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Thread: Which engine oil and break-in (lots of questions)

  1. #1
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    Jan 2006
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    Smile Which engine oil and break-in (lots of questions)

    I am curious as to which oil I should be using for my new engine. I will be running an Amsoil bypass filter and stock oil cooler (for now).

    I heard for break-in I should use dino oil and not a synthetic. Is this true?

    What weight?

    Brand?

    How often should I change the oil during break-in?

    How many miles before switching to synthetic?

    After break-in, should I run Amsoil or Rotella?

    Which weight?

    Are synthetics worth it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    192

    Angry

    You could do a search and find lots of older posts on this subject.

    In a nutshell, what I have read here is to use dino oil (turbo rated of course, if your truck has one) for probably 5K miles or more until the engine is well broken in. Also, change the oil right away at 500 miles and again at the recommended interval (probably 2500 miles later). I personnally don't know anything about those special engine break in oils.

    The synthetic question is always there, but I have not read of anyone that recommends using it during the break in period. After the engine is broken in, some people seem willing to spend the money on it but most are not.

    In the 6.2 and 6.5, I have not read of anyone who says that using synthetic will allow you to extend your oil change interval, probably because the engine does not hold enough oil and the soot problem is compounded with low oil volume in the engine. You could do an oil analysis when its time to change the oil and maybe that would shed some light on the subject. Maybe you could extend the change interval based on the oil analysis. But, oil analyses and sythetic oils sure add to the cost/per mile.

    Do a search on the various terms - lots of posts should come up.
    Black 95 6.5TD, 929 block, 173k miles, 65k on IP, 48k miles on self-rebuilt engine done in '09, 6 L&S Full-torque inserts in outer main crank holes, Clearwater heads, Fluidamper, rebuilt NV4500, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, no cat, dual T-stats, 9 blade fan, spin-on 180 degree clutch, Heath hi-flow water pump and turbomaster, PMD relocated, OPS relay mod, Heath PROM upgrade, and Kennedy headlight harness upgrade soon. Now use semi-syn Lucas 2-cycle oil every fill-up which greatly reduces the frequency of DTC 35-36 codes the PCM/ECM throws.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Default

    Save your hard earned $$$$

    Delo 400 15-40
    Shell Rotella T 15-40

    Change the stuff about 3500 miles or so with filter and the little beast will live live long and prosper.


    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
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    SE Wisconsin
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey von View Post
    I am curious as to which oil I should be using for my new engine. I will be running an Amsoil bypass filter and stock oil cooler (for now).

    I heard for break-in I should use dino oil and not a synthetic. Is this true?

    What weight?

    Brand?

    How often should I change the oil during break-in?

    How many miles before switching to synthetic?

    After break-in, should I run Amsoil or Rotella?

    Which weight?

    Are synthetics worth it?
    Use dino for break in. Use what the manufacturer recommends, probably 15W-40.

    With my new engine I ran the break in oil for 500 miles, then switched to Amsoil 15W-40.

    I think the synthetics are worth it, especially if you are using a by-pass filter system. I have gone 40,000 miles without changing the oil on my 1993 6.5TD...but I also sent in samples to make sure the oil was good, and changed the filter on a regular basis and did the by pass filter at 25,000 miles.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  5. #5
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    Default

    With my new engine, I used (and use) Rotella T 15W/40 and changed at 400, 1100, and 2200 miles...oil's cheaper than metal. Most important on a breakin is not to let the engine idle at less than 1500 RPM for the first 50-100 miles, and then not to maintain one RPM for more than a few minutes.
    '94 Barth 28' Breakaway M/H ("StaRV II") diesel pusher: Spartan chassis, aluminum birdcage construction. Peninsular/AMG 6.5L TD (230HP), 18:1, Phazer, non-wastgated turbo, hi-pop injectors, 4L80E (Sun Coast TC & rebuild, M-H Pan), Dana 80 (M-H Cover), Fluidampr, EGT, trans temp, boost gage. Honda EV-4010 gaso genset, furnace, roof air, stove, microwave/convection, 2-dr. 3-way reefer. KVH R5SL Satellite. Cruises 2, sleeps 4, carries 6, and parties 8 (parties 12 - tested).

    Stand-ins are an '02 Cadillac Escalade AWD 6.0L and an '06 Toyota Sienna Limited.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Big reason for keeping the RPM moving is to make sure that oil gets sprayed all over inside the engine to lube critical parts.

    Pistons and rings need plenty for that first few minutes to make sure things are in good order.

    Slow idle does not allow a lot of oil to be thrown off the crank up to the cam and such places to lube it well during the critical first minutes.

    The roller lifters are pretty much Bomb proof and dont require a lot of lube though.

    The synthetic oils are fine but I am still Old school and use the regular diesel rated oils.

    Also I try to use stuff that I can get at any truck stop along the super slab at any time of day or night.

    Delo and Rotella are everywhere. in 15-40

    Trying to find a particular synthetic at a truck stop at all hours can be tough if not impossible.

    Some synths are available at the truck stops but Amzoil is not a likey score.

    I would change the oil at about 500 miles or so with filter and refill with Rotella T and call it a day

    Warm the engine good and then pop the plug and let it drain completely.

    The issue with the ??? between synth and Dyno oil is simple. If you change your oil regularly 3000 or so with the filter the engine will live a long time.

    Use of special oils and trick filters won't hurt anything and may even have some benefits, but the extra cost and lower availabilty when traveling causes me to stay with the big brands.

    Now if your out and all you can find is a Union 76 truck stop with their brand of diesel rated 15-40 then it's fine to dump it in.

    I use the card locks just as I do with the big rig. Whatever brand of diesel rated oil that they have in the vending machine (gallons usually) is what goes in the truck

    Mixing dyno and synth is not a great idea.

    Best

    Robyn
    Last edited by Robyn; 09-02-2009 at 07:25. Reason: spelling
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  7. #7
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    Burney, CA
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    Default

    Now this may be a stupid question, but better to know than not.

    Do I run the bypass during break-in? I would think so, but see above.

  8. #8
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey von View Post
    Now this may be a stupid question, but better to know than not.

    Do I run the bypass during break-in? I would think so, but see above.
    I wouldn't. You are going to dump your break-in oil early, and possibly more than once, so there'll be no gain with the bypass. And, it'll foul your expensive bypass filter(s) earlier. Your OEM full flow filter will do fine to capture all the build stuff. Just change it as often as the break-in oil, or sooner (no more than about 500 miles the first time).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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