Running rough!

[w6bauer]

I just picked up a new toy. 92 chevy k2500 with 8' western plow, 136k on the clock. Truck was not running when i bought it for $1400. Kid i got it from said he had installed new HO injectors 10,000 miles ago and had just installed a reman mechanical injection pump. When he did the pump it never ran since then.

Valley was filled with diesel and two injectors were leaking down on exhaust manifold.

I pulled intake and found 4 lines finger tight to pump were leaky. Tightened the lines, reinstalled intake and tightened leaky injectors. I bled lines at each injector and the truck fired up.

Runs extremely rough and smokes black something fierce.

Timing marks are dead on on the ip to cover.

Ive never done a mechanical ip on one of these trucks before and my guess is the guy i got it from had not either.

Can someone tell me where to start. I feel like its a few teeth off. Are there reference marks on gears? Do i set cyl 1 at tdc on compression and go from there?

Any pointers would be appreciated.


Will

[twaddle]

I would bet some of the fuel injection pipes (at least two) are connected to the wrong connectors on the injection pump. Can be easy to do if whoever changed the pump hasn't had a manual to go by or did not take a note of what went where before the replacement injection pump was installed.

Do a search for correct fuel injection pipe installation for your engine here on the Dieselpage.

If it is not the injection pipes on wrong then it might need the fuel injection timing rechecked.

Good luck

Jim

[w6bauer]

I did verify injector lines were running to correct cylinders when i had intake off.

I have all data on my computer and it doesnt give me procedure for setting the ip in time with engine.

[mrwilecoyote]

Black or dark grey ? At idle or driving ?
Does it look like this ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWRQp...Ry3Iw&index=10

[mrwilecoyote]

The PO could have spun the IP gear on the camshaft. I'm told that can happen from bumping the engine around with the key. I have also seen the cam bolt come loose. That may have been his initial problem and he replaced the IP thinking it was that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35HG2...Ry3Iw&index=11

[mrwilecoyote]

This was what happened to me. Drove me nuts.

[w6bauer]

It blows a dark grey smoke at idle. I have not driven the truck, it runs horribly. Engine wants to jump out from under the hood. Its definitely not in time. From what I understand there is not really anything special I need to do when installing new IP just take the old one out and throw a new one in and line up the marks on pump and cover and she should roll out with maybe some minor tweaking of pump with engine running.

I guess I am going to have to dig a bit deeper into this old hog. I will be pulling the front of the motor down this morning to get a good look at the gears. Hope its nothing too serious.

Ive read about people having broken cranks and the truck still runs. keeping my fingers crossed. If it is something more serious I think I can still part the truck and plow out for more than the 1400 I have in it.

[w6bauer]

If the truck has a bad return line would this put air back into the system and cause the truck to run rough?

On passenger side where return line from front injector goes into steel line it looks like a T, or another port for a line to plug into. would this suck air and screw the system up?

All of the return lines between injectors look like they have seen better days and are loose on the injector fittings.

Thanks for any insight.

Will

[w6bauer]

Replaced 3 return lines between injectors and fired truck up. She started knocking and before I could get back around in cab she gave one last loud bang and quit. Engine appears to be locked! Cannot turn with breaker bar with 2ft cheater. Out she will come so I can tear into it and see what the real problem was when PO decided it was time to let her go.

[mrwilecoyote]

that does not sound good.
Pull the timing case cover first. If the crank broke you would be able to turn it a little then stop dead...Ask me how I know.

[mrwilecoyote]

Did you try turning it backwards ?

[w6bauer]

Ive had a little time between working on 2 ford diesels to pull the motor out of the 93. Got her on the stand and took the oil pan off to find a rod bearing cap and two nuts laying in the oil pan from cyl 6. cyl 5 rod bearings gone, shredded and in oil pickup tube. Pulled the main caps and found all the bearings forward of the mucked up rods spun.

The #6 rod let loose and crashed into the bottom of cylinder bore taking out a nickel sized chunk, and the #5 rod looks to have contacted the bottom of its bore as well with a dime sized piece missing there. No cracking up the bore.

I found a new set of felpro head gaskets and ARP head studs up top, and the main and rod caps were all marked as though someone had gone through this engine before.

Crank is tore up where the rods let loose. Cam avoided damage but bearings are definitely gone.

Looking for some input as to what I should do.

Im trying to do this on a very tight budget...I cant find a used motor with less than 200k on it for the price ive got to pay. Ive got more time than money here and Im not trying to build a beast.

My machine shop said they install sleeves for $50 per hole and I can get sleeves for $13 a piece.

I need 2 pistons for sure, the bottom of #6 is bent and #5 is cracked at wrist pin.

2 new rods for sure.

I found a Guy with brand new Scat crank for $339

I found pistons but have some ???????s. Im looking at the northern auto parts web site and see they have a cast piston at $85 a pop then they have Clevite pistons at less than $60. Whats the deal there and which ones should I use?

Should I sleeve all the cyls or can i get away with just the 2?

Please give me some pointers and advise. This is the first 6.5 Ive tore this far into. I looking to make it run again and be reliable but im not trying to spend a fortune. As much as id like to do a complete rebuild i just cannot afford it at this time.


Thanks

WIll