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Thread: 6.2/6.5 assembly tips

  1. #21
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    Never been to NC. Fact is never been farther east than Wyoming.

    You are very welcome.

    I have the time to do the pix as the engine goes back together so I figured it would be a nice thing for a lot of folks.

    Even the factory manuals are sorely lacking in so many cases.
    The pix they offer are hardly better than sketches in many cases.

    The 6.2/6.5 diesel is really not much different than a basic Gas V8

    With the injection system off the engine there is little difference.

    Basic rebuild procedures are all about the same.

    Glad you find the stuff useful.

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
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  2. #22
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    Timing marks on the
    Pump gears
    and the pump bolts

    Ok
    The timing marks are well shown in the attached picture.
    The dots on the pump gear and the cam gear are self explanatory.

    With the cam gear "DOT" facing up (top of engine) align the pump gear "Dot" with the cam gear "Dot"
    Your set.

    Now the pump slides into the housing with ease and is held in place by three (3) nuts.

    The pump can only go into the gear ONE (1) way.
    The bolt pattern on the IP is not symetrical and there is also a PIN on the IP flange that indexes with a slot in the gear.

    Unless your the worlds biggest PUTZ
    you can not scew this up.

    The stuff simply will not go together wrong.

    The only exception is the timing marks
    "DOTS"
    If the marks are right, your all set to go with NO WORRIES.

    Crank sprocket dot indexed with cam sprocket dot
    Cam gear is keyed to cam.
    The cam sprocket dot is indexed with the pump gear dot.

    One last thing Be sure to use BLUE Loctite on the bolts that hold the gear to the pump.

    one of these falls out GAME OVER

    Job DONE

    Missy
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  3. #23
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    Bolting on the heads

    Now here we have a nice little chart that shows the head bolt torqueing sequence.

    Now a word to the wise.
    The 1st stop is shown at 20 Lbs. BS, not gonna happen

    Spin all the bolts in snug with a speed handle.

    Now take them down in the sequence shown to 25 ftlbs.
    At 25 they will hold there and not keep moving.

    Now take the complete set through the sequence to 50 ft lbs.
    Run through a second time to be sure they are all holding at 50 ftlbs.

    Now go through the sequence and give each bolt 1/4 turn more.

    This is a 90 degree turn on the bar. I like to mark each bolt head as I do them to make sure I dont miss one.

    Now, the part they dont tell you.

    Take your torque wrench and starting at number one (1) bolt pull the wrench up and see at what point the bolt will just start to move.

    My experience shows this to be at or around 100 ft Lbs.

    Go back through the sequence and check each bolt as you carefully ease it up to the 100 ftlb or so mark.

    You will likely find that one or more bolts will fall short of the 100 ftlbs.
    I have found the some of the first ones in the sequence will be a little light on the torque after the final 1/4 turn.. (75 ft lbs or so)

    With the DaHooooley engine the RH head using the MLS gasket from Cometic displayed a whole different feel upon torqueing.

    The last 1/4 turn was a BITCH and I really had to lay into the break bar to get it.

    This tells me that the Felpro gaskets are compressing a lot and that last 1/4 turn is causing things to move a little more.

    All the bolts felt real good at 50+ pounds but after the final 1/4 turn things did move some more.

    Just a good thing to do that final check and be sure all the bolts are the same torque.

    I have never been a fan of the TTY bolts. There are several companies that make regular bolts for the 6.2/6.5.

    Also there are stud kits available too.

    Main issue is to be sure your bolts are all even.

    one bolt that does not come up to par can cause issues.
    This can be a leaky gasket down the road many miles or also an area of the block that is not under the same stress levels.

    I have always just used the chart and done the 1/4 turn thing, Hmmmm seems that the tried and true stuff from the General is not perfect

    Hope this helps.

    Missy
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  4. #24
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    Oil filter adapter
    O Rings
    Here is a piccy of the O rings needed for the right angle mount used on the 6.5 in the pickups and burbs

    (4X4)

    These rings can at times be tough for some parts guys to find.

    The part numbers are GM numbers so your all set to go.

    Missy
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  5. #25
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    Injector return hose
    Kit
    From Dipaco
    Here is a pix of the Dipaco diesel parts return hose kit.
    This kit contains everything you will need to either rehose existing injectors that have some leaky hoses or to do a fresh set...

    The hoses have a nice braid on them and you dont need clamps on the ends either, just push them on and go.

    There are two little rubber end caps for the number 7 and 8 injectors to cap the unused return port.

    Also included is a gasket for the top hat on the Turbo models and it includes a gasket for the aircleaner on the N/A motors.

    The hoses can easily be trimmed to length to suit the need.

    There are also 8 copper injector seal rings too.

    A great kit at a reasonable price.

    The part number is right on the package as seen in the pix.

    Easy to use and you get it all in one package.

    GM sells all the stuff too but you buy it by the piece.
    The GM hoses require the clamps, the Dipaco do not.

    Clamps only needed for the end caps.

    Missy
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  6. #26
    Burning Oil's Avatar
    Burning Oil is offline http://www.lubedealer.com/pmdcable/home.aspx
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    Very nice write up.

    One thing I like to do, instead of using the rubber caps in the return hose kit. I use a short piece of the braided hose apply sealant to a small allen head screw and insert it into the hose then install that inplace of the caps. The rubber seems to not last long. The caps over time will crack. The braided hose is more durable.

    Thanks again for the great write ups.
    Leroy
    1993 4x4 1ton 6.5/4l80e runs on WVO.
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    1996 1ton 4x4 crew cab dually with Cummins diesel
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    1972 Chevelle convertible with 540 CID engine.

    We sell pmd extension cables and the Flight systems PMD or the new Stanadyne PMD with available 7 year warranty.
    Turbo Boost Bolts, engine oil cooler kits and lots of 6.5 turbo diesel parts. Check out the web site
    .

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  7. #27
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    Glad to help

    Been using the DaHoooley build to get loads of pix.

    So many folks just feel intimidated by these engines and much of this stuff will help out a bunch for the first timer through a 6.2/6.5

    I will keep the stuff coming through the final stages of the build.
    I am thinking about a video on the startup of the Fresh Yellow Motor.


    later

    MGW
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  8. #28
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    A word of caution
    When installing the return hoses on the injectors, the job is not at all hard.

    There are a couple areas that can reach up and grab you by the BUTTTTTTTTTTTT

    The injectors dont always screw in with the return nipples all in a neat row, NOT EVEN.

    No matter. Install a squeeze clamp (Constant torque) on the rear cap plug from the kit and with the clamp slightly squeezed slip it over the rear most nipple.

    Now the traverse hoses need to be shortened a little bit to fit clean and neat. (about 1-1/2 Inches off the provided length)

    The LH side is a snap. fit the last one up front so it neatly connects to the Xover return pipe.

    Now the RH side can require a tad more care. The center hoses run behind the metal heat shield, and if things are not perfect, and they never are, the center two return lines will rub on the two little ventilator tabs that stick into the area behind the shield.

    Now the hoses are covered with braid, but can rub on the shield and over time will possibly wear a hole.

    A ruptured line on the turbo side can be a serious fire hazard.

    The spray of fuel under the shield ignites, then the blast of air from the fan turns the area into a Blow torch and turns you grand old truck into a crispy critter.

    To eliminate the issue, simply thread the return line through a piece of fuel line that just allows the small line to pass. Center the "softener" line up so it will hit the shield instead of the little one.

    This will prevent a very serious issue from happening.


    Have fun and enjoy.

    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #29
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    Another important area to clean up

    The RH reaR OF the block just below the deck and around the back of the cylinder case.

    The glow plug wires and a few other important wires lay in this area.

    They feed behind the heat shield and over the starter.

    The nasty flashing on the casting has, can and will tear up the wiring.

    You can see in the pix that this area has been ground smooth.

    Takes only a few minutes and will save a buttload of grief later on if you get a short in the wiring.

    Robyn
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  10. #30
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    The 6.5 TD project has come to a successful conclusion.

    Anyone needing specific advice or that have questions are more than welcome to either post to the 6.5 board or PM me with any questions.


    Thanks

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
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  11. #31
    rogers's Avatar
    rogers is offline Where there's smoke.... There's fire!
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    Default Just a few things

    Hi, all.

    I am currently rebuilding my own dually, and ran into a couple of things I thought might be helpful.

    First is the picture below. Notice how the bearing covers one side more than the other? This "empty" side should be assembled to the outside of the rod journal. On my rods, I noticed that correctly assembled with the "empty" to the outside all of the stamped numbers faced away from the crank.


    This next picture shows the rod half snugged up on the journal. It is a bad picture but if you look closely you can see that the bearing is absent from over the deep rolled fillet on the outside of the journal. This is why the bearing as seen in the first picture doesn't cover all of that side.


    This next picture just shows me using a long punch inserted through the piston pin to hold the piston just out of the cylinder. This trick holds the piston in place so I can get the ring compressor around the rings while it is sitting in the hole.


    Hope these help someone. I will try and add more as I come across it.
    1996 GMC K3500 Crew Cab Dually 8ft bed
    Rebuilt engine 2/10 18:1 pistons, forged crank, Fluidamper, dsg gear drive timing, high flow oil pump, rebuilt GM8, turbomaster, Kennedy ECM, 4" exhaust, wrapped cross-over and down pipe, '98+ cooling, Duramax fan, aftermarket oil cooler and hoses
    Rebuilt tranny 2/10

  12. #32
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    Thank you for sharing.

    Great stuff for those just getting their wrenching "FEET" wet

    Believe me, I have seen engines put together with the rods in Backwards

    I have personally pulled apart a 6.2 that had the recardo bowls (Indents in pistons) at the top of the cylinder instead of the bottom.

    They will run that way.

    Oh yess all these little things are very usefull


    Thanks again


    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
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  13. #33
    rogers's Avatar
    rogers is offline Where there's smoke.... There's fire!
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    Default oil by-pass valves and oil pump bolt

    On my 599 block (I will assume all 599's until someone corrects me) the oil cooler by-pass valve (this is the one close to the block and covered by the freeze plug thingy) is acdelco part #25161285. The oil filter by-pass valve is the same as is used on the 6.2l block. It is acdelco part #25011206. These parts are getting hard to source. Bottom line, don't let your machine shop toss the valves!! If you have a later block the oil cooler by-pass is the same number as above but the oil filter by-pass is acdelco part #25014006.

    Also on my 599 block the oil pump bolt is 10mm where the later blocks are 12mm. Just some things to be aware of.
    1996 GMC K3500 Crew Cab Dually 8ft bed
    Rebuilt engine 2/10 18:1 pistons, forged crank, Fluidamper, dsg gear drive timing, high flow oil pump, rebuilt GM8, turbomaster, Kennedy ECM, 4" exhaust, wrapped cross-over and down pipe, '98+ cooling, Duramax fan, aftermarket oil cooler and hoses
    Rebuilt tranny 2/10

  14. #34
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    Rogers,

    Thanks for the info on the rod bearing, and placement. Nice trick on holding the piston in the bore while getting your ring compressor ready. Heck, I'll try it on this next couple of engines...

  15. #35
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    Good info. During my current rebuild, which still is not back in the truck, I marked the rod caps with a punch on their upper-most side during dissasembly. In my haste, I got the first 2 wrong (how in the heck can you do that?). I tried to reassemble them according to my scheme and found that the caps that were turned over incorrectly were binding the rotating assembly, easily noticed when turning the assembly over with a wrench on the balancer bolt.

    And yes, I also installed some of the pistons upside down. But that mistake was easy to catch and just cost me more time.
    Black 95 6.5TD, 929 block, 173k miles, 65k on IP, 48k miles on self-rebuilt engine done in '09, 6 L&S Full-torque inserts in outer main crank holes, Clearwater heads, Fluidamper, rebuilt NV4500, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, no cat, dual T-stats, 9 blade fan, spin-on 180 degree clutch, Heath hi-flow water pump and turbomaster, PMD relocated, OPS relay mod, Heath PROM upgrade, and Kennedy headlight harness upgrade soon. Now use semi-syn Lucas 2-cycle oil every fill-up which greatly reduces the frequency of DTC 35-36 codes the PCM/ECM throws.

  16. #36
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    I always stamp the rods on the outside with numbers 1-8 and do both the cap and the rod.
    I do this as I tear the engine down.

    Makes life a whole bunch easier later on.

    Years ago the rods were all marked from the factory. Today with all the select fit stuff they dont do it anymore.

    Getting a set of caps mixed up can be problematic.

    Just easier to mark them with a number right off.


    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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