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6.5L Turbo Diesel 1992-00 6.5TD - Discussion forum for the 6.5L engine.

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  #1  
Old 03-05-2009, 07:58 PM
SmithvilleD's Avatar
SmithvilleD SmithvilleD is offline
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Default Bleeding the injector lines - fresh engine

I'll be firing up my first 6.5 build this weekend. I tightened the 3 injector lines under the turbo side heat shield since they're tougher to get to. Left the remaining 5 loose.

Any thoughts on if it's a bad idea to crank it until there's fuel at the these 5 injectors, then tighten, start it, & see if it will purge the air in the 3 lines not bled?

I suspect it will start this way but don't have any practical experience on purging air from the 6.5/DS-4 injection system. If this is a bad idea, I'll go to the work of getting at those injectors under the heat shield & bleed all 8.

Would appreciate any thoughts from experienced folks on which way they'd recommend.
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1995 K2500, 8600 GVWR, 6.5TD, NV4500, 3.73:1, 18:1, balanced, Fluidampr, DSG timing gears, '97 cooling upgrades, 2100 psi-pop injectors, 4" exhaust, ceramic coated exh manifolds/turbine housing/SS crossover pipe, Autometer: pyrometer, boost, oil temp, oil press, fuel press, & water temp gauges, remote oil filter, B&M plate-style oil cooler w/ braided SS oil lines
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  #2  
Old 03-05-2009, 08:54 PM
simon simon is offline
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You got her down pat, bleed as you planned and it'll fire up no prob.
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98 GMC sierra 2500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 252000 km. needs new engine, next project
95 GMC sierra LE 2500 ext cab sh box 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 328.000 km. my wife's truck .remote pmd on cooler
89 GMC sierra SLE 1500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.2 720000 km engine swap at 665000 km because of broken oil cooler line. 6 bolt wheels.
Waldon wheelloader repowered with a 6.2 na
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2009, 07:36 AM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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Tighten all the lines down tight. Remove the glow plugs and it will spin like the wind.

Spin the beast until you have fuel fogging out the glow plug holes, this will also prime the oil system with little pressure on the bearings.

Reinstall the glow plugs and then light the fire in the usual way.

Turning a fresh build over long enough to prime the thing when its fighting compression takes a toll on everything including the starter and the batteries.

With the plugs out its a snap.

The injectors and lines will purge quick and you will be set.

Once fired it will take a few minutes to fully clear all remaining air and get all the ponies clucking along in step.


Have fun

Robyn
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2009, 08:44 AM
simon simon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
Tighten all the lines down tight. Remove the glow plugs and it will spin like the wind.

Spin the beast until you have fuel fogging out the glow plug holes, this will also prime the oil system with little pressure on the bearings.

Reinstall the glow plugs and then light the fire in the usual way.

Turning a fresh build over long enough to prime the thing when its fighting compression takes a toll on everything including the starter and the batteries.

With the plugs out its a snap.

The injectors and lines will purge quick and you will be set.

Once fired it will take a few minutes to fully clear all remaining air and get all the ponies clucking along in step.


Have fun

Robyn
different strokes for different folkes,I had assumed he would have primed the oilpump/system on the hex shaft [ easy'er on the starter]
__________________
98 GMC sierra 2500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 252000 km. needs new engine, next project
95 GMC sierra LE 2500 ext cab sh box 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 328.000 km. my wife's truck .remote pmd on cooler
89 GMC sierra SLE 1500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.2 720000 km engine swap at 665000 km because of broken oil cooler line. 6 bolt wheels.
Waldon wheelloader repowered with a 6.2 na
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2009, 08:47 AM
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SmithvilleD SmithvilleD is offline
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I thoroughly primed it w/ an improvised oil pump drive made from an auto trans/speed sensor w/ the window wheel electronics removed so you could chuck a drill on the exposed shaft. Worked well but a bit messy as there's a small oil passage to lube the top (now exposed) of the shaft - Robyn's primer made from a 6.2 vac pump would be ideal.

GP's only finger tight to keep out debris so I'll remove, crank, button up upon fuel fogging from all 8.

Thanks much for the advise from each of you. And Thanks to Jim's 6.5 manuals & all that consolidated info & well evolved knowledge.

Scope of my project started from a basic rebuild & kept expanding each time I read about a good idea that really should be done while everything's apart. Gonna be nice to see all this come together and make some noise.
__________________
1995 K2500, 8600 GVWR, 6.5TD, NV4500, 3.73:1, 18:1, balanced, Fluidampr, DSG timing gears, '97 cooling upgrades, 2100 psi-pop injectors, 4" exhaust, ceramic coated exh manifolds/turbine housing/SS crossover pipe, Autometer: pyrometer, boost, oil temp, oil press, fuel press, & water temp gauges, remote oil filter, B&M plate-style oil cooler w/ braided SS oil lines
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2009, 02:57 PM
simon simon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmithvilleD View Post
I thoroughly primed it w/ an improvised oil pump drive made from an auto trans/speed sensor w/ the window wheel electronics removed so you could chuck a drill on the exposed shaft. Worked well but a bit messy as there's a small oil passage to lube the top (now exposed) of the shaft - Robyn's primer made from a 6.2 vac pump would be ideal.

GP's only finger tight to keep out debris so I'll remove, crank, button up upon fuel fogging from all 8.

Thanks much for the advise from each of you. And Thanks to Jim's 6.5 manuals & all that consolidated info & well evolved knowledge.

Scope of my project started from a basic rebuild & kept expanding each time I read about a good idea that really should be done while everything's apart. Gonna be nice to see all this come together and make some noise.
For driving the oilpump shaft i just use a extension and socket in the drill. for blocking the oil passage in the block's bore i insert a brass kitchen sink drain tube[perfect fit] with an 0 ring under the flange,and bolt the hold down bracket of the pump drive back on. makes for a no leak full pressure up prime.
__________________
98 GMC sierra 2500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 252000 km. needs new engine, next project
95 GMC sierra LE 2500 ext cab sh box 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 328.000 km. my wife's truck .remote pmd on cooler
89 GMC sierra SLE 1500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.2 720000 km engine swap at 665000 km because of broken oil cooler line. 6 bolt wheels.
Waldon wheelloader repowered with a 6.2 na
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2009, 03:05 PM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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Always prime before installing but, the engine will drain out a lot and the cooler will be dry usually at this point.

During a dry (NO Fuel) startup the amount of cranking can really take its toll on the starter and batteries.

With the plugs removed the engine spins at twice or more RPM and does so easily.

The entire spin up and bleed out should take only a few minutes.

(other than replacing the plugs)

Just an easy way to do it.

Robyn
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(1) 89 K5 Blazer Silverado
(1) 95 GMC Cowgirl Cadillac hauler Too much to list here but loaded to the moon with goodies
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  #8  
Old 03-06-2009, 06:19 PM
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SmithvilleD SmithvilleD is offline
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I'll have a new/dry big oil cooler, remote oil filter, & lines all dry. So it probably works out well to spin it w/ GP's out both the purge air from the injector lines as well as purge the oil lines/cooler, etc.

Then can top up the oil, install the GP's, & fire it up.
__________________
1995 K2500, 8600 GVWR, 6.5TD, NV4500, 3.73:1, 18:1, balanced, Fluidampr, DSG timing gears, '97 cooling upgrades, 2100 psi-pop injectors, 4" exhaust, ceramic coated exh manifolds/turbine housing/SS crossover pipe, Autometer: pyrometer, boost, oil temp, oil press, fuel press, & water temp gauges, remote oil filter, B&M plate-style oil cooler w/ braided SS oil lines
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2009, 07:20 PM
simon simon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
Always prime before installing but, the engine will drain out a lot and the cooler will be dry usually at this point.

During a dry (NO Fuel) startup the amount of cranking can really take its toll on the starter and batteries.

With the plugs removed the engine spins at twice or more RPM and does so easily.

The entire spin up and bleed out should take only a few minutes.

(other than replacing the plugs)

Just an easy way to do it.

Robyn
Robyn, i always respect your input as you seem to have a great deal of knowledge on these mills, I did learn a thing or 2 from you ,and you are pretty witty too explaning things. but there are more than one way to skin this cat.

Here is my way, I drop in the engine minus the fuel filter,finnish the installation,leave the dr side inj lines finger tight. fill up with oil,turn the oil pump[per my last post] till entire system is purged and pressuredup,bolt the pumpdrive on ,install fuel filter,prime fuel up to the IP inlet. loosen dr side inj nuts, crank engine till fuel at inj,[ takes only 1/2 min]button them up.crank to start takes only a couple of sec before it fires up.oil pressure is there before it fires.

You be the judge.
Simon
__________________
98 GMC sierra 2500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 252000 km. needs new engine, next project
95 GMC sierra LE 2500 ext cab sh box 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 328.000 km. my wife's truck .remote pmd on cooler
89 GMC sierra SLE 1500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.2 720000 km engine swap at 665000 km because of broken oil cooler line. 6 bolt wheels.
Waldon wheelloader repowered with a 6.2 na
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