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TraceF
12-26-2002, 11:18
Sorry if this is redundant- I searched but could only find info on the 6.5.

Is there info on installing the sensors for the pyrometer and boost sensors?

What I have read gives me concerns about drill shavings possibly going into the turbo.

Thanks in advance.

More Power
12-26-2002, 12:15
http://www.thedieselpage.com/back02.htm

MP

TraceF
12-26-2002, 12:17
Muchas gracias!

TraceF
12-26-2002, 12:21
As a member can I access the article or do I need to buy the book?

dieselburb
12-26-2002, 12:35
TraceF, I too had worries about drilling the manifold while it was on the truck. I pulled it off in about 25 minutes including the time to take out the fender well cover. JK informed me that the gaskets are reusable and I found all the bolts are easy to get except the elbow bolt next to the block (assuming you are removing the passenger side manifold). Just a crows foot and a little elbow grease and it'll come right off.
I was also very glad I did this because my brand new very sharp 1/4" drill bit broke just as it broke through the inner wall of the manifold. TAKE THE TIME TO REMOVE THE MANIFOLD!
If you have the "bad luck curse" (old ladies driving in the left lane, no one walking on the sidewalk except in front of the driveway you want to enter, and the guy's using a walker and falls down knocking himself out on the mailbox) please take the LITTLE extra time to remove the manifold for drilling, it's not hard and you don't have to deal with hot exhaust parts and you can put the hole exactly where you want it, blah, blah blah.
Anyway, JK, Mackin' and a couple other guys have the torque spec's for all involved bolts and nuts and you'll feel much better knowing there's no chance of any shavings. Good luck

Applecore
12-26-2002, 13:11
Turbo boost info - I am having the boost/egt gauges installed tomorrow - here in Minnesota. I am reading from the instruction manual on installation. " 1. First don't remove anything to determine the best position for the sensor so that it can be installed without interfering withy any engine components. If possible choose a relatively flat part of the inlet manifold. 2. remove the inlet manifold. This is recommended as it removes the possibility of swarf (metal filings - I had to go to the dictionary for that one) entering the engine.
I bought my SPA digital boost with Pyro gauges from Kennedy Diesel (www.kennedydiesel.com). My installer also asked that I order "Auto Meter Angle Rings" as the guages are to be installed in the little "cubby hole" in my Dmax dash nest to the heater controls. The digital readouts are best seen if they are angled toward the driver. These I ordered from http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=23956 However on my invoice is gives the part number ATM2234. They come in a shrink wrap with three rings cost 6.95 handling charge 7.95 (bummer).

In another thread I have read that if you don't take the exhaust manifold off when drilling and tapping the threads for the egt sensor, you should keep the engine running so the "swarf" is blown out and doesn't get inside the manifold.

More Power
12-26-2002, 13:53
The "Got Gauges" article, available now in the 2002 Feature Articles volume, is 7 pages long and contains 18 bright/clear images and clear/concise text, illustrating every step of the process.

This particluar article was available online for about 8 months, but now is part of the 2002 Volume. Your support helps make these sorts of articles possible.

MP

TraceF
12-26-2002, 14:59
Thanks everyone-

I ordered an exhaust system today so I may pull the manifold off when I put the system on. I'm a DMax newbie but by no means a wrench newbie.

Applecore- the 3 angled rings- are they 3 different angles or 3 of the same? What will you use to fill the cubby and install the guage (and ring) in?

Trying to figure out how to get me a picture page. Anyone give me a link to the instructions on this?

Applecore
12-26-2002, 18:56
The three rings are the same
The person who is installing the guages is making what it takes to fit in the cuddy

I'm not sure if the pictures you are looking for, but go to
www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc

there are pictures of installing the sensor in the manifold.

afp
12-26-2002, 20:37
I followed MPs directions on the pyrometer, but put the boost gauge in the wastegate line. Everything works great. I too was worried about doing the hot drill/tap thing, but I worried in vain. The exhausr does an exceptional job of blowing out the chips. They blew into my face, went down my shirt, etc.

Blaine

TooMuchMuscle
12-30-2002, 20:14
What are the torq recomendations for the passenger side manifold?

mackin
12-30-2002, 20:18
Tomuch

Exhaust manifold bolt/nut 28 ft.lb
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts 71 in.lb

MAC

I was going to be a smart A$$ and say same as drivers side ...LOL tongue.gif

[ 12-30-2002: Message edited by: mackin ]</p>

TooMuchMuscle
12-31-2002, 11:51
THANKS MACKIN!!!

TraceF
01-03-2003, 15:21
Applecore- I am curious to know how your gauge install came out.

Any pictures?

TooMuchMuscle
01-03-2003, 16:43
Before I pulled of my exhaust manifold (to drill and tap), I called my local dealer and asked them to do the labor for me. I brought my truck to them, they pulled the passenger side manifold off, I picked it up then drilled and tapped it and brought it back to them to put the manifold back on. This worked great for me, cause now I have a manifold that is still covered under warranty. Talk to your local dealer, some are willing to help. Time paid:1.6 hours =$95.00

mtomac
01-03-2003, 16:50
I didn't have any problems drilling & tapping the PS manifold with engine running. A big clear face shield keeps the chips out of your face too.