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Thread: Allison cooling line solutions

  1. #1
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    Default Allison cooling line solutions

    I'd like to hear from anyone who has actually solved the Allison cooling line problem in a manner that doesn't involve a new set of factory lines. I am aware of all the proposed solutions, but I'm wondering if anyone has actually done it?

    TIA...
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  2. #2
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    Default

    I've got about 12000 km's on my solution.

    Simple compression fittings and hydraulic hoses. The hoses are a bit stiff though, makes it a little tricky in tight areas. Also, I didn't take the existing lines out to do this as they are a pain in the ass so I just cut them off right in the truck and put my new ones on. The steel tubes you see in the pic are from the last set I had replaced at a dealership.

    So far so good, no leaks, not even a slight wet spot on any of the fittings.

    I put some threadlocker on the fittings to help prevent them from coming loose. I also scrubbed the hoses out with a gun cleaning brush to help make sure there was no loose bits that were going into my transmission.

    In total, cost me about $90 for the 3 small hoses, because the compression fittings were about $13 each.

    I figure, if they work on combines and tractors and construction equipment, they will work on my pickup truck.





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  3. #3
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    Question

    This is new to me. Could someone expand on which Allisons are having cooling line problems and perhaps why?
    Bob
    2009 LTZ 3500 D/A ext-cab DRW
    1993 11' 3" Lance cabover camper

  4. #4
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    Thumbs up

    Nice Post and great pictures. We traded our 07 so I didn't have to do this. Our's was leaking just a little when we got rid of it though. We traded it for a 2011, I hope they changed up the design of the hoses on the new one's?
    0000000

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bobt View Post
    Could someone expand on which Allisons are having cooling line problems
    Not sure how wide spread the problem, but I think it affects all the '06 and '07 trucks, at least. My second set has started leaking.

    and perhaps why?
    Because they are junk...

    gophergunner - Are the lines steel or aluminum? If aluminum, I'd be concerned the compression fittings would work loose over time.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    Are the lines steel or aluminum?
    Never mind. I see we covered that a while back....

    Where did you find the compression fittings? Do they have a special name? How do they seal to the hoses, or are the hose fittings part of the compression fitting?

    TIA
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  7. #7
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    Default

    I got the hoses made up at the local Bumper to Bumper parts store in town.

    Not sure if the fittings have any special name to them, and the compression fittings themselves are what is actually crimped onto the hydraulic hoses. So if you screw one up or lose a piece, you just have to buy a new fitting to rob the pieces from, or if you screw it up badly enough you need a new hose assembly.

    Swagelok makes all sorts of stainless steel fittings for tubing and pipe. They aren't cheap but they are reliable and rated for higher pressures than the average hydraulic hose/fitting. They would also make some fittins that are compression on one end for the tubing, and perhaps a JIC or pipe thread on the other end so you can make up a hose thats seperate of the compression fittings.

    And as far as I remember, the tubing is steel Perhaps aluminized or some sort of stainless as they aren't rusting. But magnets stick to them so I know they aren't aluminum.
    2011 VW Jetta TDI, pretty well loaded without leather.
    2006 GMC Sierra D-max, 4x4, 4 door, bumper, winch, Espar heater, and the HID lights are a nice touch too.....
    1986 GMC 3500, 454 on propane, 4 speed, 4x4, crew cab dually......the welding truck
    1984 Toyota 4x4 pickup, 4.3 V6, 700R4, Toyota t-case.......transforming into 4x4 cage buggy

  8. #8
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    OK, I found the exact fitting. It's made by Eaton and has the number 700 on it, although that may mean nothing. The tubing end it 5/8" (OD) but the hose is only 1/2" (ID). Has anyone cut the hose to determine the ID of the factory part? I'm guessing from the way it is constructed, it is 5/8". Anyone have a feel for whether or not it would make a difference? (Or is the Eaton part available with a 5/8" hose? The shop I spoke to only had dies to crimp up to 1/2".)
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  9. #9
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    OK, the manual stresses that the lock clips must be replaced when the lines are replaced. However, it seems the only way to get them is to buy the fittings complete. They cost more than the lines! And, what's the point o having these "quick connect" fittings if the fittings must be replaced every time they are disconnected?

    Is it safe to reuse them? Does any one know where I can get just the clips?

    TIA
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  10. #10
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    Default

    Two days ago I was changing the engine oil & filter as well as the spin on the Allison filter on my 2003 Sierra at my new house on my nice clean driveway. I was very careful not to spill a drop of oil. After moving the pickup I had a six inch diameter oil ring on the ground, it was trans fluid. Upon further investigation it was coming from the trans cooler line and appeared to be coming form the crimp area on the hose. Had it fixed at the dealer waiting to go pick up. Service writer said it would be $360 and the tech broke the first part installing it and they had to keep the truck and have a new line over-nighted from the warehouse. So its not just the 2006's. Just hope this is a better hose than others have gotten?

    Matt
    mattb5150@hotmail.com

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    OK, the manual stresses that the lock clips must be replaced when the lines are replaced. However, it seems the only way to get them is to buy the fittings complete. They cost more than the lines! And, what's the point o having these "quick connect" fittings if the fittings must be replaced every time they are disconnected?

    Is it safe to reuse them? Does any one know where I can get just the clips?

    TIA
    I don't replace them and don't think many people do. They aren't high stress and the nylon capture ring keeps them locked.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennedy View Post
    I don't replace them and don't think many people do. They aren't high stress and the nylon capture ring keeps them locked.
    Thanks, John. I was thinking along the same lines, but I wanted to see if anyone else had tried it.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

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