I purchased a stud girdle kit from Avant diesel and they did not send me instructions. What do I torque the studs and nuts to?
Thanks,
Kyle
I purchased a stud girdle kit from Avant diesel and they did not send me instructions. What do I torque the studs and nuts to?
Thanks,
Kyle
'83 Blazer, DB2 built like 4911 by Accurate Diesel, 6.5 oil pump, 6.5 turbo injectors, 82 6.2 block, 6.5 heads, serpentine, gm-4 turbo with turbo master, timing gears, custom stud girdle, lower compression
Pics: http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s205/kkarlson_photo/
Hi
I installed one a few years ago,i'll see if i still have mt instructions.Did yours come with ARP studs+nuts?
Mine came powdercoated in black,i did'nt like the idea of their being any powdercoat on the surfaces that the nuts got tourqued on so i striped the finish off the girdles.They will be in oil all the time so unfinished was fine by me.
i think you follow GM's torque sprc's but not 100% sure
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
On the topic of stud-girdles, does anyone know how much of a difference they would make on a later-model ('91) 660-casting block? Are these a "must have" item, or are there certain applications which would warrant their use? And then, what would the difference be, between the girdles and a splayed main kit in terms of an operating-application that would require them? (Sorry for sidetracking the topic at hand.)
Yukon:
Yes mine came with the arp studs and nuts. If you could look up the torques I would appreciate it. I didn't think of stripping the powder coat off I might do that.
WeaselWerks:
People pretty much do not really know if it helps. Some say it works, and some say it does nothing. What is sure is that it doen't hurt anything, so you might as well use it. You are more at risk to crack your block if you tow heavy loads alot. Splayed mains are very expensive, but are a sure thing. So if you tow and make 300+ horse power, splayed mains would give great peace of mind. But if it is a milder build, then you should be fine with a stud gridle kit or nothing at all. If you serach for "stud girdle" you will find many threads debating whether or not it works.
'83 Blazer, DB2 built like 4911 by Accurate Diesel, 6.5 oil pump, 6.5 turbo injectors, 82 6.2 block, 6.5 heads, serpentine, gm-4 turbo with turbo master, timing gears, custom stud girdle, lower compression
Pics: http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s205/kkarlson_photo/
Bkzr6.2'83, thanks for the info. I'm in the middle of a 6.2 rebuild myself, and have been tossing up whether or not I should invest in one of those kits. The splayed caps are too pricey for my budget, but I've been giving serious consideration to the girdles for some piece of mind if I decide to start kicking up the power later on.
that thing they sell is exactly that.............something to sell. What, is it 1/4" thick or less, what a joke. We had our own built from 1/2" 4130 sheet, ground true and put studs in every main bolt. we tied every main web bolt together, along with going across each main web. Only area we had to skip was around the oil pump.
Grape: Where did you get the studs and how did you torque them?
'83 Blazer, DB2 built like 4911 by Accurate Diesel, 6.5 oil pump, 6.5 turbo injectors, 82 6.2 block, 6.5 heads, serpentine, gm-4 turbo with turbo master, timing gears, custom stud girdle, lower compression
Pics: http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s205/kkarlson_photo/
Kyle,
Sorry for the delay on getting you these specifications. I've been working really really late these nights trying to make the bills.
Anyways, I dug my destructions out of the pile at the shop and got them sitting with me here.
For 12mm studs (all 6.2's) use 80 ft. lbs with Moly Lubricant (usually comes with the kit).
Same size studs with oil, use 120 ft. lbs. torque.
I prefer to use the Moly lube, especially considering the torque amount on the fastener and on the outside main holes.
You can get the ARP Moly Lube from Summit Racing, it's not that expensive, and you can get the small packet (what comes with em to do the job) or a larger bottle if you intend to do others (me).
Laterz!
J
1982 C10 SCSWB 6.5TD, mods too extensive to list. (13.69 1/4 mile @94.6 MPH) RACE TRUCK
1982 C10 SCSWB 6.2NA, 2.73 700
1986 C10 SCLWB 6.2TD 3.73 700
1989 V20 SUB 6.2NA, 3.73 400
1994 G20 VAN 6.5NA, 3.42 60E
1994 K20LD ECSWB 6.5TD, 3.42 80E
1995 K20 SUB 6.5TD, Wrecked, ran into by stupid teen.
1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 12' Flatbed 5.13 80E
1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 18' Rollback Wrecker 4.63 80E
1994 C20HD ECLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E Wifes Truck.
1995 C20LD ECSWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
1995 K20LD SCLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
1996 K30 DRW 6.5TD 4.10 80E
1997 C10 Tahoe 2Door 2WD 5.7L to 6.5 Conversion Underway
Originally Posted by Blzr6.2'83
arp made the studs for me, stock torque
OK, thanks for the responses.
I think I might just make replacements for the stud girdle kit, by machining it out of solid stainless, instead of using the cut anlge iron that comes with it. It should be stronger than just that angle iron.
'83 Blazer, DB2 built like 4911 by Accurate Diesel, 6.5 oil pump, 6.5 turbo injectors, 82 6.2 block, 6.5 heads, serpentine, gm-4 turbo with turbo master, timing gears, custom stud girdle, lower compression
Pics: http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s205/kkarlson_photo/
Hi all. I am replacing my Harmonic Damper this weekend becuase of my paranoia of cracking mains/crank and subsequent engine catastrophe and this really piqued my interest. I understand Grape's point about light materials and the need to make the cap girdle as rigid as possible, but am uncertain where I could find specifications on the hole to hole distances to make my own. If there is interest, and I can find the info needed, I can model a set of HD cap girdles in Inventor and have a few of the local machine shops quote them. Perhaps the 1/4" material is "just enough" to constrain the forces against the caps? I was looking at the DSG kit and going to do it the same time I do the harmonic ballancer. Am I on the right track? Thanks!
already ahead of you, mine is cut from 1/2" 4130 plate, then ground flat. I already have the drawings in autocad from a junk block, we tied every main together except for 1 bolt on the rear cap around the oil pump.
stock oil pan doesn't fit if you tie the front main to anything.......
if anybody want's one let me know, but it isn't a bolt in deal due to the oil pan issue.
Wow Grape, Very cool! I would like to either purchase a set from you (if I can afford it! - close to x-mas with little boys to buy for) or get the drawings/specs so I can make a set here. That is awesome. I hope to do this when I do the H/B in the next week or two. Want me to contact you off list via e-mail?
Hey Grape, I sent you an e-mail via the address cited on your web page. Would like to install the girdle over the holidays while i have off of work, but need to either order the DSG one or one from you, or make my own. Any idea on what you need for a set? Seems like it is $$ well spent seeing how I hope to keep this beast for a long time. Thanks!
I wouldn't hold by breath waiting for Grape to get you a girdle... Stick with the DSG, if nothing else it will be some peace of mind.
white '93 K2500 started it all..
red '94 K3500 old faithful
black '93 K3500 daily driver
'83 G20 conversion van
'74 C65 truck diesel conversion...
new guy here: DSG?
thanks,
Cole
Cheers from over here,
Cole
Yank banished to the UK
DSG: Diesel Service Group. They are located in Canada and sell a variety of cool diesel stuff like gear drive pump stuff, girdle kit and the like. I have not purchased from them yet, but plan to over the holidays. Check em out:
//www.dieselservices.com/html
my deal isn't a bolt in deal,oil pan reason #1, block has to be align honed with the girdle on it..........reason #2
Originally Posted by grape
Kind of like slayed mains![]()
1982 C10 SCSWB 6.5TD, mods too extensive to list. (13.69 1/4 mile @94.6 MPH) RACE TRUCK
1982 C10 SCSWB 6.2NA, 2.73 700
1986 C10 SCLWB 6.2TD 3.73 700
1989 V20 SUB 6.2NA, 3.73 400
1994 G20 VAN 6.5NA, 3.42 60E
1994 K20LD ECSWB 6.5TD, 3.42 80E
1995 K20 SUB 6.5TD, Wrecked, ran into by stupid teen.
1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 12' Flatbed 5.13 80E
1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 18' Rollback Wrecker 4.63 80E
1994 C20HD ECLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E Wifes Truck.
1995 C20LD ECSWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
1995 K20LD SCLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
1996 K30 DRW 6.5TD 4.10 80E
1997 C10 Tahoe 2Door 2WD 5.7L to 6.5 Conversion Underway
Originally Posted by john8662
except without poking more holes in an already notoriously strong block.........