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View Full Version : Front rotors- what's the difference?



Tony J.
03-07-2004, 17:49
So, I need new rotors I just noticed. Grooved and looking terrible. My local parts store has them in stock, ranging in price from $28 each to $110 each. They weigh the same, and the warranty is the same. What on earth could the major difference be? I've bought cheap ones before for other vehicles, and didn't have any problems. Anybody out there KNOW what the deal is?

Kidd
03-07-2004, 18:05
My first guess would be they are made of different materials. What does the warranty cover? :confused:
KD

pannhead
03-07-2004, 18:38
my first time i got the cheap ones and they warped in about 3 months (made in asia somewhere :mad: )...i got the cross-drilled etc and have been good since....i learned that brakes are not the place to get cheap ;)

Dvldog 8793
03-08-2004, 05:23
It's been my experience that the cheaper rotors tend to warp faster and easier. Also the finish is not as true(run-out). Warrenties are great but they don't consider your time. What good is it if you have a life time warrenty and have to replace your rotors once a year? Even if the parts are free you have to value your time. I've had cheap made in china rotors be warp right out of the box I found it out before I was done and returned them. Also these were on my wifes car, if they would have been on my 1ton I REALLY would have been mad! :D :mad: Pressed in studs and all.
IMHO, on a Ford Escort that gets drove for 5000miles a year cheapies are fine, on my 1ton Chevy I got the best quality parts I could find. Stopping a 8000lb truck is no easy task!
I think most of the time you get what you pay for.
L8r
Conley

Tony J.
03-08-2004, 08:50
So, how hard is it to pull the front rotors on one of these hubless 4wd's? I haven't done this on one of these newer trucks. I did them on my old Jimmy, and had to remove/disassemble the locking hub system. Is this truck easier or harder to pull the front rotors off of? I'm debating doing it myself or having it done at this point... THIS IS $$$ I WANTED TO SPEND ON OTHER THINGS! ;)

Dvldog 8793
03-08-2004, 10:41
What year/size/style is your truck?
I just finished doing this on mine so it is still fairly fresh in my mind. I don't think the scabs have healed yet! :D

Dvldog 8793
03-08-2004, 13:01
Sorry Tony, I forgot you listed what your truck was in another post.
If your truck is single rear wheels then it isn't too hard to do the discs if your have air tools. I'm not sure how hard it is for the dually model.
For the singles, the only trick is getting the lug studs out intact. When I did mine I replaced all the studs but that was fairly expensive and probably not needed. The lug studs are pressed into the rotor and have to pressed out(I "pressed" mine out with a hammer :D ) To put them back in I used an lod lug nut upside down and a washer with my impact gun. I suppose you could do it with a ratchet if you were really having a good day. Do a search on Front brakes and you should come up with some of my posts.
Have fun.
Semper Fi
L8r
Conley

tom.mcinerney
03-08-2004, 18:54
I bought new rotors from NAPA , as i've learned to trust them. But i noticed they were made in China. I also got new lugs from NAPA, and noticed that they were very poorly stamped [splines]; now i'm concerned about the rotors, too.
I think the OEM and high-end domestic specialists have best quality.
On mine, not too hard to remove the hub (no need puller), but a lot of dismantling to get to that point....

pannhead
03-08-2004, 19:14
tom mac...oh no :( !!! you happen to have the exact napa rotors that warped on me...you may experience the lesson i learned...hopefully not,good luck ;)

DickWells
03-08-2004, 19:59
Tony J.:
FWIW, I had to put new rotors on my Sub. 2500 - 4x4 about 5 years ago. I had turned the old one's, and got about 3K on them, when one long downhill run (empty/solo) to a stop sign and then a quick cool-down warped them.
I put on $40.oo rotors from Advance Parts with Ferrodo pads. I had been quoted from $70 to $100 at several other places at the time. The $40 rotors are Raybestos, made in China. I thought at the time, that I was asking for trouble. But, that was about 80K miles ago, and I still have no warpage. Just lucky? I don't know. I have a light foot on both the accel. and brake pedals, but I don't baby the Sub. that much. Most of my mileage is towing, and I've descended a lot of western mountains, too.
I have a new set of Federal Mogul (sp?) pads in now, because I couldn't get the Ferrodo's. Just 15K on those now, but they are smooth.
Don't know, either, if I'm ready to recommend the cheep rotors, but they sure have worked for me. I don't relish the idea of changing rotors very often. 2500 - 4x4 is a bear to change. You have to drive out the lugs to get the rotor off. This is after you pull the whole hub assembly.
Lots of luck.
Dick

Beedee
03-09-2004, 01:40
My experiance has been that the cheaper "Off Shore" rotors and brake parts have been total F@#$&*g crap. Any time I have used a set I have been sorry. The last set I use were for my Geo Metro got about a 1000 Kilometers before they warped, car only weighs about as much as the spare tire on my truck. Now if I can't find a set of rotors made in North America, that would be USA or Canada, not Mexico, I won't buy them, I'll go to the dealer first and buy OEM. My family and friends are to important to me to run cheap off shore crap.
Do I sound bitter? Not me, just hate doing the same job twice. tongue.gif

tanker
03-09-2004, 02:32
Cheap or lower costs, sometimes means something. I have cross-drilled and vented rotors for about 5 years without a problem, replaced pads with out turning them, just cleaned the rust ring on the outer side. Suburbans have lousy brakes to begin with, and I need all the stopping power I can get.
What cause them to warp? :rolleyes: Going down a hill and getting them hot, then keeping your foot on the brake at the stop. This causes the rotor to cool down, except at the pad contact area. If at all possible release the brakes and slightly roll to allow cooling all around the rotor. (from a brake guy) smile.gif

Bobbie Martin
03-09-2004, 05:04
I did the brakes on our Suburban a couple of months ago. I also went to NAPA and the guy brought out the Made in China rotors. I passed on those and went to Pep Boys where I bought a set of Raybestos PG Plus rotors. According to their web page (http://www.raybestos.com/usa/rotors.htm), they have vehicle specific Metallurgy and vane configurations, plus they are made in the USA. I also bought a set of wheel bearings (had to search to find good ones of those as well). When I went to install everything, I looked in my new "made in USA" rotors and was happy to see the bearing races were already installed - with "Made in China" prominently displayed on the races!

damork
03-09-2004, 12:56
I installed Powerslot rotors, cost was about $93 each, they have slots on them. Used Hawk Superduty pads, been on it for 6 months and has the best stopping power I've ever had. Quality seems to be superb for me. I hear Performance Friction pads work well also (Z rated). I returned a pair of Raybestos rotors as they seemed to really have poor quality in the pair I got.

BUZZ
03-09-2004, 14:46
I am near rotor replacement. I recently installed Power Stop slotted rotors on my Factory Five Cobra replica. Best brakes on this car yet. My burb will get the same.
Buzz

JohnC
03-11-2004, 10:01
On my LD 2500 the original pads lasted about 30K miles. when I changed them I had to turn the rotors. One was badly warped but hadn't really felt warped. 30K later same thing. Got Chinese rotors from autozone and Performance Friction pads. 25K miles later I couldn't stand the thumping any more. Pads 20% worn, rotors shot. This time I bought Bendix pad$ and rotor$. 30K later I can feel the thump again...

On the HD 2500 the original brakes were still going strong at 50K when the wreck happened...

[ 03-14-2004, 11:50 AM: Message edited by: JohnC ]

Dvldog 8793
03-11-2004, 13:00
I don't know about the heavy duty double sided rotors on our trucks but on small passenger cars if the lugs are not torqued properly it will warp the rotors. I would think with 8 lugs and the design of the front brakes/hub that it wouldn't be possibly but you never know, Murphy and all! tongue.gif
L8r
Conley

JohnC
03-12-2004, 10:46
I'm an aircraft mechanic. I use a torque wrench! :D

Actually, the LD 2500s are 6 lug. The disks are this cheesy composite construction, which I suspect is a contributory factor. Anyone know where I can get some "real" disks?

taznj63
03-14-2004, 06:44
Thanks for the info guys on the rotors and the brakes. For ease of finding parts here is the web site I found that has these parts.
http://www.raceshopper.com/powerslot_rotors.shtml

damork
03-16-2004, 07:19
taznj63
Beware of that website! I ordered my first set of Powerslots from them and to make a long story short, they sent me a mismatched set. Apparently there was a changed in production at one point and I got two rotors that looked different. When I tried contacting them they didn't want to know me. They ship from warehouses all over the place. This was the second time I tried ordering from them but there won't be a third.

I returned them which was a nightmare. I had a rough time contacting anyone there, but finally got an RMA number. In the end, a credit card dispute was the only way I got credit for the return.

Here is where I got great service:

www.brakewarehouse.com (http://www.brakewarehouse.com)

I had the rotors drop shipped from the factory. I simply told them I wouldn't accept anything but a matched set and that was no problem. They always drop ship from the factory, and they arrived in beautiful shape.

JohnC:
I think you'd like the Powerslots. They are fully turned, really beefy construction. Even the hub is not the composite that comes fromt he factory, it is all machined. I understand Powerslots are bought from Brembo then Cadmium treated. I didn't know at the time, but I could have bolted on 3/4 ton calipers onto my 1/2 ton for more stopping power, but the Hawk Pads on these rotors is one amazing upgrade.

Dvldog 8793
03-16-2004, 10:14
Damork-
I had the exact same problem with brakewarehouse.
I got two different rotors and both of them were wrong! :mad: They really worked with me to make it right, had the right rotors drop shipped from the factory in two days! :D Also sent shipping labels credited my card before they recieved the wrong rotors back. Besides the initial FUBAR, they really did a good job. My rotors are Powerstop cross drilled and are VERY good.
I also went with all SS lines and the HD pads.
L8r

JohnC
03-18-2004, 10:17
Originally posted by damork:
JohnC:
I think you'd like the Powerslots. They are fully turned, really beefy construction. Even the hub is not the composite that comes fromt he factory, it is all machined.... Interesting. I emailed their technical department and asked if the disks for my truck were composite like the OEM ones or not. Their response was "To answer your question, yes everything is OEM nothing is customized." I interpreted the reply to indicate that they used OEM rotors and cut the slots themselves.

taznj63
03-18-2004, 19:13
Originally posted by damork:
taznj63
Beware of that website! I ordered my first set of Powerslots from them and to make a long story short, they sent me a mismatched set. Apparently there was a changed in production at one point and I got two rotors that looked different. When I tried contacting them they didn't want to know me. They ship from warehouses all over the place. This was the second time I tried ordering from them but there won't be a third.

I returned them which was a nightmare. I had a rough time contacting anyone there, but finally got an RMA number. In the end, a credit card dispute was the only way I got credit for the return.

Here is where I got great service:

www.brakewarehouse.com (http://www.brakewarehouse.com)

I had the rotors drop shipped from the factory. I simply told them I wouldn't accept anything but a matched set and that was no problem. They always drop ship from the factory, and they arrived in beautiful shape.

JohnC:
I think you'd like the Powerslots. They are fully turned, really beefy construction. Even the hub is not the composite that comes fromt he factory, it is all machined. I understand Powerslots are bought from Brembo then Cadmium treated. I didn't know at the time, but I could have bolted on 3/4 ton calipers onto my 1/2 ton for more stopping power, but the Hawk Pads on these rotors is one amazing upgrade. Thanks for the 411 Damork...
I did order a set of these powerslot rotors and hawk pads but not from that site.
I found a better site and they have much better pricing for rotors and hawk pads plus give 25% off shipping for being a TheDieselPage member... :D

the web site for those who are interested is:
http://www.truckperformance.com
Called the guy, very nice and helpful as I asked for items for my truck as well as my Suburban. Very patient to look up parts & prices.
Order is even being sent out on same day of order!

I will update back when items recieved and installed...

tom.mcinerney
03-18-2004, 21:41
I had good experience with Truckperformance.com too. They were recommended as distributor by PermaCool.

dstoops
03-19-2004, 20:44
I just installed the powerslot rotors and new pads from tirerack.com. Good prices and great service. We thought we had a problem with the pads and they offered to send another set to me "next day air"!!!!!As it turned out that wasn't necessary but I am impressed! There are those who say that the cross-drilled rotors will crack between the holes so I went with the rotors that were slotted only. BTW the brake performance improved greatly.

dstoops
03-19-2004, 20:47
I just installed the powerslot rotors and new pads from tirerack.com. Good prices and great service. We thought we had a problem with the pads and they offered to send another set to me "next day air"!!!!!As it turned out that wasn't necessary but I am impressed! There are those who say that the cross-drilled rotors will crack between the holes so I went with the rotors that were slotted only. BTW the brake performance improved greatly.

NH2112
03-21-2004, 13:29
The last complete brake job (rotors, drums, wheel cyls, pads, shoes, hardware, hoses - everything but calipers, which I ended up replacing within a year) I did was on my 85 K10 in April or May of 99 and I used Raybestos & Wagner parts throughout. I had put about 75K miles on without having to replace anything, when I decided to finally take my old rusty backing plates off and put on the new ones I'd had sitting around for a couple years. I did end up putting new shoes on at the same time (late 2001 I guess) but it wasn't necessary as the old ones still had half their lining left - I did it simply because I had them. So in my experience (this truck and several others) you can't go wrong with Raybestos or Wagner brake parts, regardless of where they're made.