled right on into the 6.5 engines in the 92 model year.

    With the addition of the one piece rear main seal came a modification in the oil pan.

    The pan looks identical to the previous incarnation except for a change in the arch over the rear main seal.

    The new pan has a higher arch to accomodate the larger casting for the single piece rear main seal.

    These new pans will fit any 6.5 and the really late 6.2 engines.

    *** The late 6.2 engines were done on the 599 casting and just bore a little smaller is all.*****


    Now the task of buying a used oil pan can get troublesome if you are looking at only one pan out in the bone yard or some shop.

    The sumps are easily identified with the old stuff having a more rectangular sump and the newer ones having the angle on the LH front of the sump.

    The real issue is the arch at the rear.

    ******** A two piece rear main seal type pan ***********
    Place the pan on a flat surface (pan rail down) or use a straight edge across the rails.

    Measure from the pan rail to the center of the arch (deepest part)
    This should measure 2-1/2 inches (approx)

    A one piece rear main seal pan for the late 6.2 and 6.5 engines will measure 2-7/8 inches.

    Now Hummers, vans and maybe some other stuff may have a few different configurations for clearance on the frame or other stuff but, the way that the pan fits the engine is all the same.

    There may even be some odd ball placement of the dipsticks, I simply dont have access to all the different odd stuff.

    Hummers are definately a breed all their own.

    I had issues with finding a pan for DaHooooley as the only 6.2 pan I owned came from a 1985 2500 4x4 truck.

    Definately will not fit.

    The real late stuff will fit fine in the older straight axle trucks.

    Hope this helps someone thats trying to find a pan for a 6.2 swap into a later rig.

    The odd pan for the 6.2 engines was used from 88 to 91
    91 being the introduction of the one piece rear main seal in the 6.2

    Late 91 6.2 engines likely have the one piece rear main.

    These running changes were done as tooling along the lines were changed.
    The introduction of the GMT400 trucks changed several things. The Burbs, Blazers and crew cabs stayed with the old square bodies until the end of the 91 production.

    Many of the changes followed on into the older style trucks and some did not.

    Soo if your out in the bone yard getting rady to snag a lovely pan off of a wreck, you need first to pull the bellhousing cover and make sure what rea main seal is on the engine.

    Its easy to see in there with a flashlight.

    Sooooooooooo many of the older trucks have seen much later engines transplanted into them over the years.

    So just because its a 1988 Burb (example) does not mean that the engine is an 88 6.2 engine.

    Nope, it could have a 95 6.5 transplanted in there and the accessories including the IP swapped over.

    OH YEAH BUDDY

    All sorts of combinations have been morphed into these trucks.

    With the two measurements I mentioned earlier though, you can separate the two major changes and at least get a pan that will fit.

    I have seen some folks use a 6.5 pan on the early 6.2 and just GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOP the rear main saddle area with silicone.

    Don't do it' just not worth the risk of a HUGE oil leak later.

    I have also seen a cute little spacer made to fill the gap.

    The one I saw was done very nice and had a little groove that fit around the rear pan arch and set down onto the rubber strap over the main cap.

    Too darned easy (so far) to find the correct pans.

    I would avoid the advertisers that offer "OEM quality Replacement" pans

    I bought one for this project.

    NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT even going on this engine.

    Have fun troops

    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Brooker, FL
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    Default

    We appreciate your exhaustive (and sometimes involuntary) "research".
    '94 Barth 28' Breakaway M/H ("StaRV II") diesel pusher: Spartan chassis, aluminum birdcage construction. Peninsular/AMG 6.5L TD (230HP), 18:1, Phazer, non-wastgated turbo, hi-pop injectors, 4L80E (Sun Coast TC & rebuild, M-H Pan), Dana 80 (M-H Cover), Fluidampr, EGT, trans temp, boost gage. Honda EV-4010 gaso genset, furnace, roof air, stove, microwave/convection, 2-dr. 3-way reefer. KVH R5SL Satellite. Cruises 2, sleeps 4, carries 6, and parties 8 (parties 12 - tested).

    Stand-ins are an '02 Cadillac Escalade AWD 6.0L and an '06 Toyota Sienna Limited.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    72

    Default

    So my engine leaks oil like crazy. I got the Rear Main replaced about 20,000 miles ago (on a 40K old engine) and it's pissing oil out the back like crazy again. I took the bellhousing off and discovered this:



    Is that a mismatch of the pan and block and thus an open hole? Or is my rear main F-ed up yet again?

    Also I was never able to install the front hanger hook on my starter that I just read was so important. could that be torquing things and temporarily or permanently messing up my Rear Main or pan seal?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Snoqualmie, WA
    Posts
    59

    Default Dipstick placement on a van

    I have a 599 6.2 that came out of a P30 Step Van that has a beat up oil pan. I'm considering buying a 'take off' pan from Peninsular. From your writeup, I'm sure the 6.5 pan will fit, but don't want to bother if it means I need to hunt down a new dipstick assembly. Do you know if the standard 6.5 pans will accept a van-style dipstick that joins the pan on the driver's side?
    1978 Jeep Wagoneer, 1993 6.2L J-code 599 and a Banks Sidewinder.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    Take a Piccy of the spot that the stick enters the pan.

    The standard pan has a little tube the protrudes out the side of the pan on the LH side and the dip stick slips in ans seals with an "O" ring.


    The Pans are the same, just the dipstick is different for the vans.

    Missy
    Last edited by Robyn; 12-31-2011 at 16:33.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Snoqualmie, WA
    Posts
    59

    Default Pan from 6.2 Step Van

    It looks like mine is the same that Peninsular sells. They say that the pans they sell as 'takeoff' parts is GM Part # 12563902 which appears to be the correct part for most, if not all 6.2L 599 and probably most 6.5L. At $60 their price is less than half most other options.

    Here's a pic of the LH side of mine:
    1978 Jeep Wagoneer, 1993 6.2L J-code 599 and a Banks Sidewinder.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Seneca, MO
    Posts
    8

    Default 82 6.2 in 92 Chevy 4X4

    My neighbor has an 82 6.2 engine that he would like to put in his 92 Chevy 1/2 ton 4X4. Would there be enough clearance between the oil pan and the front diff, or should a newer pan be used that was made for the GMT 400 trucks? He already has a 90 degree oil filter adapter to allow clearance for the drive shaft.

    Thanks,
    Justin
    1993 Chevy K2500, 6.5L TD/4L80e, Ex. Cab/Long Bed, 4.10s 216K mi.
    2001 VW Jetta TDI 5 spd.
    1994 Chevy K2500 Suburban, 6.5L TD/4l80e, 4.10s, 226K mi.
    1984 Chevy K5 Blazer, 6.2L N/A, 700R4, 3.73s (Dad purchased it new in 84)
    1980 Chevy K20, 6.2L Conversion, SM465, 4.10s (Grandpa purchased it new in 80, Originally 292 I6)
    1970 Chevy C20, 305, SM465 (Soon to get a 6.2L)
    1982 Chevy K10, 6.2L N/A, 700R4 (Sold)
    1990 GMC R1500 Suburban, 6.2L N/A, 700R4 (Wrecked)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    The early 6.2 will drop right in, BUTTTTTTTTTTTT the pan will need to be changed to a later style pan.

    The pan thats needed is the one from an 88 to 90, 6.2 engine

    A 6.5 pan will fit but the rear arch over the rear main is too high due to the one piece rear main on the newer engines.

    The real late 6.2 engines also used the late style pan/same as 6.5

    So he needs to scare up an 88 to 90 6.2 pan. These had the angled slope on the LH front of the sump area that allows the pan to fit around the front differential unit.

    Good luck

    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    USA,Pennsylvania
    Posts
    33

    Default

    This is what I had to deal with and what I did. I put a 1982 6.2 into a 1991 GMC 2500 4x4 that I changed the 4:11 front diff with a 3:42 one. I didn't know at the time but the 4:11 diff with 8 lug CV axles was a couple inches longer than the 3:42 one with 6 lug axles out of a 1992. Your half ton probably has the shorter one. Anyhow, all I had to do was grind a little clearance on 2 aluminum ribs on the diff for the pan to clear. The drain plug is more to the front of the sump, but can still be reached. I don't know if it would have worked with my origional longer front diff. I also had to use a 90 degree oil filter adapter to clear the driveshaft.

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