Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: nv4500 removal....help!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Default nv4500 removal....help!!!

    I am in the middle of changing the clutch and have the TC out, and the transmission (nv4500) unbolted. However, it won't slide out because the shift lever housing sticks up through the floor and hits of the hole in the floor when I slide the transmission back????? Should I have left it connected to the bell housing? How do I get this thing out of there?

    thank you
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    AB Canada
    Posts
    218

    Default

    Maybe loosen the down pipe and/or take the 2 motor mount bolts out to give you more tilt.
    With the bell housing attached the tranny dont have to slide back that far before the shaft clears the clutch.
    I never done a Gm yet,just a bunch of dodges.On them there was just enough clearance if I jacked the front of engine up.

    Let me know what works, I got one to do end of april.
    98 GMC sierra 2500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 252000 km. needs new engine, next project
    95 GMC sierra LE 2500 ext cab sh box 4x4 auto tr 6.5 td 328.000 km. my wife's truck .remote pmd on cooler
    89 GMC sierra SLE 1500 ext cab 4x4 auto tr 6.2 720000 km engine swap at 665000 km because of broken oil cooler line. 6 bolt wheels.
    Waldon wheelloader repowered with a 6.2 na

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, BC
    Posts
    1,070

    Default

    I can help you on this one if I understood you correct. I have removed my tranny five or six times now, and ran into a huge issue the first time with the shifter ball hitting the pan. Use two flathead screwdrivers to push down on the ball and turn it. It should pop out.

    Place a piece of wood under the engine and jack it up slowly until it is almost touch the firewall. You should be able to slide it back easily then. Leaving the bellhousing on would be a mistake. Trust me on that.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6.5 Detroit Diesel View Post
    ...Use two flathead screwdrivers to push down on the ball and turn it. It should pop out.

    Yup! That's the trick.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Default

    thanks a bunch....I'll keep you posted.
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,147

    Default

    IIRC, turn it CCW to get it out. Basically, push down and twist the "cap".
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, BC
    Posts
    1,070

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    IIRC, turn it CCW to get it out. Basically, push down and twist the "cap".
    LOL, forget to mention that. Good luck. Well you are in there. Check your pilot bearing, your throwout fork, and the ball stud. For the amount they cost, if they are worn or cracked, it is well worth it to replace them.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,752

    Default

    I've always just removed the entire shifter. Top cover and all. Unscrew the shift handle then remove the top cover. Then place a couple shop rags in the top to keep dirt out.

    Tried one of them fancy transmission jacks once. Went back to a floor jack. Much easier to line up going back together. And don't forget to take the clutch line loose from the master cylinder BEFORE moving things around.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Default

    All the tricks worked! thankyou!

    But......the pilot bearing is siezed up and needles are all over inside the hole. Tried a pilot bearing puller but with the width of the dual mass, I can't get behind the bearing and it is really in there. Remove the FW? How to hold the FW still to remove the bolts and keep the wrench from turning the crank?

    When I tipped the trasmission down in the back, a big gear and some rings slipped right out...shouldn't they have been held in with snap rings? also, pilot bearing seize created some wear on the transmission shaft. How big of a deal is this. Do I need to get a kit for the transmission?????
    Last edited by 94bluehd; 04-05-2009 at 16:14.
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Default More help

    anyone....I am desperate here.
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,752

    Thumbs up

    Get ahold of Drivetrain.com and talk to John. Or was it Jack. Older guy in the parts dept. He know the boxes and they have an upgrade for 5th gear retainer. Thats what fell out the back. They ship out of Vegas.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    939

    Default

    Try to sand down the input shaft snout and see what it looks like. My bearing needles gaulled onto the shaft building it up but the shaft was actually ok. Clean it up with sandpaper and see what you get. The input shaft is pretty hard and the bearing needles gualled material will sand down pretty easy. If still bad you can get a whole new input shaft or have it speedie sleeved by a an appropriate machine shop. Try quad4x4 dot com, standard transmission dot com, or nv4500 dot com. You'll have to find a decent slide hammer tool puller and yank the bearing race of the pilot bearing out of the flywheel. Just set the grip tool as best you can take your time and wiggle it around and find the best bite.

    I have taken the shifter out of the older 3 speeds with granny low SMJ ??? trans but I took the whole shift tower off the NV4500 - gives you a little more room. Then filled it by pouring in the open top when putting back together. Also, remember to hook up the reverse wire switch on reassemble its near impossible to get back to it when done.

    What gears are you talking about coming out or off??? Was everything working before? 5th gear has some kind of lock nut that sometimes comes undone. Look over at quad4x4 dot com for some info on that they have a king nut king torque nut or something like that.
    97 5spd K2500 Ext Cab short Bed ~160K miles.
    TM, 3" downpipe & 4" exhaust, remote FSD, remote oilfilter, Gauges: EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, B&W Gooseneck Turnover ball, Prodigy Brake Controller. Hi-Temp Hydraulic Oil Cooler Lines.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,752

    Thumbs up

    Call / Google drivetrain.com out of Vegas. Talk to Jack or maybe it was John. He's the older guy in the parts dept.. He knows these boxes and he is honest. The parts that fell out the back is 5th gear. They have an upgrade for that and it works. I have it in mine. They ship when promised and parts arrive when they are supposed to.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Wow, thanks everyone. I dealt with Drivetrain when I rebuilt my TC (input went Kaput). Very good to deal with.

    Now,,,,I had to resort to the hammer and chisel and go real slow but I got the pilot out of the end of the crank. It has been bad for a while.

    attached pics, first three are of the 5th gear stuff (?) that fell out, I will call Drivetrain tomorrow. What causes this to happen? That bushing is curled over on one end and the gear appears to have a little wear on the end too. FORGOT TO ADD, THERE WAS NOT UNUSUAL NOISE(S) COMING FROM THE TRANSMISSION AND IT SHIFTED GREAT?!?!!?

    4th pic is of the pilot shaft on the transmission, does it look OK?

    5th is the FW, No deep blueing or any cracks or anything, I can still see some original tooling marks in the face. Should I take the Dual Mass apart and clean everything, is there a rebuild kit?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    939

    Default

    The input shaft looks ok to run again. Mine at first looked worse. From the picture that groove looks like the seal wore it down and not much bearing needle induced damage. Typical I would say. Polish it with a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and use a Kevlar or bronze bushing. It probably won't last as long as a new shiny smooth one with 100% good bearing surface but not sure of the life difference is worth it.

    I don't know about the dual mass flywheel. Have read you have to have a dual mass mfg rebuild them. They dissassemble, grind faceplate separate, and put in new springs etc. I'll defer that to someone else. My opinion only: if money wasn't too tight I'd get the SMF kit and replace.

    Basically vibration of the diesel compression/power pulse and torque surge through the drivetrain loosens the nut over time. Dodge had a worse problem than GM.
    97 5spd K2500 Ext Cab short Bed ~160K miles.
    TM, 3" downpipe & 4" exhaust, remote FSD, remote oilfilter, Gauges: EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, B&W Gooseneck Turnover ball, Prodigy Brake Controller. Hi-Temp Hydraulic Oil Cooler Lines.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,696

    Default

    Might be a little late, but 6.5DD went through clutch replacements last summer and detailed our escapades here.

    For the pilot bearing, I had the same thing - in pieces with needles everywhere. Here was a discussion on that bugger.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Kelowna, BC
    Posts
    1,070

    Default

    Your input shaft doesn't look that bad. Give it a good cleaning with some sandpaper as was recommended and don't worry about it.
    That O/D, do you do a lot of heavy towing with it? Something was loose and causing some wear.
    I have gone with SM setups the last two times. DM just seemed like there was to many little things that could go wrong. I have used the SM while towing heavy loads and so far it has performed well.
    As for the flywheel, I would inspect it very closely before you put it back in. It has had some wear from the picture.
    Good luck and hope it all comes back together.
    1993 HD2500- 4X4, Nv4500, rc/lb, Lots of mods, killed her. Awaiting her TT rebuild!

    2002 Camaro L36/M49- Killed In Action

    1995 HD2500 - 4X4, NV4500 rc/lb, GL4, Turbo, exhaust

    1994 HD2500- 4X4, NV4500, ec/lb

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Default

    This is the first time I've pulled a FW so I have nothing to base it on. However, all those marks look like some kind of dark stains. There is no grooves in it and it is perfectly smooth. What do I need to look for in the back...all the springs and stuff are intact?

    I just called the Chev Dealer here and explained the condition of my FW. they suggested it might be alright just to clean the face with a light emery cloth.

    Also, I called Drivetrain.com and Bart gave me the number to Scott at Midwest Transmission Center. He was very helpful and told me to inspect the 5th gear, if it fits without ANY play, I can re-use it and perhaps just get new retainer/spacers if the mainshaft checks out OK>
    Last edited by 94bluehd; 04-06-2009 at 14:59.
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    Angry

    Bad news on the 5th gear, lots of play on the shaft. both the gear and the shaft have wear. I might as well get a whole kit for the transmission and rebuild it while it is out, maybe get another 140K? With that, I don't have a choice but to reuse the FW this is getting expensive.
    1994 6.5 HO vin "F" X-cab, long box 4x4
    Phazer set installed, 97+ cooling mods with 9-blade fan.Turbomaster, gauges, OPS mods with selenoid and lift pump indicator light 4" turbo back open exhaust, remote dual oil by-pass, Amsoil 15w-40, remote PMD #9, battery mods, 98+ airbox, 3.42s w/ NV 4500 converted to South Bend SM system with damper installed, 147K.


  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Crowsnest,Alberta
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I know I'm a little late on this post but I thought I would throw in my story. Had trouble with the pilot brg on my 90 6.2 a few years back. Siezed up as yours did, chewed up the input shaft pretty bad. They wanted $450.00 for a new one so I took the old one out and welded the end up, turned it back down. I thought what the hay. Put in a new brg. (mistake) lasted about 20k. (first one went 100k). So I jerked the tranny again same story input chewed up. This time I was pissed so I welded it up while it was still in the trans, then I ground it down and filed it to fit.Went to napa and got a bronze bushing for the older applications. That was 220k ago and still going strong.
    1990 k2500 6.2/4spd /m 330000km
    1997 3500 HD 6.5 turbo/at deck and hoist
    2002 K2500 hd duramax/allison bully/trippledog
    2009 HHR/at victory red wife's new toy there is a cost to everything

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •