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6.5L Turbo Diesel 1992-00 6.5TD - Discussion forum for the 6.5L engine.

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  #91  
Old 09-28-2017, 08:49 AM
Yukon6.2 Yukon6.2 is offline
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Hi 3+3
The power to the mechanical pump keeps the shutoff open while you have power.Killing the power is your engine shutoff.
What injection pump did you get for the truck?
The military pumps have a 24V shutoff.
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  #92  
Old 09-28-2017, 12:14 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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I got the DB4911 from peninsular. It's amazing what I am learning from you all. I'll get some power to it today and see what happens. Thanks.
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  #93  
Old 09-28-2017, 12:16 PM
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JohnC JohnC is offline
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A 12v pump might get hot if connected to 24 volts, but not the other way around.
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  #94  
Old 09-28-2017, 01:43 PM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
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The pump goes CLICK when the power is connected.

Check your feed line and then with the key on connect it to the shut off solenoid spade on the IP

YOU SHOULD HEAR AN AUDIBLE CLICK
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  #95  
Old 09-28-2017, 05:06 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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That seemed to do it. I heard the click and started misting diesel out of the glow plug holes. I buttoned it all back up and tried to start it. It hasn't caught yet but I do have exhaust coming out of the tail pipe so diesel is in the combustion chambers. letting the batteries charge back up right now.
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  #96  
Old 09-28-2017, 08:32 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Turns out my glow plugs weren't kicking on, fixed that problem and it fired right up. Seems to be just as clackity sounding as the old 6.2 at idle...Maybe that's just how it is. I had hoped for a nice smooth purr, maybe getting the injection timing lined out and a little break in period will smooth it out some? We'll see. Turns out I have a leak in my oil cooler, I think when I was putting on the fittings for the lines I tweaked the whole thing a bit and broke something in the fins, it's leaking right above one of the fittings. Anyway, I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on this project. Finally.
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  #97  
Old 09-29-2017, 07:15 AM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
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Sweeeeeeeeeeet

Glad you got things coming together

As far as sound goes, these engines are for the most part IDENTICAL

Same internal geometry basically.

The 6.5 has a slightly larger bore is all.

The head layout is the same with only slight changes to the pre cups due to power levels and the addition of the turbo

Emission regs were a tad different as well.

The 6.5 with the electronic injection HAVE A LOT SHARPER RATTLE than with the mechanical pumps.

The basic "RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE is not going to change.

The design of a PRE CUP engine just makes them sound as they do.


Don't expect much change in the sound even after fooling with the timing.

The second terminal on the IP controls the "COLD ADVANCE SOLENOID" and when active will make the engine RATTLE A LOT HARDER.

The cold advance needs to be wired through the COLD ADVANCE SWITCH that is normally located on the RH side rear of the RH head.

This is a 2 prong thermal switch that closes when cold and opens at around 120 F

The wiring should come from a 12 volt ignition switched source to the Cold advance switch, then on to the cold advance solenoid and also feed the fast idle solenoid (Mounts on the IP and holds the throttle open slightly when active to give about 1000 RPM)

The fast idle solenoid activates when the key is turned on (cold start) and the throttle depressed while the glow plugs are heating up.

TURN ON KEY, PRESS AND RELEASE THE THROTTLE THEN START WHEN THE GLOW LAMP GOES OUT.

If you are using a manual switch on the glow plugs then just turn on key, press and release throttle, the glow for 10-20 seconds or a little longer when real cold, start engine.

Fast idle and the cold advance will shut off in a short while as soon as the engine warms a bit.

AS far as the timing goes, after the engine is warm and the cold advance is off the rattle should be much less and the tail pipe should be clear.

If you get any wispy BLUE/WHITE smoke then the timing is retarded and needs to be advanced.

WITH ENGINE OFF

Loosen the 3 bolts holding the IP to the timing cover and advance the pump a tiny bit (one width of the witness mark at a time)

When the engine is warmed up and the advance is manually activated (12 volts to advance connection) the rattle of the engine should increase noticeably and if not then the timing is retarded (or the advance is not working)


Clean tail pipe and modest rattle will get you close on timing

A Exhaust temp gauge will help a bunch.

Retarded timing will cause the EGT to run HOT and smokey.

Too much advance will cause a lot of hard rattle.

Timing is important, but you can get things plenty close enough with the BUTT DYNO.


Black smoke out the tail pipe is OK for a short time when mashing the throttle but should not ROLL COAL

Clean smoke free idle even just after a cold start and all cyls are firing and the engine is running smooth.


Good luck

Robyn
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  #98  
Old 09-29-2017, 12:59 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Thanks for all the information. Unfortunately I'm on hold again. I've had to order another oil cooler as I broke the other one making up the fittings to it. So, until that arrives I'm pretty much two blocked. More later...
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  #99  
Old 10-02-2017, 06:56 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Pleasant surprise today, my new oil cooler showed up this morning...I believe some laws of physics must have been broken for it to get here so fast. I'm not going to complain. So I got that re-installed today and fired up again, only to discover diesel leaking. I found a pinhole leak on one of the fittings for the fuel return lines. Easy fix, the hardest part was finding the fitting.
So now it's running and I've run out of time on this project. It goes to a mechanic tomorrow to finish up the wiring and then to the muffler shop to install the exhaust. I would have liked to see it through to the end but I've got to end this and get my truck back. Thanks for all your help on this, I enjoyed the project and learned a ton.
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