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6.5L Turbo Diesel 1992-00 6.5TD - Discussion forum for the 6.5L engine.

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  #51  
Old 07-11-2017, 07:12 AM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
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Looking great

Gotta love the Square body trucks.
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  #52  
Old 07-11-2017, 04:25 PM
JeepSJ JeepSJ is offline
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Make sure you secure those braided lines so they do not rub. One of my power steering pressure lines was rubbing on my inner fender and it actually rubbed through the braid and exposed the inner teflon liner which then burst and I lost power steering and power brakes at the same time.
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  #53  
Old 07-13-2017, 05:28 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Thanks for the warning!
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  #54  
Old 08-04-2017, 12:58 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Hello all,

Just got back home from work and heard that my IP will be shipping today. Which leads to the next question...What is the process for correctly installing this thing? Specifically the timing of the engine to the IP?
Thanks.
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  #55  
Old 08-05-2017, 06:47 AM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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Hey...Sounds good

To get the IP on the engine and timed.


Make sure the timing gears on the cam and crank are set correctly.

Align the dot on the IP gear with the cam gears dot.

Insert the IP into the timing cover and over the studs.

The drive flange on the IP has a bolt pattern that will only align one way with the gears bolt holes.

Some IP'S have a pilot stud that indexes the flange and the gear.

Be sure to use BLUE loctite on the bolts that hold the gear to the IP.

If a bolt drops out it gets UGLY.

Your fresh IP should have an indexing mark on the top of the flange that bolts to the timing cover.

Align the mark on the pump with the mark that should be on the cover.

If no marks present then set the pump as close to straight up as possible.

Getting the timing tweaked will be a bit of guess work after you light the beast off.

***** Don't forget the gasket between the IP and the timing cover *****

Use a little high temp silicone between the gasket and the cover ONLY so the pump can be moved later.

Use a bit of light grease or vaseline on the pump flange so it will move to adjust timing LITTLE BITTY SMEAR ONLY.
You just want to be sure the gasket stays stuck to the case and the pump will move easily when needed.

Don't tighten the retaining nuts real tight until the engine is running and the timing is set.

SNUG will do for now, but DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS FULLY LATER

Once the timing is where you want it place a chisel across the pump flange and cover and strike to make a clean sharp witness mark for future reference.

If the cover and the IP have marks USE THEM AS A REFERENCE TO START FROM.

For initial start up

With glow plugs OUT and fuel to the IP spin the engine with the starter until fuel blows out the glow plug holes big time.

Install plugs and go for a start.

This is a fast and easy way to get a fresh engine up and going without frying the starter, batteries and your patience.

Once running smooth, if there is white smoke it means you need to advance the IP some.


Good luck
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  #56  
Old 08-08-2017, 03:02 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Thank you,
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  #57  
Old 08-13-2017, 07:38 PM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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My IP and misc. parts arrived a few days ago so I'm back at it. And of course it has created some more questions.

The injectors a bit shorter than the ones out of the 6.2 I assume this is a 6.2 to 6.5 difference and I shouldn't be alarmed. This all came from Peninsular, and I get the impression they are pretty legit. In my box of goodies there was a little bag of 16 copper or brass rings that would appear to go on the base of the injectors. Is this so? why are there 16?

I got the IP mounted, it seemed a little to easy...that always worries me. I am attaching some pictures.

I got a new vacuum pump today, I went with the gear driven style from a 6.2. There is one stub to attach a hose coming off the diaphragm housing thing thing. It is labeled inlet...? I guess that is because that is where a vacuum is getting pulled into? It is huge compared to the little tiny vacuum hose coming out of the fire wall. And I, with my incredible foresight, got rid of all my 6.2 leftovers last week to make room in the garage...besides the visual reference angle, there was a $15 core charge for said vacuum pump. Oh well.

Anyway, thanks for all your help so far. I would have been having a real hard time without all your help.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170813_153551.jpg (70.9 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 20170813_153605.jpg (48.4 KB, 16 views)
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  #58  
Old 08-14-2017, 06:19 AM
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trbankii trbankii is offline
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Somewhere around 1988, the long body injectors were changed over to the short body injectors. The long and short body injectors will interchange. It is the vans (all years) and turbocharged trucks that need the short injector for clearance.
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  #59  
Old 08-14-2017, 06:23 AM
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Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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Pix look spot on.

The injectors are different between the early 6.2 and the 6.5 (Short/long thing)

Which injector lines do you have ???

The line sets are also different as well.

If your lines are for the long injectors (taller) they may not reach the shorter injectors.

There were some changes in the injectors when GM introduced the turbo in 1992.

They needed room for the exhaust manifold to clear the injectors on the RH side and shorter injectors were used along with the matching line set.

If you have to changes the lines you must keep them as matched sets (All 8)

Every line is exactly the same length ( This is why the goofy bends and coils in the lines)

The reason is ignition timing, and the length of the line changes(can change) the time it takes the pressure pulse to reach the injector.

So if you run into issues and need to swap lines, just be sure you get a complete set.

If scavenging off a used engine be sure to remove in the pairs they are in and label the sets (2-4....6-8....1-3... 5-7)

The lines were ORIGINALLY clamped in pairs.

There are a couple lines that can be mixed up, but most really only fit in one spot, or at least properly fit.


Using the rubber isolators and the sheet metal U clamps to retain the lines is a good idea as this stops the lines from vibrating and possibly cracking.

THE VACUUM HOSE.
Originally there was a rubber adapter that connected the tiny plastic line that feeds the HVAC system to the pump.

Depending on the particular truck and which tranny it has there can be a vacuum line that goes to A CONTROL VALVE on the IP to run the vacuum modulator on the Auto trans (TH-400)

You can fabricate what you need to get your lines connected using off the shelf rubber vacuum hose fittings.

A little imagineering will suffice

Not sure why you received 16 copper rings.
A ring goes between the injector and the head.

Using the proper socket for installing the injectors is preferred, but you can do it with a wrench on the bottom of the injector body.

Good luck
Keep us in the loop.

Robyn
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Last edited by Robyn; 08-14-2017 at 06:34 AM.
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  #60  
Old 08-14-2017, 09:14 AM
3and3oneton 3and3oneton is offline
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Sounds like things are right for now. The injection lines, injectors, IP gear, IP and hold down clips all came together from Peninsular.
I'll be out with the family for the next week.
Thanks again.
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