Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Fuel Re-Prime Procedure

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Springfield, TN
    Posts
    29

    Question

    I can already tell the gauge isn't exact on reading the auxillary tank. In the event I run my '03 4x4 Dmax out of diesel, what is the procedure for repriming? It didn't come with a manual, but I can't find the bulb mentioned in other post and don't know where the bleed screw is.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,574

    Arrow

    The filter housing is on the right (passenger) side of the engine bay, between the battery and engine. The priming pump is the 1.5" dia. "canister" looking thing on the top, and the bleeder is the black plastic screw inboard of that. The pump is operated by pushing it down and releasing it (spring loaded up).

    Best bleeding procedure is to pump it up (slow, full strokes, not stabs) to significant resistance, then loosen the screw until the pressure is relieved, or fuel escapes. Repeat until you get fuel, then tighten the bleeder and pump up again a few times to prime the fuel pump. Be careful with the bleeder, it's plastic. Use a nut driver for best results, or at least a screwdriver large enough to prevent damage to the slot. Do not overtighten, the dealer will have to sell you an entire ass'y ($500
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    LanduytG Guest

    Post

    [quote] Do not overtighten, the dealer will have to sell you an entire ass'y ($500

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Springfield, TN
    Posts
    29

    Question

    In doing some searches, there's mention of cycling the pump/key on roughly a half dozen times with the bleeder open (I think). Does that come in to play at all here or will the little 1.5" pump gizmo do the trick?

    Curious because I think I ran it out this morning coming down a hill at 70mph. No pedal response so real quick I switched over to the main tank and it came back on. It seems to be doing okay now, but knowing me (or my wife who's not familliar with the auxillary tank or its capacity) I'll run it out some time not paying attention.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,574

    Arrow

    Originally posted by tnlegendracer:
    In doing some searches, there's mention of cycling the pump/key on roughly a half dozen times with the bleeder open (I think). Does that come in to play at all here or will the little 1.5" pump gizmo do the trick?
    Cycling the key will do nothing to prime fuel. The Duramax (in stock form) has no electric fuel pump. You will have to prime it using the pump on the filter head. The procedure works on vehicles that have an electric fuel pump with a "start up" timed cycle, where the pump engages for a few seconds when the key is turned to run.

    Your experience running downhill at high speed sounds reasonable. The engine stayed "in gear" on compression, allowing it to keep the engine spinning fast enough to "reprime" the fuel pump.

    You could eliminate all of the above by installing an electric fuel pump. Kennedy should have a kit available soon, with all the electronics to make it "Duramax friendly".
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Alvin, TX, USA
    Posts
    192

    Post

    I embarassed to admit it, but I did run out of fuel once on my '03 Duramax. I can attest that all you have to do,after adding fuel in the tank, is to bleed the air at the fuel filter vent like when changing the filter. It started right up. Got to looking at the bleed mechanism, and I could see why. It's above the injectors or at the high point in the fuel line, on the LB 7 anyway. So you don't end up bleeding injectors to get it restarted.
    Yet another reason to have a Duramax.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •